#1. Do I need lifter bore bushings and cam restrictors?
Yes - tappet bore bushings with 0.060 orifices, not only fix the lubrication, they hot rod the lubrication. This is in terms of supplying oil to the reciprocating assembly. Two other steps include:
(1) Augment the factory oil pan with a windage tray
(2) Install the Q code oil pump pick-up.
Those steps supply all the oil possible to the main bearings. Once you've accomplished that you still have to take additional measures to get that oil to the rod bearings. Those additional measures include:
(1) Heavy duty, fully grooved main bearings with performance clearances. Bearings: Clevite #MS1010HG or #MS1010VG. Clearances:0.0025 – 0.0032
(2) Use Valvoline VR1 10W30 oil, no thinner viscosity (due to the fully grooved brgs).
(3) Heavy duty rod bearings with performance clearances. Bearings for 351C rods: Clevite #CB927. Clearances: 0.0022 – 0.0028.
(4) Rod side gap clearances set at 0.018 to 0.022.
I consider cam bearing restrictors a necessity only if you plan on a rev limit higher than 6200 rpm. I consider them a good idea but not a necessity up to 6200 rpm. The most important cam bearing to restrict is number 1.
But Warning. If you install a cam with more lift than 0.530 valve lift the peak horsepower will occur above 6200 rpm, i.e. above the rev limit. That is the nature of 4V heads. A 4V engine project becomes more expensive above 0.530 lift (about 410 horsepower).
#2. Do I still use a high volume oil pump?
Not if you install tappet bore bushings.
#3. Anybody have any recommendations for a good street roller cam?
The Crane HR216, but it has more than 0.530 lift. I can spec a bit better cam with lift limited to 0.530. About 410 horsepower verses 440 horsepower with the HR216 cam.
Roller cams are also expensive $$$. I can spec an equally durable and strong running flat tappet cam for you that would be easier on the budget.
#4. I have an edlebrock 4v intake on it right now ...
#5. If the crank is bad (cant be turned anymore) I might look into a scat stroker kit, not sure though, the crank was 10/10 and the block is not even 30 over yet, so not sure if I want to bore it if I don't need to (kit comes with 30 over pistons).
Used oem cranks can be found on eBay for reasonable prices, they are way cheaper than a stroker kit. When any crank is machined make sure to check the quality of that machine work for taper and roundness.
When the journals of a nodular iron crank (like the oem crank) are ground they must be ground with the crank turning in a specific direction, the crank MUST be polished afterwards, again with the crank and polishing equipment turning in very specific directions. If this isn't done correctly the grain of the nodular iron will be "raised" rather than "laid down" and it will abrade the bearings as the crankshaft turns; that is almost certainly why the bearings wore so quickly after the last rebuild. It was the machinist's fault, not the fault of bad bearings.
If you're going to get serious about a stroker crank, limit it to 3.75 stroke, 6.00 length rods, and custom pistons with full round skirts and 1.32 pin height. Spend the extra money having the assembly spin balanced (dynamic balancing).
If you're going to install rods with floating pins the cylinders should be re-bored and indexed to the crankshaft journals. This will prevent the possibility of the wrist pins hammering out their locks and gouging a cylinder wall.
#6. I have to make the Mach1 right, my dad bought the car brand new in 71, hes only 1.5 years away from being 70, want to finish it for him.
Well get with it!