All
I know I previously have read a very well detailed writeup on how to cut out and insert a small rectangular hollow section to reinforce and repair the rear most transverse cross member on the Chassis. I have searched everywhere and cannot find it.
Anyone recall this and point me in the right direction ?
I think the time has come to fix mine which has been decidedly well loved.
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I did it on my car, I believe it is documented in my 5357 thread. Here's the Link...
5357, Rocky's L - Model, Page 1
If my mod is the one you are thinking of, it’s on the bottom of the first page, scroll way down….
Rocky
Thanks Rocky - I know I have seen it but searched this and the pantera Place and could not find it . Most appreciated!
Yes - That is exactly what I was thinking of - Thanks very much. I need to get me one of those motivational posters.....!
The pictures on the post are perfect - I was not sure the inside of the cross member cavity was clear or had the stud ends in it from the sway bar mounts . But its clear so I am off the get some steel RHS tube !
Another rear crossmember upgrade for you to consider is one many of us have performed.
Rocky’s upgrade does an excellent job of preventing damage to the crossmember from floor jacks, but leaves the pinch weld at the rear of the crossmember still vulnerable to damage.
In general that pinch weld is about 1/4 inch deep but it may vary.
using the appropriate thickness, a 12 to 16 inch piece of steel bar can be attached to the bottom of the crossmember, forward of the pinch weld, so that the bar is first contact on a floor jack.
I imagine welding would be the ideal method of attachment, but I think bolting the flat bar to some threaded holes tapped into the crossmember would suffice. If bolted, I think fully covering the bar surface with a quality RTV prior to bolting, would help minimize any water intrusion.
I tried to take a photo of mine just now, but with it only about 4 inches off the floor, and all painted black, the photo is worthless. 😉
Larry
Thanks Larry - I was firstly thinking of doing exactly that but the existing lower surface has been beaten in by about 5- 15 mm in the middle through the tender mercies of the Mad Mechanics Guild. I would be guaranteed of a gap between the member and the plate. And I did not want to create a new problem solving the old by just sealing it up.
Perhaps a combination ? I could fold the RHS end up - and seal weld the ends in before it is put into the recess? Then the RHS is inserted only to be flush with the pinch weld and sealed in at the ends and along the pinch weld ? So the entire bottom surface is 1/4 lower ?
Mind you, your approach is fully reversible aside from a couple of threaded holes. Which is attractive.
