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I am slipping out of third on occasion especially on deceleration. I am going to check the position of my shifter in the gate too. But does anyone know if the rod in the engine bay should be moved slightly forward to the front of the car or to the rear of the car to enable better contact in 3rd? The wife has been complaining it keeps slipping out, I suppose that's what she's talking about Razzer.
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Jan,

The pivot with 3rd gear selection rearward is forward i.e. the rod is forward so either moving it further forward or extending it should correct it if it is not fully engaging.

You can usually get a good feel from where the shifter sits in the gate, if in 2nd the shifter touches the forward gate and in 3rd it isn't close to the rearward then an adjustment is probably warranted.

Julian
Having had to adjust my shifter for the same problem here's what I did.

In neutral the shifter should be dead center in the gate > left-right/top-bottom. The adjustment is at the turnbuckle over the ZF. One locking nut is right-hand and one is left-hand (with the notches) thread. Rotate the turnbuckle probably about 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise (as you look at it from the rear of the car) which lengthens the rod towards 2nd and clockwise to get towards 3rd. Start small, even tightening the locknuts makes a change.

Using masking tape on the rods and tunrbuckle scribe a line on all 3 so you know where you've been. Making the adjustment the lines on the rods ahould be in the same spot; only the turnbuckle line is different. Having someone in the car to "Hold" the shifter in posistion when tightening really helps. By the way, first check the tightness on the rod splines under the console ashtray, at the heim joint and the ZF while your at it. A little fiddling around and you should be able to make the proper adjustment.

When I got it I used a silver Sharpe' and scribed 3 small lines on the components to show me where the proper adjustment now is.

Dave
quote:
...Gate, Gate, Gate?? Get Rid Of The GATE!! The Only person who needs a 'Gate' is a 90 Year Old GrandMother! And She's Blind!!...


Not sure how removing the gate will correct the shifting issue "Does 200" is having. It seems that with or without the shift gate the linkage needs to be properly adjusted.

Some people (myself included) like the period correct shift gate. To each their own.
quote:
Originally posted by BOXXBOYS:
Having had to adjust my shifter for the same problem here's what I did.

In neutral the shifter should be dead center in the gate > left-right/top-bottom. The adjustment is at the turnbuckle over the ZF. One locking nut is right-hand and one is left-hand (with the notches) thread. Rotate the turnbuckle probably about 1/8 of a turn counter-clockwise (as you look at it from the rear of the car) which lengthens the rod towards 2nd and clockwise to get towards 3rd. Start small, even tightening the locknuts makes a change.

Using masking tape on the rods and tunrbuckle scribe a line on all 3 so you know where you've been. Making the adjustment the lines on the rods ahould be in the same spot; only the turnbuckle line is different. Having someone in the car to "Hold" the shifter in posistion when tightening really helps. By the way, first check the tightness on the rod splines under the console ashtray, at the heim joint and the ZF while your at it. A little fiddling around and you should be able to make the proper adjustment.

When I got it I used a silver Sharpe' and scribed 3 small lines on the components to show me where the proper adjustment now is.

Dave

Thanks Dave. At the shift gate in nutral I have about 1 & 3/4" measurement from shifter to front of gate and 1 & 1/2" from shifter to rear of gate. So it seems the shifter position may need to go forward slightly which may result in more throw when shifting to 3rd? See photo below taken from rear of car into engine bay...do I need to loosen any of the labeled #1 or #2 nuts before turning the turnbuckle? From your info it seems the turnbuckle needs to be turned counterclock looking into the engine bay.

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Last edited by does200
Jan,

You may be able to take up the little movement you need by moving the slip joint a little at the ZF end....much easier.

That turnbuckle looks pretty solid, but if you do need to undo it first use a pen or marker to mark alignment of the two rods with each other. Then hold #2 whilst undoing jam nut #3 and then undo jam nut #1 (should be left hand thread). Once all is loose you can move the turnbuckle clockwise (as looking at your photo) to extend the rod length. It likely won't take much as the threads are fairly coarse. The trick is then to hold it all there while retightening the jam nuts and ensuring the marks on the rods are aligned. If you don't do that part then you might change the cross gate (R-5) centering as well.

Good luck,
Julian
quote:
Originally posted by Joules5:
Jan,

You may be able to take up the little movement you need by moving the slip joint a little at the ZF end....much easier.

That turnbuckle looks pretty solid, but if you do need to undo it first use a pen or marker to mark alignment of the two rods with each other. Then hold #2 whilst undoing jam nut #3 and then undo jam nut #1 (should be left hand thread). Once all is loose you can move the turnbuckle clockwise (as looking at your photo) to extend the rod length. It likely won't take much as the threads are fairly coarse. The trick is then to hold it all there while retightening the jam nuts and ensuring the marks on the rods are aligned. If you don't do that part then you might change the cross gate (R-5) centering as well.

Good luck,
Julian

Ha Julian, I was kind of thinking the same thing trying at the slip joints at the rear. Maybe while in the engine bay all month monkeying with the salve maybe I accidently moved something with body pressure because it wasn't like that before. One more clarification, I am trying to make the rod longer is that right? So at the slip jount, I am moving the rod toward the front of the car and then tightening the slip joint right? I like trying the slip joint idea first rather than the turnbuckel, not much damn room at the turnbuckel area for much wrench movement.
Its possible to vary the cockpit stick location without breaking loose the turnbuckle, by sliding the splined end of the shifter rod back & forth in the clamped end at the shifter box. About 3/16" can be gained by removing the squeeze bolt & prying or pushing on the splined end. If a shift-stick adjustment doesn't do it, there's a linkage assembly inside the shifter box on the rear of the ZF. In some cars, a setscrew in there loosens up. There's a rubber plug on the side of the box that when removed, allows a metric allen wrench access to the critical setscrew. I'd refer heavily on a copy of the ZF Overhaul Manual (available from PI, POCA and most vendors) while doing this. And if THAT doesn't do it, consider calling Lloyd at RBT Transmissions and scheduling an overhaul; a synchro assembly may be cracked inside your ZF.
1st > In my opinion the shift gate is every part of the car and it's "Italianesqueness" as the detomaso name. I happen to love it and so does car show attendees. I hear alot of positive comments about the gate and its look.

Does: I would check the 3 spline locations for tightness 1st then adjust the turnbuckle. From my understanding this is where the easy adjustment lies and it worked great for my Pantera.

After scribing lines on masking tape as described then loosen # 1 - # 3. Looking into the engine bay then adjust the turn buckle only a little clock or counter clockwise as described; tighten # 1 - # 3 as see if it worked. Repeat as necessary. Best to have a person in the car to hold the shifter in place while you tighten the nuts.

My car is a Pre L in case that matters...

Dave
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