Rear Trunk Latch

If you're not allergic for the brand , take a look at this:

http://www.russian4x4.de/en/er...&searchparam=1157%20


I have one of these somewhere in the garage but I don't have the original. But I can give reference dimensions if needed.

-Sami

Fantastic! Thanks Sami, I have one ordered

Wow, that's a great find, is it the same dimensions as oem?

It's cheap enough to ship to the US!

BTW shipping to the UK should not be expensive on small parts if sent USPS, we ship packages back to family all the time. I knwo a lot of vendors only use UPS or FedEx which incur duties etc. I am not far from Pantera Parts Connection and can always pick up parts and ship, just remember local sales incur an 8% sales tax.

Julian

At least for my car it was a direct fit.

But as I said, I don't have an original to compare with. If someone has it available we can cross check some dimensions.

-Sami

i have one on ebay

quote:

Originally posted by TransSami:
If you're not allergic for the brand , take a look at this:

http://www.russian4x4.de/en/er...&searchparam=1157%20


I have one of these somewhere in the garage but I don't have the original. But I can give reference dimensions if needed.

-Sami

The pushbutton lock/key that's for sale on the site looks the same as the Pantera's also.

quote:

Originally posted by king:
i have one on ebay

From what I saw of the one you had listed it was clearly broken at the latch portion.

The trunk latch exists in many visually similar versions. This one does appear dimensionally correct.

Likewise, the pushbutton deck lock has many close cousins. The one pictured does NOT appear to be a direct match to the Pantera lock.

So, I've pulled the pin and ordered one of each.

Their shipping is outrageous, though.

Parts come to about $24. Shipping, and a 2.5 Euro Paypal handling charge, came to $55. And they use DHL, which can often come with added customs fees.

But since I just bought a deck lid latch from Hall, and it was $75 plus tax and shipping, this German outfit may prove to be worth the shipping expenses.

I'll let you all know when it arrives.

Larry

This is an NOS push button lock:

Note the location of the locking pin and how it differs between the two pictures. This different location will likely work just fine, as it is matched to the housing. But it does indicate they are not the same.

Also, the actuating pin on the back of the lock cylinder has different styles and the German photo leaves one guessing as to what it looks like.

Additionally, the lock cylinder mounts at an angle to the mounting plate on our Pantera's, and photographs of these similar locks often fail to clearly show if that angle is the same with a Pantera lock. It may be possible to work around an incorrect angle by using a tapered shim during installation, as long as the result protrudes far enough.

Larry

Hey Larry,

You are ahead of me, I looked at taking a chance and placing an order for one of each too and it came up $48 shipping. The upside if they fit is that I placed multiples of each on in the cart and the shipping didn't change, so you can spread the cost, but I wasn't willing to buy multiples without verifying fit! I've been there, done that and have parts on the shelf to prove it!

The lock also appears to be available on eBay from a Ukrainian seller $10.99 with same again for shipping. The latch he has is different with a metal insert and not cast, but might equally functionally work for $3.75 and $7.99 shipping.

Julian

Lada use also an Italian design ignition switch.
The switches are look a likes from Fiat and Iso Rivolta.
Simon

I emailed them when I ordered mine and got a better shipping price shipped as a letter.

So can any of the European Team post up their experiences with these (they may not have arrived in the USA yet).

One of our AZ Members (not me) needs a new latch.

Rocky

It worked fine when I tested it. But I never had the pushbutton installed, so you might want to wait another opinion.

Verfying the fitment at the moment is a bit... challenging...



-Sami

My Lada items from Russian 4X4, the German outfit with the stupid high shipping charges, have arrived.

I bought the chassis-mounted decklid latch, and the decklid-mounted push button lock assembly.

The latch is the same one TransSami previously ordered and said it was a direct fit.

I have a Hall Pantera-supplied latch I just purchased. I've compared the two versions side-by-side and while there are differences in the design and construction, the critical dimensions do match.

The main difference between the two is at the mounting plate, which I have found to be the weak link in these latches.

The Lada plate has an added stiffener side-to-side bridge. Based on TransSamis' experience that added stiffener appears to be a non-issue. Should it cause any installation problems, it could easily be cut out.

The mounting plate center-to-center dimensions are the same.
The shape and size of the cast latch piece are the same.
The location of the latch pivot is the same.
The height and width of the housings are the same.
The profiles of the housings have just minor differences.

Comparison photos posted for posterity.

Note I removed the tension spring from the Hall unit for photo purposes. Otherwise the spring pushed the latch and blocked true photo comparisons.

