if you have a pantera clutch in. Can the Throwouyt Bearing still touch the fingers a little? If so, Why would it?
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Not sure what you mean by the clutch being "in"? When the clutch pedal is not being pushed the throwout may or may not touch the clutch fingers depending on how its adjusted. And with some clutches, one of the fingers may be slightly 'high' relative to the others so it touches sooner. Such clutches are hard to adjust properly.
Later model throwout bearings are constant-contact types in which the throwout bearing face is designed to ALWAYS touch the clutch fingers. This yields longer bearing life and less clutch finger wear since the bearing is always in contact and spinning, not sitting idle, then instantly being accelerated to whatever rpm the flywheel is at whenever we jab the clutch pedal.
Later model throwout bearings are constant-contact types in which the throwout bearing face is designed to ALWAYS touch the clutch fingers. This yields longer bearing life and less clutch finger wear since the bearing is always in contact and spinning, not sitting idle, then instantly being accelerated to whatever rpm the flywheel is at whenever we jab the clutch pedal.
I put a new throw out bearing in and a new clutch. The problem I now have and did not have before is, When I step on the gas, It will drive normal and get up to speed. But, Anytime I step on the gas a lot more the engine just spins. Should I have also changed the pressure plate? It ran before the change.
quote:Originally posted by webbers:
I put a new throw out bearing in and a new clutch. The problem I now have and did not have before is, When I step on the gas, It will drive normal and get up to speed. But, Anytime I step on the gas a lot more the engine just spins. Should I have also changed the pressure plate? It ran before the change.
Looks to me from your previous posts that you had the problem also with the old Clutch? If you want to be sure that Throw out Bearing is not activating the Clutch even when the Pedal is not pushed why don´t you just adjust it so it does not touch?
quote:Originally posted by webbers:
I put a new throw out bearing in and a new clutch. The problem I now have and did not have before is, When I step on the gas, It will drive normal and get up to speed. But, Anytime I step on the gas a lot more the engine just spins. Should I have also changed the pressure plate? It ran before the change.
http://www.panteraplace.com/page124.htm
quote:Originally posted by Peter Fenlon:quote:Originally posted by webbers:
I put a new throw out bearing in and a new clutch. The problem I now have and did not have before is, When I step on the gas, It will drive normal and get up to speed. But, Anytime I step on the gas a lot more the engine just spins. Should I have also changed the pressure plate? It ran before the change.
http://www.panteraplace.com/page124.htm
also
I had this info from McCloud.
The pressure plate needs 12.7mm of travel from the time the bearing touches the fingers to full release.
You should get about 1.524mm gap between the pressure plate and disc at the time of full release.
And finally (although this puzzles me) hydraulics should be fully bled and you have a gap between the bearing face and the fingers of 2.54 to 6.35 when the pedal is in the home position
Good luck with it, its a quirky area for certain. Pete
First do you have a T.O.B. with removable rings? Did you remove one of the rings on the throw-out bearing body? Theirs two rings, one must be removed. The rings are so fitted that they don't look like their removable, but they are. They are held on by oil rings, I had to get it started off with a very small flat blade screwdriver. Also the trunnion rod (in the slave unit) that actuates the clutch arm should be almost loose when the clutch is released.Also put a small dab of grease on the sleeve shaft the T.O.B. rides on. I don't think it makes a difference, but I have a duel clutch.
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I have a 3 Finger Clutch. What ring? It`s one piece.
quote:Originally posted by webbers:
I have a 3 Finger Clutch. What ring? It`s one piece.
chris means the release bearing. I haven't seen this before But as I said earlier McCloud make the clutch pressure plate I am not certain who makes the default clutch release bearing.
You said you had a throw out bearing from McLeod, they have removable rings that determine the reach of the trow out bearing, they come off the throw out bearing housing McLeod part #16525
If you are not using this part than disregard that part of the post. But, the slave trunnion adjustment is the same. If your flywheel is worn out, that could also make your clutch slip, But the main thing is you always replace or have checked your pressure plate, they are not interchangeable between brands, a three fingered McLeod pressure plate is not the same as a 3 fingered Ram pressure plate. you always resurface the flywheel when installing a new clutch.
If you are not using this part than disregard that part of the post. But, the slave trunnion adjustment is the same. If your flywheel is worn out, that could also make your clutch slip, But the main thing is you always replace or have checked your pressure plate, they are not interchangeable between brands, a three fingered McLeod pressure plate is not the same as a 3 fingered Ram pressure plate. you always resurface the flywheel when installing a new clutch.
The removeable Rings mentioned on the McLeod ToB is default when you buy it. Hereafter it is intended that you make measurements and find the right combination of those Rings for your specific Clutch. That was at least the case when I bought my McLeod Clutch "KIT" in 2013 from Panteraperformance. The Rings are all in different thickness hence they can be combined in quite a few combinations. That way you can ensure adequate play between the ToB and the Preasure Plate. It requires that the measurements and conclusive combination of Rings are made BEFORE the Transaxle is put back On the Engine again. If you did not remove at least one of the default Rings it is likely that your ToB is constantly pressing on the Pressure Plate which is BAD BAD BAD on a Pantera!
Forgive me webbers but it makes me confused why you have so much troubble with your Clutch. You have in a few Years started HALF A DOZEN NEW THREADS all about your Clutch problems? Check back with some of those Threads and also check the Links provided by other Posters they explain exactly and very detailed how to do the Job and you might actually find exactly the info you are looking for. I encourage you to strictly follow those descriptions and do your self a favour and skip shortcuts i.e. not using all new/good (and Pantera specific) Parts.
Also if you do a manual search in the Forum there is really a lot of valid info on Clutch related stuff.
Forgive me webbers but it makes me confused why you have so much troubble with your Clutch. You have in a few Years started HALF A DOZEN NEW THREADS all about your Clutch problems? Check back with some of those Threads and also check the Links provided by other Posters they explain exactly and very detailed how to do the Job and you might actually find exactly the info you are looking for. I encourage you to strictly follow those descriptions and do your self a favour and skip shortcuts i.e. not using all new/good (and Pantera specific) Parts.
Also if you do a manual search in the Forum there is really a lot of valid info on Clutch related stuff.
Thank. The Flywheel looked good, so I thought it was ok. Maybe that's why I`m slipping.
I think it is because there is no play between your ToB and the Pressure plate which means your Clutch is already pressed even before you step on your Clutch Pedal combined with that you used an Old Pressure Plate. And yes the Flywheel should have been grinded fresh.