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as I am working on the upgrades on my brakes to Wilwood I discovered something really funny and disturbing:

the poly bushings do not have an insert never saw anything like that!

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i’m going to replace them with the original style rubber bushings



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I also replaced the dust covers on the ball joints (which absolutely felt like new) , which was a very simple and satisfying procedure!  Pulled out  the old remains and took out the spiral spring steel ring that holds the dust cover in place!

cleaned out all the old grease and repack them with new ones and put the new dust covers I got on Amazon on and “screwed “ the spiral ring back in position!

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Last edited by LeMans850i
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😁 I got my value pack of 120 Zerk fittings today…. Metric!!



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originally I thought I’m gonna go poly bushings, but it makes no sense for me… I hear about too many squeaking problems (Zerk fittings original use) and I’m not racing that car… Just a lightly spirited driver…

I will poke the ball joints front and rear and the bottom of the upright (long bolt axle)! I will also replace the rock hard polys of the sway bars!
Then… it’s time for the new brake calipers and the “NEW” turned brake discs! They will have to do until there is a valid solution to get real new brake discs made!

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Last edited by LeMans850i
@LeMans850i posted:


originally I thought I’m gonna go poly bushings, but it makes no sense for me… I hear about too many squeaking problems (Zerk fittings original use) and I’m not racing that car… Just a lightly spirited driver…

FWIW , I have the poly graphite bushings from Dennis Quella pantera performance center. Notable about this version are the metal bushings which are hexagonal in shape and thus do not rotate in the poly bushings.

I know Poly bushings are rightly criticized for often squeaking, but with this version I have driven over 50,000 miles and I’m still waiting to hear the first squeak from my suspension  😉

Larry
Last edited by lf-tp2511

Put back together with grease fittings on the lower long bushing… I wasn’t sure about the ball joints with the detent top center but they have new dust caps and grease! New wheel bearings and bushings!

it was a fight… poly bushings without a sleeve are very dumb idea… it took some careful massaging of the upper ears to get the proper clearance for the bushings!

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Last edited by LeMans850i

There is an updated version of the of the factory style bushing that is teflon lined and thus does not restrict a-arm movement as it turns.  It feels somewhat like a bearing and the a-arms get unrestricted full range of motion.

Do you have a link to those bushings?

I still have to take my front apart…

and I try to get smart on the camber lock issue…. to do or not to do…

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grease Nippel

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Last edited by LeMans850i

Just want to share a very nice “upgrade” Hans from PI Motorsports told me:

To reinstall the swaybar end bushing caps I got 10.8 grade bolts and installed them from the bottom up to act like studs…

I loosened the nuts on the rear bushings 2 turns and it was not much effort to get the caps on the A-arm studs.. 2 self locking nuts a side… evenly turned in, piece of cake!
on the front I did the same thing (didn’t loosen the 2 other bushing caps) just with only one bolt from the bottom up because there was enough room for the second one, but he was enough guidance to pop the cap on and install the second bolt from the top down.



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I am sure there are quite some cross threaded cap bolts out there - this is a nice way to prevent it!  Unless you are lucky enough to be a mutant with a remote eyeball and 3 Hands and Hulk Hogen strong 💪 .

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