My camera can't quite capture the right shade, it's a bit more green than seen, but pretty close. I'll try and get better shots later on in the process.
Kristian
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Kristan
Wow, I like it. This is an exciting part of the build.
I had never noticed that on the early cars the front radiator valence was different. Seems as if the radiator wouldn't sit as low in that config. Although, I suppose thay do or the hood wouldn't close; as I believe, the rads were the same height as later cars.
Wow, I like it. This is an exciting part of the build.
I had never noticed that on the early cars the front radiator valence was different. Seems as if the radiator wouldn't sit as low in that config. Although, I suppose thay do or the hood wouldn't close; as I believe, the rads were the same height as later cars.
Wonderful job Kristian! Congratulations on the beautiful paint job and color. Please keep posting more photos as you go.
Mark
Mark
I like the color as well. I'm not sure I would have had the courage to paint my car that color based on a color chip, but now that I see how it turns out I like it!
Nice job!
Nice job!
Thats beautiful. I love the creative colors, and that looks real nice. Can't wait to see that one done. You doing anything unique in respect to color on the interior?
I agree, it takes a brave sole to paint their car that color, now that I see it on a car, it looks fantastic.
I agree. Awesome colour. What colour will the interior be?
I love it!
Well done! Beautiful.
-G
-G
Colour choice is always difficult, but I wanted something different and authentic. As a kid my favorite toy was a mint-green pantera, so I wanted to go in that direction. In 1971, 3 greens were available and two of them, V305 medium green and V306 aqua green metallic were blue-green-like colours. PPG still had the formulas – so, after a test spray on the hood, I decided to go for the metallic.
I have to admit I was quite nervous before seing the end-result, but as it turned out, I'm really happy with it. The paintshop guys loved the car and the challenge from the beginning, and I think they put an extra finesse into it. The result is stunning up close - it's mirror straight.
I’ll try to keep the car as original appearing as possibly, including the interior, yet making technical upgrades to make it more reliable. Pretty much every part on this car is being replaced with NOS or repro parts, but I’m still trying to stay with the spirit of an early pre-production car.
JT, the chassis of the early euro cars are different in many, many areas, the valence being one of them. The radiater is the same as on later cars and it fits nicely into the valence. It actually rests on the bottom of it !
Kristian
I have to admit I was quite nervous before seing the end-result, but as it turned out, I'm really happy with it. The paintshop guys loved the car and the challenge from the beginning, and I think they put an extra finesse into it. The result is stunning up close - it's mirror straight.
I’ll try to keep the car as original appearing as possibly, including the interior, yet making technical upgrades to make it more reliable. Pretty much every part on this car is being replaced with NOS or repro parts, but I’m still trying to stay with the spirit of an early pre-production car.
JT, the chassis of the early euro cars are different in many, many areas, the valence being one of them. The radiater is the same as on later cars and it fits nicely into the valence. It actually rests on the bottom of it !
Kristian
I was there. When I initially saw the colour sample I was a bit sceptic, but in real life it looks great.
And it is a good paint job. I used to paint myself, so I know what to look for, I saw no sags, orange peel, wobbles or anything.
A very good foundation for assembling.
And it is a good paint job. I used to paint myself, so I know what to look for, I saw no sags, orange peel, wobbles or anything.
A very good foundation for assembling.
Do I miss the holes for the rear bumpers Kristian?
Cool colour btw!
Cool colour btw!
GORGEOUS!!! Well done! Definitely keep the pictures coming!
quote:Do I miss the holes for the rear bumpers Kristian?
Kid, I had to weld shot the bumper holes front and rear, as they were quite a bit enlarged and ruined. I will be re-drilling them in the correct positions when I get my bumpers back from chroming.
quote:Originally posted by Push1267:
Kid, I had to weld shot the bumper holes front and rear, as they were quite a bit enlarged and ruined. I will be re-drilling them in the correct positions when I get my bumpers back from chroming.
Oh, I'd be afraid doing such, and test-fit all (and drill holes) before the expensive paint job...
Wow, awesome color. Can't wait to see it all done. Are you going black or 'silver' on the trim? And I urge you to consider 'euro' side marker light, nothing in the rear. It looks like NO side markers? That looks good too!
