Today I had time to go out in the garage and sit with a beer. That never happened though, I felt at urge to assemble something. With not much light or room I had to pick what to install, but here's the side marker installed.
Notice how when the paint is new, the rest of the car looks old and dirty. Which it is!
Some more assembly today. The threads in the bolt holes where painted hadn't been masked, so I'm rethreading them, bolts won't go in. I think I got a thick layer for my money...
Plan is today to get it drive-able, let it rest for a week more, and then on Saturday move it from the small heated garage to the bigger unheated garage where I can work on it. Unfortunately the weather is great, that means fixing the boat which is outside...
Plan is today to get it drive-able, let it rest for a week more, and then on Saturday move it from the small heated garage to the bigger unheated garage where I can work on it. Unfortunately the weather is great, that means fixing the boat which is outside...
quote:The threads in the bolt holes where painted hadn't been masked, so I'm rethreading them, bolts won't go in. I think I got a thick layer for my money.
I just dropped my 66 Mustang off at the body shop a couple weeks ago and they had a difficult time removing the wiper arms because the last time the car was painted (1982) the shop didn't bother to mask the wiper shafts and painted them, then apparently pounded the arms onto the painted shafts.
quote:then apparently pounded the arms onto the painted shafts.
The pleasure of seeing craftsmen work...
What a nightmare. I thought I was well prepared but...
Front lid: Easy to carry. I had spotted that the threads were full of paint and re-threaded them, otherwise we would still be standing there. Some alignment, 15 min job.
Rear lid: Thought that was going to be easy, because I left the hinges on, only took the pins out (replaced with a bolt and nut), so alignment should not be an issue with this heavy piece. But I forgot that all hinges had received paint, so the middle part on the lid didn't go down between the outer parts so the hole aligned. I'll spare you the whole story, but using a thin screwdriver, then thicker, then the bolt with the threads made pointy. And hammering on the lid with a sledgehammer on top of a cloth and a piece of wood. Not to my liking, but didn't damage the paint. It took us 45 minutes to get it properly seated so the bolts could go through, all that time my friend balanced the heavy lid. He looked tired afterwards
Doors: Balanced them on a chair and used the lift to align the car, went easier than expected. When I closed one door I heard the sound of something breaking and something dark the size of a nail fell to the floor. Fortunately it was only some of the hardened black plastic around the wires.
So we got all four on, without major damage. I still need to spend a few hours aligning everything.
I had of course taped all the edges first. When I then started to remove the tape I found out it was crap tape. It didn't come off in one piece, and some glue stayed on
Took me 2 hours to get 95% off, the remaining 5% can't be reached Cheap crap tape!
Enough for today...
Front lid: Easy to carry. I had spotted that the threads were full of paint and re-threaded them, otherwise we would still be standing there. Some alignment, 15 min job.
Rear lid: Thought that was going to be easy, because I left the hinges on, only took the pins out (replaced with a bolt and nut), so alignment should not be an issue with this heavy piece. But I forgot that all hinges had received paint, so the middle part on the lid didn't go down between the outer parts so the hole aligned. I'll spare you the whole story, but using a thin screwdriver, then thicker, then the bolt with the threads made pointy. And hammering on the lid with a sledgehammer on top of a cloth and a piece of wood. Not to my liking, but didn't damage the paint. It took us 45 minutes to get it properly seated so the bolts could go through, all that time my friend balanced the heavy lid. He looked tired afterwards
Doors: Balanced them on a chair and used the lift to align the car, went easier than expected. When I closed one door I heard the sound of something breaking and something dark the size of a nail fell to the floor. Fortunately it was only some of the hardened black plastic around the wires.
So we got all four on, without major damage. I still need to spend a few hours aligning everything.
I had of course taped all the edges first. When I then started to remove the tape I found out it was crap tape. It didn't come off in one piece, and some glue stayed on
Took me 2 hours to get 95% off, the remaining 5% can't be reached Cheap crap tape!Enough for today...
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Looking good Mikael!!!!!!!!!!!
Today I aligned the 4 add ons. Doors were easier than expected. Rear lid involved some welding because a thread on the lid starting turning. Front lid was a bit high on rear corners, so I stood up, feet in the cabin, body though windshield hole, wooden block under the middle part, and pushed down on the corners. Just a bit, did the trick. I wonder how the pros fix these kind of things...!
So Lexus freaks, bring on the small steel ball to check alignment! Well not quite, and I'm not too obsessed about things like that on a performance car. But it's better than before it was painted, and what's most important to me, the doors etc. are easy to close. I'm glad I spent the hours aligning when it was bare steel, and that I "insisted" the painter put the doors on when filling.
