Stock Starter issue on High compession Engine

matgMember

Team,
the engine was rebuild from a Cobra Jet Q code (8:1 static i guess) with open chamber heads 74.x cc to a higher compression engine. Static now app 10.4 , dynamic app 8.
The Starter is the original from dimension the "big monster starter". Starter is in top shape with new brushes and polished collector.

When Enginge cold no problem to start, starter cranks good, no Fail!

When Engine hot starter dose not crank, goes on block. (engine stopped at intersection as carb still in adjustment process..needed to push the CAT

)
1) Bat is top end
2) power cable is the old black one with good connection to starter and on Bat side (I will def re-tighten)
3) ground is provided via direct chassis connection (10" from starter to chassis bars)
4) starter sits on the 2 screws, tightened ..

what is your thought..hight torque starter? recommendations? Issues?

Tx
Matthias

8/6/181:06 AM

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noreasterMember

I think a PMGR starter is what you need. I switched from a stock starter to a Ford version of this one offered by DB Electric. In 12 years it has never failed me, hot or cold.
Very minor rewiring required. Move one large cable on the existing firewall solenoid and add a new 12 ga.jumper between the new and old solenoids. Instructions are included.
https://www.dbelectrical.com/p...ns-3223-sfd0012.html

8/6/188:01 AM

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jfb05177Member

hope you don't mind my rambling thoughts...

would the starter spin the hot motor IF the ignition was off (no spark from coil)?

If so, could you use an ignition kill switch to allow starter to spin motor a second, then apply spark to crank

just my keyboard thoughts

8/6/188:53 AM

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kimkMember

You could try with a heatshield if headers are to close. To hot starter is common with headers.

8/6/189:30 AM

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4vandproudMember

from experience, change the ground cable at the first sign of a hot re-start issue

next thing to look at is your initial timing may be just a little too much

and a heat shield is just basic common sense, very easy to fab & install with a couple hose clamps or even tack weld to the header tube

8/6/182:55 PM

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George PAdmin.

try reducing the static ignition advance.

8/6/184:06 PM

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matgMember

ok I see
so looks like the the "big monster starter" should serve the deal for my engine!
Was wondering..

will first add the recommended heat shield as the header/ex. tube passes by very closely.
(the symptoms go along with it: within max 5 min after shut down the cranking works!)

then I will take further actions..
keep you posted

Matthias

8/6/1811:29 PM

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matgMember

ok further investigaton status...
- all cabeling is good
- but found the bold AT the starter for Bat+ a bit loose (the copper screw against the inside fixture screw!) - oh boy may fault, as I did overhaul all myself. Will try later to reach it. Probably require some "tuning on my tools"..

keep you posted

Matthias

8/7/182:52 AM

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panteradougMember

Starter torque is lost in the diminishing outside diameter of the armature.

That can happen two ways, wear of the brushes against it, a rebuild that cuts the armature smooth on a lathe.

With a full armature, there is rarely a problem.

Solution: a new "high torque" starter OR an ignition that retards the advance at start.

Both the Motorcraft and the Pantera-Electronics do that.

Given the choice between the two, I settled on the Pantera-Electronics simply because it is the only ignition that I know of that fires a fouled spark plug and will clean it up while running.

The Motorcraft and MSD do not.

I have an Accell starter on my Pantera. A Tilton race starter on my 347 in my GT350. Both work fine on hot engines.

8/7/183:52 AM

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