I'll be keeping the chrome trim - very early cars have high quality solid brass chromed window trim all around and I'll keep it that way. Square bumpers are being rechromed.
And you are right - this car never had side marker lights (early euro cars don't), the small holes in the front fenders are for round turn-signals.
Kristian
And you are right - this car never had side marker lights (early euro cars don't), the small holes in the front fenders are for round turn-signals.
Kristian
Terrific color. Admire your bravery. Often at shows, auctions, the cars in period-correct but 'different' colors draw the judges/bidders attention.
Well done on that color and you committment to this project. It's going to be fantastic!
Well done on that color and you committment to this project. It's going to be fantastic!
Wow! I love the color, honest! Great job. I hope to post similar pics at the end of this year.
That metallic colour is truely magnific.
Totally different shade in real sunlight.
Great project!! Thanks Kristian
cheers. Peter
Totally different shade in real sunlight.
Great project!! Thanks Kristian
cheers. Peter
AH HA! I have been looking for this car! Kristan.. It looks great. Very nice paint and color... Single slot wheels. How are you putting it back.....? as original? better than? highly modified? I'm glad for ya' Keep posting your progress! Bill 1362
Beautiful color. I see the new Fluidyne and signs that a 427 is on it's way in. Let's see some shots of the engine bay and interior before you put it all back together.
... here's a picture of the engine bay. It's a bit dusty and greasy so it looks nicer when cleaned up.
I wanted the "raw" look, i.e., to keep all the spotwelds and handwelded sheetmetal visible. Remember these first early cars are truely handbuild and fx the inner wheel wells are formed by several pieces that are welded together. Thus, after sandblasting and zink-treatment, we only epoxy primed it and gave it a couple of layer of satin black. All the seem-welds are visible now - you may see some of them in the picture.
I'm trying to keep the original look but combine it with performance updates that won't overpower the fantastic original design. Therefore the original retro-color, powder coated single-slot campy clones - and the 427.
Motor is a NEW winsor stroker dyno'ed at approx 535 HP (I still have the original quench head cleveland). Transmission is the original dash 1 1/2 (I think) with the lower 1-4 gears and high 5th gear (0,705). Transaxle has been gone over, repacked and safety-wiring checked (It may have been wired from the factory). Clutch is a Mcleod diaphram type which rides an aluminum flywheel.
This is truly a nut-and-bolt restoration so every single part is being replaced, rebuilt or updated. The suspension has fx been completely rebuilt incl a NASCAR brake kit from Bobby Byars, heim joints, larger sway bars, all bushings, ball joints and bolts replaced, new billet axles, double roller bearing conversion, new steering rack etc, etc. Only regret is the Aldan double adjustable coil-overs - I may have bought another product had I known better back then, but we'll see how they perform in the future, before I make a decision.
I'm waiting for some parts to update the alloy fuel tank before it goes in - then the motor is next.
Kristian
I wanted the "raw" look, i.e., to keep all the spotwelds and handwelded sheetmetal visible. Remember these first early cars are truely handbuild and fx the inner wheel wells are formed by several pieces that are welded together. Thus, after sandblasting and zink-treatment, we only epoxy primed it and gave it a couple of layer of satin black. All the seem-welds are visible now - you may see some of them in the picture.
I'm trying to keep the original look but combine it with performance updates that won't overpower the fantastic original design. Therefore the original retro-color, powder coated single-slot campy clones - and the 427.
Motor is a NEW winsor stroker dyno'ed at approx 535 HP (I still have the original quench head cleveland). Transmission is the original dash 1 1/2 (I think) with the lower 1-4 gears and high 5th gear (0,705). Transaxle has been gone over, repacked and safety-wiring checked (It may have been wired from the factory). Clutch is a Mcleod diaphram type which rides an aluminum flywheel.
This is truly a nut-and-bolt restoration so every single part is being replaced, rebuilt or updated. The suspension has fx been completely rebuilt incl a NASCAR brake kit from Bobby Byars, heim joints, larger sway bars, all bushings, ball joints and bolts replaced, new billet axles, double roller bearing conversion, new steering rack etc, etc. Only regret is the Aldan double adjustable coil-overs - I may have bought another product had I known better back then, but we'll see how they perform in the future, before I make a decision.