So Lexus freaks, bring on the small steel ball to check alignment! Well not quite, and I'm not too obsessed about things like that on a performance car. But it's better than before it was painted, and what's most important to me, the doors etc. are easy to close. I'm glad I spent the hours aligning when it was bare steel, and that I "insisted" the painter put the doors on when filling.
Hej Mikael,
its looking good! Sounds like it will be ready for the road rather soon - coinciding with an improvement in the weather I hope!
Cheers, Tim.
its looking good! Sounds like it will be ready for the road rather soon - coinciding with an improvement in the weather I hope!
Cheers, Tim.
Things are going slowly and I deliberately don't force it, better do it right than fast. I have April off from work, so then we'll see.
In the mean time just wanted to share this birthday "card" I got from my son, he knows what I like! The text is Danish, and even if you understand Danish, it won't make sense, it's inside-family jokes that I won't share here
I think he maybe mixed the 2 digits of my age? No, unfortunately not...
In the mean time just wanted to share this birthday "card" I got from my son, he knows what I like! The text is Danish, and even if you understand Danish, it won't make sense, it's inside-family jokes that I won't share here
I think he maybe mixed the 2 digits of my age? No, unfortunately not...
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Question for the community. The scripts on the rear, how should I fasten them? I've heard the following ideas, not sure which to use, don't want to break them, don't want them to ever fall off:
1. Orig clips (who has them?)
2. Make 3mm threads on the three pins, 3mm nuts
3. Put some body sealer in the three holes, gently push it in, will it stay
4. Double-sided tape for emblems, spend time cutting the not needed away
5. Any better ideas? Can't weld them in (just joking)
1. Orig clips (who has them?)
2. Make 3mm threads on the three pins, 3mm nuts
3. Put some body sealer in the three holes, gently push it in, will it stay
4. Double-sided tape for emblems, spend time cutting the not needed away
5. Any better ideas? Can't weld them in (just joking)
Someone recommended to me to apply a very small dab of clear silicone at each tab.
I believe threading them to be a better solution as you can snug them nicely against the body.
However, I saw the best solution in Reno at the Fun Rally. This individual had painted the script onto the rear panel and cleared over it. It looked original and avoided all the cleaning issues. I was so fond of it, I am painting the script on my current restoration.
However, I saw the best solution in Reno at the Fun Rally. This individual had painted the script onto the rear panel and cleared over it. It looked original and avoided all the cleaning issues. I was so fond of it, I am painting the script on my current restoration.
Mikael,
I cut a thread on mine. I cant remember what size but be very gentle it's only ally. The GTS badge is made from brass and is threaded originally. It's difficult to remove them so I use a soft brush with lots of soap when cleaning around them.
Johnny
I cut a thread on mine. I cant remember what size but be very gentle it's only ally. The GTS badge is made from brass and is threaded originally. It's difficult to remove them so I use a soft brush with lots of soap when cleaning around them.
Johnny
Was about to put front grill on, when I found this I've never seen before: Two sets of wires that had been cut and just left laying around. There are the following wires:
One set:
Thick yellow
Thick pink
Thick blue
Yellow
Red
Grey
Brown
Second set:
Grey
Brown
Black
They all seem to come from the main wiring in the right fender in front of the wheel. They were cut and taped off before it left the US to get to me. Judging by the state of the tape, decades ago.
Does anybody know why this was done, to live up to some US regulations? Amazing the car can drive with 10 cut wires. And everything works up front: Lights, blinkers, horn, fans.
One set:
Thick yellow
Thick pink
Thick blue
Yellow
Red
Grey
Brown
Second set:
Grey
Brown
Black
They all seem to come from the main wiring in the right fender in front of the wheel. They were cut and taped off before it left the US to get to me. Judging by the state of the tape, decades ago.
Does anybody know why this was done, to live up to some US regulations? Amazing the car can drive with 10 cut wires. And everything works up front: Lights, blinkers, horn, fans.
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Think I've found out, found a good wiring diagram. All colors seem to relate to fans and relays, and my fans have been moved to the rear of the radiator. So somebody probably just cut the wires and left them there. Currently I have one fan controlled by a thermostat and one controlled by a switch from inside, isn't that the way it was set up originally?
Never mind, now that I know what it is for and everything works, just rip it out!
Never mind, now that I know what it is for and everything works, just rip it out!
looks great!
quote:Currently I have one fan controlled by a thermostat and one controlled by a switch from inside, isn't that the way it was set up originally?
