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I also have two Testarossa's, a Lexus LS400 and a late 90's Range Rover.

The Pantera has to be able to play like the Testarossa as it will never keep up with the Soarer.

If I can get it right, it will be like having a 70's Supercar, and 80's Supercar and a 90's Supercar.

Besides, I like old cars!
I ended up sending the arms to Johnny in the UK. I'm a pretty fair welder and I also have a good press in the garage, but I figured that it adds to the community to use the guys that pioneered the modifications. I thought that Johnny would be set up with jig etc to keep everything straight and besides, he is know to do great work.

The arms are now back and will be fitted in the next week or so. Still a few other issues to sort out and things to paint and clean up before it all goes back together.

Thanks Johnny, great work mate.
I fitted the front upper and lower arms back into the car today.


Johnny's arms come with a 19mm spacer block in alloy. When fitting, do you put the large block to the rear of the car and all of the factory shims to the front and then adjust from there, or the large block at the front to give maximum angle and then shims at the rear?

Also, when fitting the upper ball joint into place, where is a good point to set it so at least it can be driven to the wheel alignment machine? Front of slots, rear or slots or try to get a central measurement?
The whole purpose of the modification is to move the top of the spindle rearward so the thick spacer would go to the front of the ball joint. You could use a level and get the wheel as close to straight up and down as you can with the wheels straight ahead for a starting point. Be sure to measure the toe in and try to get it to zero or as close as you can. This will get you to the alignment shop.
Hi Rob,

Like Forest says, put the spacer at the front to move the top ball joint back. The gives you positive castor.
I supplied you with a 19mm spacer, this will put you in the ball park of 6-7 degrees positive.
I think that is what works best on wide bodied cars with all that scrub radius due to the crazy (but great looking) offset and width on the front wheels.

If you dont like the way it feels mill the spacer down and move the ball joint forward a bit. 10mm of movement on the top ball joint will give about 2 degrees.

I think narrow bodied cars feel best with 5 degrees positive - some guys like more. That's the great thing about having the camber lock, you can experiment around with the castor without fear of losing your camber setting. As long as the ball joint is touching the camber lock bolt it will always be spot on. It's important to get it the same side to side.

Try different castor settings until you like the feel of it.

Hi Johnny,

I am assuming that you only modify the steel arms. Do you know of anyone who does a modification on the aluminum billet arms, front or rear? I bought my car with them on, so I know very little about them -- just curious if there is anything that could/should be done to them to make handling better?

Thanks, Mark
Hi Johnny,

Thanks! I kind of thought that would be the answer. I do not know if the alloy ones on my car are the exact as the steel arms or not? I will do some more digging. I suppose the expensive answer would be to make new billet uppers, or the other option would be to use steel for the uppers.

Does anyone else have any experience with the alloy arms and what is currently offered?



The current billet aluminum offerings from PIM & Precision Proformance (Byers) appear similar in design and use a screw in 4 bar rod end at the chassis end, thus if you don't mind the suspension transmitting a bit more road feel then you could swap those to heim joints (or find narrower 4 bar ends). The heims are much narrower and therefore you could space them to gain caster. If you do both top and bottom (top spaced rearward, bottom spaced forward) I'd bet you get all of the caster that a modified steel a-arm provides.


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