Skip to main content

Me. Again. I am in the process of installing the uprights on the lower rear a-arms and the first one is fighting me.

A couple of questions:

1) I am using an 8” C clamp to compress the cups. Do I need to be concerned with the amount of compression I put on the cups?

2) I read that folks use a piece of wood on the upright to strike the hammer. Where on the upright is the wood placed?

Thanks in advance. Shashi

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Hi Sashi -

I used a long bar-clamp that I could eventually slide off, as the cups went into the A-Arm.

I am sure you are being very careful to ensure the pins are in the holes in the flat washers.

It was a struggle for me to get everything aligned and slid into the A-Arm as well.

Check out the next post for my pictures.

Good luck -

Rocky

Last edited by rocky

I didn't have to resort to that.

I had to support the upright on a jackstand or something - I think it was a stack of 4x4's.  Then with the clamp on the two endcaps on the upright, I was able to slide it into the gap in the A-Arm, with the A-Arm ends gradually pushing the clamp out of the way.

Once it was part way in, I was able to slide it in with just some mild persuasion from my hands.

If you have a big dial caliper you could measure things to be sure it will fit with the clamp on...  If you had added an extra washer (or two) in there by accident, it would not fit.

My problem was just keeping everything together for the initial insertion.  I agree it's pretty tricky

Good luck

Here's the kit I used...Pantera_Performance_KitDrivers_Side_09_Aug_2019 [4) [Large)

Attachments

Images (2)
  • Pantera_Performance_Kit
  • Drivers_Side_09_Aug_2019 (4) (Large)
Last edited by rocky

FWIW, my installation in 2004 was relatively easy as Rocky states. I used a wooden dowel and plenty of grease to keep all the washers and such together and aligned before holding everything together with a clamp. I was then able to slide the whole operation into the lower control arm with minimum effort. I used the Pantera East kit with greaseable shafts.

Rear Upright StackupDowel AlignmentClampUpright in Place

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Dowel Alignment
  • Clamp
  • Upright in Place
  • Rear Upright Stackup

You must have the special, “tight tolerance” lower A-Arms!

Is that from a vendor?  Better tell them.

Honestly, I’d consider taking them to a machine shop to get 1/32 precision removed on each side to make sure the lower upright mating is precise, and the alignment of the upper & lowers is maintained…

Rocky

Part of the trick is shown in Rocky's photo of the components with their thicknesses marked on them.

You may find that your vendors parts are not the same thickness as what you removed. The overall dimension of the 'stacked' parts must be a tight fit between the eyes in the A arm. Referring to Rocky's photo of the Wilkinson parts sheet, that would be items  12 (cups), 13 (stepped washers), 17 (shim washers) and 19 (the sleeve). A tight fit will pinch the sleeve when the through bolt is tightened and keep it stationary. These parts can be test fitted between the A arm eyes without the heavy upright or the O rings in place.

A sloppy fit may allow the sleeve to rotate on the shaft instead of in your nice new bushings.

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×