Yes, for the '71 cars only. The '72 and later cars used two thermo switches for the fans (one thermo switch per fan). That's why there is one switch on the center console ('72 and later cars) that isn't electrically connected to anything.
John
Time to install the glass, windshield and rear quarter window. Should be quite easy:
• No welding in the window frame
• Same windshield
• Best available new rubber
• Trim pieces sat almost perfectly before
Got some advice from Johnny Woods, before installing, lay the trim pieces on windshield, see fit. Didn’t fit very well in corners. Spent a few hours bending them with my hands, rubber hammer, wooden block etc. Got a great fit I thought.
Yesterday the window guy got here. Super guy, meticulous and interested in doing a good job. BTW, if you remember my experience with another local window firm and my Longchamp, I ended up having to repaint the hood, roof and rear decklid at their expense, because they put their tools on my newly painted car. This guy, who’s company translates to “The Window Man” is a lot better.
We put the rubber on the windshield, tried to install trim. Didn’t fit that well in corners. Took it out, bent some more, one corner up, one corner down, and now it fit perfectly all around the windshield. Time to install.
Still, after all that effort, when the windshield was installed, the lower corners didn’t go in the rubber as they should. Hhmm. Then we pushed, later hammered gently, all the time scared the windshield would say: “Enough”, and crack. It got better but not good.
Frustrated, I said, I almost want to put a clamp on it and push it down. He said, let’s try it. So we ended up putting super window glue down there, and a clamp on all night, both sides. And then we had to continue today.
• No welding in the window frame
• Same windshield
• Best available new rubber
• Trim pieces sat almost perfectly before
Got some advice from Johnny Woods, before installing, lay the trim pieces on windshield, see fit. Didn’t fit very well in corners. Spent a few hours bending them with my hands, rubber hammer, wooden block etc. Got a great fit I thought.
Yesterday the window guy got here. Super guy, meticulous and interested in doing a good job. BTW, if you remember my experience with another local window firm and my Longchamp, I ended up having to repaint the hood, roof and rear decklid at their expense, because they put their tools on my newly painted car. This guy, who’s company translates to “The Window Man” is a lot better.
We put the rubber on the windshield, tried to install trim. Didn’t fit that well in corners. Took it out, bent some more, one corner up, one corner down, and now it fit perfectly all around the windshield. Time to install.
Still, after all that effort, when the windshield was installed, the lower corners didn’t go in the rubber as they should. Hhmm. Then we pushed, later hammered gently, all the time scared the windshield would say: “Enough”, and crack. It got better but not good.
Frustrated, I said, I almost want to put a clamp on it and push it down. He said, let’s try it. So we ended up putting super window glue down there, and a clamp on all night, both sides. And then we had to continue today.
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Today we continued, glue curing over the night. It did indeed help, not perfect, but frankly I can’t remember how it looked before I took it all apart.
He did some sealer all the way around on top of what’s in the groove, and we discovered a small stone chip, he fixed that for me as well. And then it was time for the rear side windows, 10 minutes each, no problem.
All in all 4 hours of work. If any Danes want a window installer that cares about the car he works on instead of just slamming the windshield in and drive to the next customer, I recommend him. He comes to where the car is. www.rudemanden.dk
Only a few days work left now…
He did some sealer all the way around on top of what’s in the groove, and we discovered a small stone chip, he fixed that for me as well. And then it was time for the rear side windows, 10 minutes each, no problem.
All in all 4 hours of work. If any Danes want a window installer that cares about the car he works on instead of just slamming the windshield in and drive to the next customer, I recommend him. He comes to where the car is. www.rudemanden.dk
Only a few days work left now…
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Sorry I missed most of this thread. Looks great ! I have never painted blue that did not come out great. Just a great color.
Hej Mikael,
thanks for the tip,
Cheers, Tim.
thanks for the tip,
Cheers, Tim.
Spent most of the last 24 hours getting the right window to go up and down freely. Lots of bending and twisting and taking apart, normal adjustments wouldn't suffice. Reminded me of when a friend years ago had fitted another door to his car because the old one was rusty. He hadn't managed to get it to fit very well, so in attempt to be funny, I asked him what brand of car he got that door from... 
Point is that the curvature (never thought I would use that word) of the window and the chrome frame are/were not the same, so I had to fiddle with a lot of things. I seem to remember a Taurus solution, or even a Pantera modified solution, is that right? Is that a higher torque solution, or just an easy solution for when the window motor breaks?
I constantly think there's 1 day's work, then I can drive, but after a day's work, there's still one day's work. No worry, it snowed yesterday. But I would like to DRIVE soon!
