Your call no doubt! Which valve keepers were you using?
Gary
ht4tchr (Guest)
It doesn't show up too well in the pic but they are multi grooved ones and that is all I know.
detom (Guest)
If it is anyconsolation I had to put a whole new motor in last year just because the spark plug wires were hooked up to the wrong plugs. Yep, my sphincter is still like streached out from that one.
Often when taking photos with digital cameras, if you are going to take a close shot you may have to set it on macro and/or go to manual focus.
Gary
Gary
multigroove keepers indicate stock valves.
lastpushbutton (Guest)
In the photo it looks like tha valve is still in the head. It appears to be broke at the top of the stem.Or it might be broke on both ends. I have discussed this topic before and was told....ford valves have a 3 groove keeper. aftermarket have 1 or 2 grooves. You want the aftermarket. I need to check mine. You may be lucky, but if the valve fell in the cylender and bounced around. You may as well go through the complete engine. Mechanical devises such as engines have to "just right" or they fly apart quickly, make noises and leave you walking.
That's it! I'm minimizing my driving time until I can get my heads changed! Scary stuff!
PartTimeAdult (Guest)
I know you're not thinking about this now but your plugs indicate a very rich condition. You probably had some untapped HP with a few bucks for new brass.
Hope the damage is as minimal as could be...
Hope the damage is as minimal as could be...
So, what's the word?
Gary
Gary
Yeah, I'm curious to see what's inside! After all that I've seen, I've curbed my driving until I change out my heads. I decided that it will be more cost effective to install new aussie 2v heads rather to redo my original 4v with 1 piece valves. The hunt for new heads continues!
ht4tchr (Guest)
Just for kicks and a place to start, I pulled the head. Bad news! The valve punched a hole in the piston, bent a pushrod and chewed up the combustion chamber in the head. I don't know if the head can be fixed, probably not. I'll post some pics next time I dump the camera.
Where can I get a new head(S)? I think I'm just going to replace the damaged piston and leave the others - any advice on this? The piston is labled L2379.030. It is a TRW(Speed Pro), I believe the number indicates that it is cast and not forged. Where can I get one of these?
I'm in the process of disconnecting everything now. With any luck, the engine will come out this weekend or next.
Where can I get a new head(S)? I think I'm just going to replace the damaged piston and leave the others - any advice on this? The piston is labled L2379.030. It is a TRW(Speed Pro), I believe the number indicates that it is cast and not forged. Where can I get one of these?
I'm in the process of disconnecting everything now. With any luck, the engine will come out this weekend or next.
Well at least your not guesing anymore. Do you just want to repair the engine or do you want to do any upgrades?
Gary
Gary
ht4tchr (Guest)
Repairing the engine is about all I can get away with at this time. Along with fixing/rebuilding the carb and upgrading the radiator fans.
Suprising there is no scoring of the cylinder walls. With so many chunks floating around it seems you would have some damage there. If not consider yourself very lucky. Summit should be able to match numbers on the piston and maybe scrounge one up. You will at the very least have to hone the cylinder for proper ring seating.
Blaine
Blaine
detom (Guest)
quote:Originally posted by ht4tchr:
Repairing the engine is about all I can get away with at this time. Along with fixing/rebuilding the carb and upgrading the radiator fans.
Dude are you gonna be ok??? I was were you are at last year about this time. On the bright side there is a guy selling a whole truck load of cleveland parts all for five hundred bucks and he is in kansas city so shipping won't be too bad. Check out the parts for sale on this forum.
quote:Originally posted by ht4tchr:
The piston is labled L2379.030. It is a TRW(Speed Pro), I believe the number indicates that it is cast and not forged. Where can I get one of these?
TRW - Speed Pro.030 forged piston. $32.95 each from SummitRacing. http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=/egnsearch.asp&N=400193
ht4tchr (Guest)
{/QUOTE]
Dude are you gonna be ok??? I was were you are at last year about this time. On the bright side there is a guy selling a whole truck load of cleveland parts all for five hundred bucks and he is in kansas city so shipping won't be too bad. Check out the parts for sale on this forum.[/QUOTE]
What do you mean? Yeah, I'll be fine. I just don't remember much about engines. I've managed to figure a bunch out and have remembered a lot and learned a few new things. I hadn't planned on tearing anything apart until I needed to and that time is here. I'm actually having a bit of fun.
Anyway, I see/know forged pistons are available. What impact does the difference between forged and cast have on the rebuild?
What options do I have for getting the head fixed? The valve seat is a bit chewed up?
Dude are you gonna be ok??? I was were you are at last year about this time. On the bright side there is a guy selling a whole truck load of cleveland parts all for five hundred bucks and he is in kansas city so shipping won't be too bad. Check out the parts for sale on this forum.[/QUOTE]
What do you mean? Yeah, I'll be fine. I just don't remember much about engines. I've managed to figure a bunch out and have remembered a lot and learned a few new things. I hadn't planned on tearing anything apart until I needed to and that time is here. I'm actually having a bit of fun.
Anyway, I see/know forged pistons are available. What impact does the difference between forged and cast have on the rebuild?
What options do I have for getting the head fixed? The valve seat is a bit chewed up?
detom (Guest)
quote:What do you mean? Yeah, I'll be fine.
Nothing personal. I just remember how it felt like a swift kick to the balls when my entire engine blew apart. I was able to save the heads, but that was it. Everything else was laying in little pieces in the bottom of an oil pan that had a gaping hole through it. I was kinda depressed about it for awhile.
Now I have a brand new engine and it still has two more years of warrenty on it, so things are all ok again.
Which valve was it that broke? Sorry, I dont have any experience with the canted valve heads to be able to tell from the picture. I have seen a few engines that have blown intake valves. On occasion small bits and pieces get blown back into the intake manifold and distribute themselves throughout the cylinders. If there is any question definitely remove/check the other head. Good luck and hopefully you get back on the road quickly.
Blaine
Blaine
ht4tchr (Guest)
It was an exhaust valve. I pulled the engine and started the tear-down. The cylinder wall is cracked in two places. And yes, there were several pieces of metal distributed among the cylinders on the other side.
Should I be thinking about a new engine? Is it possible to sleeve the cylinder. It's already bored 30 over?
Should I be thinking about a new engine? Is it possible to sleeve the cylinder. It's already bored 30 over?
When they sleeve engines they have to bore the cylinders anyway. I am just unsure of whether there is enough material on a Cleveland to remove for sleeving . I am certianly no expert on this though. Im sure there are others on the board who can comment on this. I also found this site that had some info on sleeving.http://www.customdesignperformance.com They may be able to answer some questions.
Blaine
Blaine
ht4tchr (Guest)
Here are some pics of just how bad it is...
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ht4tchr (Guest)
another...
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ht4tchr (Guest)
one more...
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ht4tchr (Guest)
last one...
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Sleeve time, eh?
ht4tchr (Guest)
Yes. 1 sleeve, 1 piston, 1 push rod, valves, headwork... It's coming together though. It could have been worse.