Removing the last bit of undercoating in the engine bay

I used lacquer thinner and clean rags. I didn't let it (the thinner) sit long on the paint and I was able to remove ALL the old tar without taking any paint in the process. BTW, the black areas you see are where I scraped the paint when removing the tar. I treated them with a rust-prep that turns the metal black.

quote:

Originally posted by Mark Charlton:
I treated them with a rust-prep that turns the metal black.

Mark,

Can you tell us the name of the rust-prep you used for future reference? Thanks.

Michael

Nice job Mark.

I use all Dupont products this metal prep has always served me well.

Iron DuPont 5717S™ DuPont 5718S™

See this site as a reference for paints, primers and prep.


http://pc.dupont.com/bowstreet5/dpc/en/us/html/prodinfo...em/chromasystem.html

Ron

Kerosene lamp oil is what I used

quote:

Originally posted by Cyboman:

Can you tell us the name of the rust-prep you used for future reference? Thanks.

Michael

Michael, I think it was something like "Stop Rust" but that isn't correct. I picked it up at a Pro Auto-Body shop and they said it would prevent any minor rust from getting worse. I don't have it any more, as this was a few years back.

From what I hear, POR15 is the best stuff to use if it will not be exposed to direct light, in which case it must be top-coated.

Thanks Ron and Mark.

Michael

Bohdan, for those nights in my garage and all that you taught me, I will be happy to drive to Ottawa, bringing some dentist tools, soft dremel tips, plastic tipped scrapers and two strong and patient arms.

Just say when.

I used plain ole K1 kerosine. It has several advantages. High flash point so it will not explode like gas. Slow burning so if it does ignite it wont go crazy. It does not evaporate fast so low amount of vapors and it will stick around long enough to really soak into the tar undercoating. It also washes up easy with a good soap and water solution. Not as toxic as some other distilates so vapors and skin contact are of less of a concern.

Naptha will also work well and is a little less oily. It just costs more.

I not only cleaned my engine bay, but also the entire under side of the car including the wheel areas then painted it.

Damn, looks like lime/seafoam green. I hope you keep it that way, don't see much of that color around. Good luck with getting the stuff off, look like work and pleasure.

quote:

Originally posted by DOES 200:
Damn, looks like lime/seafoam green. I hope you keep it that way, don't see much of that color around.

This is the only one I've ever seen.

Michael