Point is that the curvature (never thought I would use that word) of the window and the chrome frame are/were not the same, so I had to fiddle with a lot of things. I seem to remember a Taurus solution, or even a Pantera modified solution, is that right? Is that a higher torque solution, or just an easy solution for when the window motor breaks?
I constantly think there's 1 day's work, then I can drive, but after a day's work, there's still one day's work. No worry, it snowed yesterday. But I would like to DRIVE soon!
Here's a thread on the Taurus window motor conversion: http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...=921100755#921100755
I just spent ALL DAY yesterday fiddling with the rear passenger window on my 69 Cutlass convertible. The window has been difficult to crank lately, and then my daughter and her friends took the car out Friday night and forced the hand crank when it became difficult to turn (rather than lifting the glass to assist) and the glass dropped into the body. What I hoped to be a 2 hour project turned into ALL day, but I did disassemble the other side as well and greased the regulator, rollers and slides, as adjust the limit stops, so I shouldn't ever have to do this again.
I just spent ALL DAY yesterday fiddling with the rear passenger window on my 69 Cutlass convertible. The window has been difficult to crank lately, and then my daughter and her friends took the car out Friday night and forced the hand crank when it became difficult to turn (rather than lifting the glass to assist) and the glass dropped into the body. What I hoped to be a 2 hour project turned into ALL day, but I did disassemble the other side as well and greased the regulator, rollers and slides, as adjust the limit stops, so I shouldn't ever have to do this again.
Mikael, Prior to disassembling my car for paint I noticed at car shows many panteras with ill fitting windshield mouldings. This is probably a function of once it comes off it never goes on the same again issue. Needless to say we had the same problem we fought and fought the moulding to no avail. Finally we decided to drill a small 1/16" hole in the windshield lip with the windshield and rubber installed without the moulding. We then drilled a small hole in the moulding and threaded some small stainless wire and pulled it thru. We then tied the wire off arould a small screw. This is essentially a strap for the moulding holding it down. We initially thought of using glue but we were concerned about future dis-assembly problems. I imagine this is one of the reasons some people use the glue in windshields. I dont think they look proper on our cars. At least now my mouldings fit well. 
Yes, it takes some fiddling to get it just 90% right. Is that because of "hand-built?" When I did a frame off resto on my 68 Camaro I remember that things fit as they should when installing them. On the Pantera, quite a big part of what I installed had to come off again and be adjusted in some way to fit properly/symmetrically etc. Bumpers, everything in the doors, interior roof moldings etc.
looks great i'll bet the pictures you take outside will be fabulous.
Amazing color. Looking forward to see it in the sunlight.
What kinda mufflers do you have mounted ?
What kinda mufflers do you have mounted ?
Rain today and tomorrow = no more salt. Sunshine and 15+ degrees sunday = blue, green and red pantera cruising ??
Heine, they're not avail anymore AFAIK exactly like that, but very similar. I got them on ebay for $100 for two, they were called:
DB001k OBX Dual Muffler
DB001k OBX Dual Muffler
Kristian, driving Sunday is a possibility. Need to polish the boat if weather is too good though, with Erik. Let's see
Mikael,
Okey. Looks very much like the ones from PI - I bought some stainless mufflers for mine too, but haven't mounted them yet.
Kristian: That would be awesome, with a cruise. But I have an appointment with a photographer and a model, that wanna shoot some pics of my Pantera. Crap..... Would have been much more fun driving with You Guys !!!!
Okey. Looks very much like the ones from PI - I bought some stainless mufflers for mine too, but haven't mounted them yet.
Kristian: That would be awesome, with a cruise. But I have an appointment with a photographer and a model, that wanna shoot some pics of my Pantera. Crap..... Would have been much more fun driving with You Guys !!!!
Heine - how about a double-pantera-photo-shoot. I'll take the model in my car - you can have the photografer 
Haha, Kristian - Good reply ! 
But.... The photographer have asked me if I could manage to get a couple of Italian sportscars together for a shoot this summer. So I might need a Pantera or two more. Also have a Maserati Mexico, Lambo Urraco, Countach in mind that I know of. It could be a fantastic shoot. He will make the shoot in Roskilde, at the "Musicon" - So if You're game, You're in !!
Let me know......
But.... The photographer have asked me if I could manage to get a couple of Italian sportscars together for a shoot this summer. So I might need a Pantera or two more. Also have a Maserati Mexico, Lambo Urraco, Countach in mind that I know of. It could be a fantastic shoot. He will make the shoot in Roskilde, at the "Musicon" - So if You're game, You're in !!
Let me know......
quote:Let me know......
Absolutely - should be fun.