Hey,
I picked up a Pertronix 2 (#91284) and a Flamethrower 2 coil. In regards to the resister block, what's the simplest way to wire everything so that it retains a stock appearance?
Original Post
Replies sorted oldest to newest
Off subject pm me Jimmy your in Tampa?
What you are asking is not simple. You need to eliminate any resistance in the feed wire to the PII. It and the coil require the full +12V and associated current to operate. The short answer is to find some way to bypass the factory resister while still appearing like the factory spade connectors are still attached. You could leave all that in place and run a new wire in parallel with that circuit that you hide. However if I remember correctly the factory resistance is split between the feed (+) side and the tach (-) side, so you would still see half the resistance in the circuit if you just ran one wire. Concealing two wires gets to be even more involved.
I would suggest just leaving the resistor in place, disconnecting it and using spade adapters with the exiting wires to bypass it. This would not damage the factory wires or add any non-factory wires. Then you can always reconnect it and put the points and factory coil back when you want to show or sell it.
I would suggest just leaving the resistor in place, disconnecting it and using spade adapters with the exiting wires to bypass it. This would not damage the factory wires or add any non-factory wires. Then you can always reconnect it and put the points and factory coil back when you want to show or sell it.
A better and much simpler way to go is to use a Ford electronic distributor. Use it with a small cap and use the Pantera Electronics engine controller (brain) and a blaster coil.
The tack will work with it and it will make it easier to start the car hot because it retards the initial advance at start up.
These thing virtually never fail and even if they did you can get a replacement at virtually any parts store.
It also eliminates the possibility that you will cook the "can" coil because you left the ignition on working on the car, without the engine running.
There are a lot of little things that are unique to the Pantera. The ignition wiring/tach is one of them.
You can go with another aftermarket ignition if you insist, but you most likely will be sorry that you did.
What works on the Mustang or other Ford cars doesn't necessarily apply itself easily to the Pantera.
That's why the Pantera Electronics Engine Controller was designed and built.
The tack will work with it and it will make it easier to start the car hot because it retards the initial advance at start up.
These thing virtually never fail and even if they did you can get a replacement at virtually any parts store.
It also eliminates the possibility that you will cook the "can" coil because you left the ignition on working on the car, without the engine running.
There are a lot of little things that are unique to the Pantera. The ignition wiring/tach is one of them.
You can go with another aftermarket ignition if you insist, but you most likely will be sorry that you did.
What works on the Mustang or other Ford cars doesn't necessarily apply itself easily to the Pantera.
That's why the Pantera Electronics Engine Controller was designed and built.
Thanks. I'm guessing no one has tried this. Anyone used the Pertronix 2 in general successfully? I've used it on Mustangs. Any photos of your install?
I have one in my 68 GT350. Very simple installation. Not so in the Pantera.
I use a PII for a year with the factory resistance on my 69 mach1 without problem. I checked before I bought it and it does not NEED 12V according to the manufacturer but it is preferable. No idea about how that will apply to a Pantera though.
I don't understand why some think the Pantera is so different from a Mustang or any other Ford that has a 351C installed. This IMO is not the case. An ignition system in a Pantera is no different than an ignition system in a Mustang as far as the installation requirements.
quote:Originally posted by ZR1 Pantera:
I don't understand why some think the Pantera is so different from a Mustang or any other Ford that has a 351C installed. This IMO is not the case. An ignition system in a Pantera is no different than an ignition system in a Mustang as far as the installation requirements.
It isn't. In fact the thing should install with no problemo. It didn't though.
My tach should have worked with the MSD. It didn't though.
Something about the Italians paying homage to dead saints?
It's weird.
quote:Something about the Italians paying homage to dead saints?
It's weird.
LOL...
quote:Originally posted by ZR1 Pantera:
I don't understand why some think the Pantera is so different from a Mustang or any other Ford that has a 351C installed. This IMO is not the case. An ignition system in a Pantera is no different than an ignition system in a Mustang as far as the installation requirements.
I didn't really think they were any different, I just usually wait for my third or fourth post before I start calling people stupid.
quote:I didn't really think they were any different, I just usually wait for my third or fourth post before I start calling people stupid. Wink
LOL... that was a good line! Welcome to the board!
I have run the Pertronix kit and coil for 5 years. Easy to install - just follow the directions. Needs 12v source. Resistor block is not required. Tach has nothing to do with it.
What's the issue we are solving here?
What's the issue we are solving here?
quote:Originally posted by Panterapatt:
I have run the Pertronix kit and coil for 5 years. Easy to install - just follow the directions. Needs 12v source. Resistor block is not required. Tach has nothing to do with it.
What's the issue we are solving here?
You did not use the red or blue wires from the resistor block? This didn't affect your tach? Trying to make it appear as stock as possible.
If you are determined to keep the ballast resistor and not bypass it, then I would suggest you go with a PI. They are a lot less prone to problems when running off less than 12v, and like the PII, they do not affect the tach operation. You will have to go with a lower output coil because a PI will not switch the high current level of a PII.
Back to my suggestion about bypassing the ballast resistor. I would not recommend running the PII level of bypassed current through the existing ignition circuit and switch if possible. You could hide a relay connected to the battery post on the starter solenoid and then use the ignition switch / ballast connections to operate the relay. This would un-load the ignition circuit and provide the PII the full voltage and current is needs operate under all conditions. You would then have a stock looking resistor and with wires, but the benefit of a modern ignition.
As far as differences between Mustang and Pantera ignition circuits, the Mustang did not use a ballast resistor. Instead it used a resistive wire like the latter Panteras. Physically different but electrically the same. The Tachs however are very different. The Mustang uses a current sensing tach in series with the ignition feed and is very sensitive to current changes with after market ignitions. The Pantera's Tach is Voltage sensing (more common) in parallel with the ignition circuit and is not upset, or worse destroyed, by more current passing through the coil.
Back to my suggestion about bypassing the ballast resistor. I would not recommend running the PII level of bypassed current through the existing ignition circuit and switch if possible. You could hide a relay connected to the battery post on the starter solenoid and then use the ignition switch / ballast connections to operate the relay. This would un-load the ignition circuit and provide the PII the full voltage and current is needs operate under all conditions. You would then have a stock looking resistor and with wires, but the benefit of a modern ignition.
As far as differences between Mustang and Pantera ignition circuits, the Mustang did not use a ballast resistor. Instead it used a resistive wire like the latter Panteras. Physically different but electrically the same. The Tachs however are very different. The Mustang uses a current sensing tach in series with the ignition feed and is very sensitive to current changes with after market ignitions. The Pantera's Tach is Voltage sensing (more common) in parallel with the ignition circuit and is not upset, or worse destroyed, by more current passing through the coil.
I ran a 12v source directly to the pertronix. stock appearance was irrelevant to me. sorry
I'm running a Petronix 2 setup and its great. Just by-passed the resistor.
you need to purchase a tach adap from MSD it takes your u readable signal to your stock tack and makes it readable