Larry

LADA ON LEFT --------- HALL ON RIGHT

#2

HALL ON LEFT -------- LADA ON RIGHT

#3

LADA ON LEFT --------- HALL ON RIGHT

NOTE: The Lada latch push point (where the push button lock contacts for release) is not a solid surface, as in the Hall piece. It has a large center gap.

The Pantera push-button lock has a center-mounted plunger that depresses the latch for release.

TransSami made no mention of this causing any problems in lock operation.

Should a problem manifest itself due to that gap, a small metal plate glued over that gap would solve that issue.

#4

LADA ON LEFT --------- HALL ON RIGHT

NOTE: The Hall piece has small brass tension washers on the pivot shaft to somewhat stabilize the cast latch.

The Lada piece does not have these tension washers, but I can't see this is of any major concern.

#5

LADA ON LEFT --------- HALL ON RIGHT

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
#3

LADA ON LEFT --------- HALL ON RIGHT

NOTE: The Lada latch push point (where the push button lock contacts for release) is not a solid surface, as in the Hall piece. It has a large center gap.

The Pantera push-button lock has a center-mounted plunger that depresses the latch for release.

TransSami made no mention of this causing any problems in lock operation.

Should a problem manifest itself due to that gap, a small metal plate glued over that gap would solve that issue.

Transami did say he didn't have the pushbutton installed, I can see that hole likely presenting an issue unless filled with epoxy or the like.

Now for a review of the Lada trunk lock.

I compared the Lada piece to an NOS trunk lock for these photos.

For starters, the rear of the lock (not shown in online listing) is VERY different from the stock Pantera unit.

The center-to-center mounting points are different.
The angles of the barrel to the mounting plate are slightly different.
The Lada barrel outside diameter is .1" greater than the Pantera piece.
The Lada barrel is .15" shorter than the Pantera piece.

After disassembly of the Lada piece, I found the push-in pin that contacts the trunk latch is offset to the side of its diameter, rather than in the center as on the Pantera lock.

As supplied, this pushbutton lock will not function in a Pantera.

HOWEVER,

IF the barrel angle, length and diameter differences can be overcome....

IF the additional Lada lock pieces are removed from the mounting plate....

If the Lada lock offset plunger somehow correctly hits the cast trunk latch contact point and provides proper depression-for-release (or can have a center plunger added)....

If the Lada lock center-to-center mounting plate differences can be overcome....

Then perhaps the Lada trunk lock could function in a Pantera.

Photos follow for posterity.

Larry

PANTERA AT TOP ----- LADA ON BOTTOM

#2

LADA AT TOP ----- PANTERA ON BOTTOM

I have removed the additional part, spring and pivot to better see the rear of the lock.

#3

NOTE: The rectangular hole in the lock barrel is where the internal lock pin extends to lock the trunk.

The Lada hole is rotated 180° from the Pantera hole. As it does not extend beyond the barrel housing, this is not an issue.

This photo shows the slight difference in the angle of the mounting plates.

LADA AT TOP ----- PANTERA ON BOTTOM

#4

The lock barrel/plunger units are very different in external features.

In addition to the offset pin on the Lada unit, the diameter of the Lada unit is greater than the Pantera unit.

LADA AT TOP ----- PANTERA ON BOTTOM

#5

Lada lock offset pin MIGHT contact the latch push point and function to unlock the decklid.

That is, IF the Lada lock can be modified to fit the Pantera.

Thanks for being the guinea pig Larry, I'm sure you are out some coin for the better knowledge of the community and your willingness to take that in the name of advancing Pantera science is appreciated!

And by now you have surely tested how the latch works with correct Pantera pushbutton?

-Sami

Alas, 2511 is 700 miles from me at this time.

Unable to actually test.

Larry

quote:

Originally posted by LF - TP 2511:
Alas, 2511 is 700 miles from me at this time.

Unable to actually test.

Larry

You can send me the pushbutton and I'll do the testing...

-Sami

The die-cast 'hook' on any of the various latch designs often wears from vibration and can release the decklid while driving. The lid then pops up and air pressure can spread your belongings along the road. The stock hook depth can be filed a bit deeper to work again. I carry a small bungee cord regardless since when changing a tire on the road, I found neither front nor rear tire ass'y's will fit in the trunk tub with the decklid latched. They will fit in the passenger seat but a rider will not enjoy the rest of the trip....

IMHO, no combination of stock latches will fix paint chipping on the decklid edges from vibration, but gluing a 1" square patch on the outer edge of the weatherstrip groove (both sides) fixes paint chipping and is nearly invisible. A cut-up bicycle inner tube or an old fashioned tire patch supplies the rubber. Mine is 22 yrs old.