I'm waiting for some parts to update the alloy fuel tank before it goes in - then the motor is next.
Kristian
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Wouldn't do it any different Kristian!
I'm "collecting" modern parts for a future "rebuild", but all of what will be upgraded/updated will need to be "hidden". If I were to make an old car look like new, then I better bought myself a modern car... It's 40 year old, and its age is just one of those aspects which makes these cars beautiful (imo).
I'm a big fan of those old riveted planes too btw
That is lookin' good.. check out the inner door frames are painted.. NICE original spot welds at the rear.. Maybe you should re aneall the wheels. ... or... I heard roumers of 427...on.. How are going to finish... street raider? all original ? daily driver? I notice an extra member down low... On 1362 the sections of frame there have 3/8 plates welded on each side. It was done nice... at the factory??? in the US at a dealer??? who knows? Your car is looking great. Thanks for sharing... Bill 1362
Something nice about those spot welds. I would have smoothed all but seeing it done like this makes me think differently. Nice pics. Keep them coming as you go.
Bill, I'm sure someone in here know's a lot more about the ford update program than I, but the frame plates you are referring to were part of that US chassis update program.
My car was destined for the european market so it never "benefitted" from those updates. Funnily, the chassis reinforcements appeared for a while in '71, then disappeared again sometime in '72 ? So, mayby they figured they were not needed anyways.
My car, and I think all cars before chassis 285, also avoided the frontal-impact reinforcements introduced after the first crash test. I counted 26 reinforcemnets that are MISSING from my car compared to after chassis 285 !!!! The reinforcements are primary in the front and inside the capin towards the trunk. So, the early cars are somewhat lighter - but, DON'T get into a head-on accident
On the other hand, the earlies cars were heavily reinforced around the suspension/coil-over mounts front and rear, something that disappeared when they tooled for production in 71. Then, when the early '71 cars arrived in the US, they re-introduced some of them (well they were different) again. They, of course disappeared again later on in '72.
Did they have any idea of what they were doing?
Kristian
My car was destined for the european market so it never "benefitted" from those updates. Funnily, the chassis reinforcements appeared for a while in '71, then disappeared again sometime in '72 ? So, mayby they figured they were not needed anyways.
My car, and I think all cars before chassis 285, also avoided the frontal-impact reinforcements introduced after the first crash test. I counted 26 reinforcemnets that are MISSING from my car compared to after chassis 285 !!!! The reinforcements are primary in the front and inside the capin towards the trunk. So, the early cars are somewhat lighter - but, DON'T get into a head-on accident
On the other hand, the earlies cars were heavily reinforced around the suspension/coil-over mounts front and rear, something that disappeared when they tooled for production in 71. Then, when the early '71 cars arrived in the US, they re-introduced some of them (well they were different) again. They, of course disappeared again later on in '72.
Did they have any idea of what they were doing?
Kristian
Sorry, what I ment to say was that I, with strategic help from MikeD and Kirk Evans, have reinforced the chassis in selected areas and are adding the usual extra cross members to help chassis flex (although I've done it a little differently).
Kristian
Kristian
Hi Kristian
Yes, now I can see what you talked about, very nice color
Any new pic to share?
/Henrik
Yes, now I can see what you talked about, very nice color
Any new pic to share?
/Henrik
Well, lots of pictures but not too much progress 
.
Although motivation is high after SPA ITALIA I simply can't find time to work on it properly. But I do manage to sneak in a few hours here and there.
I did bring it back to the paintshop the week before the SPA event for an engine bay respray. I wasn't really happy with how it turned the fist time, so we sanded it carefully and sprayed it again - now it's as I wanted it in the first place
Kristian
. Although motivation is high after SPA ITALIA I simply can't find time to work on it properly. But I do manage to sneak in a few hours here and there.
I did bring it back to the paintshop the week before the SPA event for an engine bay respray. I wasn't really happy with how it turned the fist time, so we sanded it carefully and sprayed it again - now it's as I wanted it in the first place
Kristian
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The original Gr4 tailight are on as are the alloy fuel tank, water tanks and a few other things. Started sorting the wiring now - auuuuch, I may need some help there.
Kristian
Kristian
... engine bay as of today ...