Rattle as clutch peddle releases

Hard to tell from a distance.

BUT, what pressure plate did you use?

With some standard Ford pressure plates, there can be a clearance issue between the bellhousing and the counterweights on the three clutch fingers. Is the noise a rotational noise? Doubt this is the issue - it would be there at start up, too.

Not sure what throw out bearing you have, but if it was first modified by the vendor, and then you removed some spacers, I'd think the chance for something amiss in that area seems logical?

If you bought pieces from several sources then no one will be able to give you an off-the-shelf answer. Mix-n-match has too much potential for problems.

Not the cheapest way to go, but when doing a full clutch R&R, buying the whole shebang from one vendor at least gives you what SHOULD be a matched performance-proven collection of parts.

AND gives you one person to call for advice on subsequent problems.

I'd call your throw out bearing vendor on Monday. Have all your other parts information at hand.

Larry

here are the parts I used:

clutch pack:

http://www.napaonline.com/NOLP...NCMU73501_0062744320

DON'T USE THIS PART!!!!!.... SEE MY 4/24/09 POST BELOW.

T/O Bearing:

http://www.pim.net/newprodtobear716.jpg

I will listen to the rattle again to see if it sounds rotational.

Thanks again.

Dennis

An update, I started the car and put it in reverse and backed out of the garage about 10ft or so with the rattle. (the rattle only occurs with the clutch pedal released or slightly released, not when fully depressed). I put in first and drove forward 10ft. The car is moving smoothly even with the rattle. After a few of these back and forth, the rattle in reverse went away. However the rattle seemed to be more noticeable the more the pedal is released in first or second (did not get to 3rd etc). Could it be that I need to adjust the lever being pushed by the slave cylinder?

If you don't have enough release, your throw out bearing will contact and spin or rattle. same problem as your clutch wears. adjust your rod or another spline on the arm, there's not much to work with, small space and only so much throw.

Mark

The Pantera and Mangusta has a light anti-rattle spring that clips onto the throwout bearing & cross-shaft and adds a bit of tension to the assembly. If it's missing or mis-installed, a rattle will result. Have you recently replaced any parts in your clutch?

If you see my prior posts on March 28th above you can see what I've done...basically I replaced everything, pilot bearing, clutch kit and throwout bearing.

In moving the car back and forth under power in the driveway, the rattle is almost gone when backing up, but now it persists even in neutral.

Update: The rattle turned out to be banging of the three pressure plate arm counterweight arms hitting the lower bellhousing bolt tunnels that hold the bellhouse to the transaxle from the inside.

Luckily there wasn't any serious damage, just some scrapes on the inside of the bellhousing. I just installed the McLeod clutch disk (part #260141) and pressure plate (part #360505).

I'll update again once I get the car running.

Therefore don't go cheap and use the Napa part above.

Has anyone used a McLeod disk with a centerforce pressure plate?
Will