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I tried numerous ways to remove the undercoating and I settled on a hot air gun with a putty knife as the easiest. Then I came back through with a wire wheel on a die grinder to polish the last of it off.

The remnants can be removed with any good solvent, M.E.K. methyl ethyl ketone is a good strong solvent, use with care and in good ventilation.

Julian
My undercoating was so hard and brittle I was able to remove most of it cold using a thin spring-steel scraper and a chipping action. Surprisingly little damage occurred to the original paint. I did the final cleanup with (I think) lacquer thinner. It is a long and tedious job.

My big tip: don't even try to do it without removing the engine first off. You'll save more time than it takes to pull the deck lid (remove hinge pins only) and the engine with ZF attached. I agree with the Bed liner approach. I used paint and it's far less durable (my trunk pan scratches it easily). It's a tough job, but worth doing.
Like Mark, I found working with it cold to be easier and less messy. Chipping with a flexible steel scraper and flat-bladed screwdriver often times removes the undercoating cleanly, especially over painted areas. Any remaining undercoating was removed with either a drill or angle grinder with various wire attachments and cleaned up with lacquer thinner.
From what I have seen on Youtube the needle scaler is the way to go.
I am going to due the bottom of car.The engine bay is already done . The under coating it soft. I am no sure if it will work good on the soft under coating . I ordered a Intersolram unit. What do you think about spraying lizard skin sound proofing . I put Dynamat on inside of car but still looking to make cabin quieter .
The worst and messiest job I have ever done on a car!!!

Heat Gun and Scraper: I used a heat gun and scraper, like Julian, which is how I removed most of the stuff. Note that the scraper will not slide smoothly on the metal beneath to cleanly lift off sheets of the undercoating because it hides a multitude of manufacturing sins - weld splatter, rough edges, etc. And be aware that you will burn yourself with that heat gun - at least I did on several occasions. Then you'll need to thoroughly wipe out all the spot weld dimples and crevices with lots of lacquer thinner, as well as rub down the entire surface to remove the remaining undercoating film.

Wire Wheel: I also tried a wire wheel on a die grinder - that only threw crap all over the garage, and in my hair, ears, clothes, etc.

Torch and scraper: I also tried a torch to heat the stuff and scrape it off - this is fine if you like noxious fumes and inhaling carcinogens.

If I were to do it again, I'd use aircraft stripper. A friend and his daughter stripped his entire engine compartment in about 4 hours one evening to prep the car for paint. I thought I could save the paint beneath, but it was a mess by the time I was done. Aircraft stripper would have been much faster and easier I think.

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