Replacing Master Cylinder

not a big thing

pull old push rod out, make sure not to damage the sealing at the booster.
Get the new one in. Key is now the "small" gap needed between the push rod top and the master. Here you have to play a bit..master in and out. There is a spec for the gap I do not have at hand, but it is very little. (1 millimeter) You need a trick to measure the gap with master in, like put some paint on the tip and see if it binds.. Adjust the tip screw accordingly.

Key is at the end to get the seal in place correctly as you otherwise get no stable vacuum!

Yeap I talked to Jerry at PI and he said basically the same thing to do.  I pulled the rod out this morning no issue there.  Cleaned up where the seal will sit.  Will be attemping the rest of it after the air conditioning has had a chance to cool down the garage a bit.  Was 81 this monring inside. Old man cant work drenched in sweat like I use to.  Wife is great about supplying fancy drinks with ICE.

I was looking at the front suspension and would like to clean it up but cant see it after the wheel is on. Not sure if I should wash it somehow.

Thanks matg for some decent info.  Still have a list once I finish the brakes.  Oh I saw a nice crack in my front tires. (BF Goodrich) yeah they are old. Original rims so I will need to decide to either get the same ones or around the same price something just as good. Not ready for the headache of deciding. Either way need replacing and I wont be driving over 90 anyway.

Well master cylinder needs to go back.  Cap does not stay tight. Once i get it snug it pops off. My old cap does the same on the new master.  So some issue with the threads. Shame I was so close to getting the brakes wrapped up and on to the next thing. I did see I need to flush out my clutch slave cyl. Guess once I send this master back and wait for a replacement I should be able to catch up pretty quick to where I left off.  Just a setback nothing new. Looking for front tires so I could get that done.