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side view added in post 1.   to me, the look is fine, just having the shadow line level was a slight surprise

I have rebuilt Koni 1701/1702 with the spacer.   the springs are either GTS or GT5,   both front and rear "look" same with 7 coils.   15" wheels with 215/255 60's

for the roads around here, I need the little bit raised.

The factory stance measurements are shown in the red Owners manual and the nose is slightly higher than the rear. Probably due to DOT bumper-height requirements that some cops once used as an excuse to write a ticket. The way they measured from the chassis underneath is because there's not a dependably straight reference line on the whole body! With the nose an inch or so lower than stock, high speed handling is far less 'floaty' and looks more aggressive.

@bosswrench posted:

The factory stance measurements are shown in the red Owners manual a....

red owner's manual page 71 provides overall dimensions, only "stance" is 44.1 inches for overall height.

years back I purchased (from ad here) a set of Konis AND supposedly GT5 springs.    a visual of the springs shows NO difference front to rear.   My notes were all had 7 active coils, but the wire diameters for front with 0.55 and 0.56" rear.   reaching at arms lenght, with dial caliper, installed appears to be backwards.   I couldn't see the shock bases to see if they too were in error.

any one have knowledge of the GT5 spring dimensions (and other than measuring  and comparing spring rate how to tell front from rear

1974 Lusso Pantera

All Measurements in Inches and taken from Floor Surface unless otherwise Noted.

Rad Support Ground Clearence, Front and Center: 4.0"

TOP Nose LIP Centered Lid Closed: 17-1/8"

TOTAL Height of Roofline Centered: 42-5/8"

Top of Decklid Rear Centered (Not including raised center strip): 31-7/8"

Top of WING at Highest Point REAR Edge: 42-1/2"

Decklid to TOP of Wing (Highest Point): 9-7/8"

Decklid to Bottom of Wing (Spacing Between): 5-1/2"

WING WIDTH: Front 56-3/4" Rear 56-3/8"

FRONT, Left and Right (Equal) Wheel Well LIP: 23-3/4". Lip Clearence Above Tire (Equal) 1-1/2"

REAR, Left and Right (Equal) Wheel Well Lip: 27-1/2". Lip Clearence Above Tire (Equal) 1-1/2"


FRONT: LEFT 4-1/4" RIGHT 4-1/4"

REAR: LEFT 6-1/2" RIGHT 6-5/8"

TIRES/PSI: Front 205/50-15 34PSI, Rear 295/50-15 35PSI

SHOCKS: Q1A  Front 450, Rear 550. Bounce Settings ALL 4 at 7/12's. NO Jounce setting.

RAKE ANGLE: Nose Down...Using Trigonometry, Not Necessary for the Floor to Be Level, Just Flat to take the Measurements From: At the Pinch Weld, The Difference in Heights= 2.38" Over a Total Length of 64.0" Equates to 2.13 Degrees. Equals 2* 7' 47" Degrees, Minutes, Seconds...for those who need to be Exact!

NOTE: Nose Down is a 'Rake'. From the 60's, a Tail Down Attitude is Known as a 'Power Dump'!* See following Reply.   

Last edited by marlinjack

...Back in Time, we use to See the Older Corvettes, 'Punch' the Accelerator. They were So Fast. The Unique thing that stood out, the Rear of the Car would do a 'Squat'! If anyone here has ever read the Book 'How to make Your Car Handle'. There is a Note mentioned in it..."When ever the (Driven) Rear of a Car, Squats, it does this by Compressing the Suspension Spring(s)...and in doing so, the Car is in Effect, Lifting the Rearend and Tires, Off the Ground...Loosing Traction!" ONE reason Vettes can very easily Break the tires Loose, as in a Demo 'Burn-Out', Also!! Loosing 'It' when Accelerating 'Hard' out of  'Road Course', Turn. It was once Believed, the 'Squat' would 'Deliver' More Torque to the Road, On Power. Because it 'Looked' as if the Car was 'Forcing' the Tires into the Ground. It proved just the Opposite!  The 'Power Dump', The Trick of having the Tail at a Angle LOWER than the Front, Proved a Cure for the Squatting and Traction Lose!! Instead of Squatting, the Car would 'Jump' Forward, from Greater Traction!

Just food for thought FWIW.

Last edited by marlinjack

OK..... the "sill" is the  "rocker" panel and follows the assembly weld or the "pinch weld" you mention.  The pinch weld runs parallel to the flat surface on the "sill/rocker"bottom and an easy place to put a digital ° gauge. Actually, I don't really care if it is exact or not and  was just checking out of interest to see how much nose down my car has.  My "floor" is my 4 point lift with the thing fairly level at least by checking with a long bubble gauge. The nose down attitude is  due (on my car at least) to the difference in   diameter of the   "huge"  rear tires and smaller  front tires. I have no idea if the pinch weld is parallel to the roll center line. I was only concerned visually in relation to the ground.

Last edited by Dan A.

based upon feedback from the email group, it seems the used grp4 springs I purchased were not correct.  (pays your money, take your chances)

That provided feedback had significant wire diameters differences

"The wire diameters on the Hall Pantera Group 4 springs are about .562" front and .623" rear"

So for now, Given so little "expected" difference in rate I'll not have shop swap

Last edited by jfb05177

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