weirdest Poly bushings ??!!

something else you can easily do since everything is sitting on the workbench is to drill and tap your ball joint bottoms and install Zerk fittings.

Larry

😁 I got my value pack of 120 Zerk fittings today…. Metric!!

originally I thought I’m gonna go poly bushings, but it makes no sense for me… I hear about too many squeaking problems (Zerk fittings original use) and I’m not racing that car… Just a lightly spirited driver…

I will poke the ball joints front and rear and the bottom of the upright (long bolt axle)! I will also replace the rock hard polys of the sway bars!
Then… it’s time for the new brake calipers and the “NEW” turned brake discs! They will have to do until there is a valid solution to get real new brake discs made!

@LeMans850i posted:

originally I thought I’m gonna go poly bushings, but it makes no sense for me… I hear about too many squeaking problems (Zerk fittings original use) and I’m not racing that car… Just a lightly spirited driver…

What would be the advantage to the original rubber bushings in street driving?

I know they provide a more precise feeling and planting of the car (while increasing the stress on the chassis in race mode ) but would it be really noticeable if you run the 15” wheels with the “balloon” tires like I do…???

Put back together with grease fittings on the lower long bushing… I wasn’t sure about the ball joints with the detent top center but they have new dust caps and grease! New wheel bearings and bushings!

it was a fight… poly bushings without a sleeve are very dumb idea… it took some careful massaging of the upper ears to get the proper clearance for the bushings!

Great Progress, keep posting your progress.  Larry

There is an updated version of the of the factory style bushing that is teflon lined and thus does not restrict a-arm movement as it turns.  It feels somewhat like a bearing and the a-arms get unrestricted full range of motion.

What I got is in there… new and pressed in…

put back together

Those bushings will work fine and your workmanship looks great.

@stevebuchanan posted:

There is an updated version of the of the factory style bushing that is teflon lined and thus does not restrict a-arm movement as it turns.  It feels somewhat like a bearing and the a-arms get unrestricted full range of motion.

Do you have a link to those bushings?

I still have to take my front apart…

and I try to get smart on the camber lock issue…. to do or not to do…

grease Nippel

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29559...temis&media=COPY

@stevebuchanan posted:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29559...temis&media=COPY

Wilkinson… I wonder if he’s really closed

i call tomorrow…

thank you!!!!

do you have any thoughts on the camber Lock?

Roland, Wilkinson's is closed on Mobday, give him a call after 9am on Tuesday.

His eBay auction shows seller is away until February 17. Steve often takes some nice long vacations, often grabbing things from Italy. 🙂

Larry

Front taken apart

I also get the upper ball joints machined to move them slightly to the rear..

Just want to share a very nice “upgrade” Hans from PI Motorsports told me:

To reinstall the swaybar end bushing caps I got 10.8 grade bolts and installed them from the bottom up to act like studs…

I loosened the nuts on the rear bushings 2 turns and it was not much effort to get the caps on the A-arm studs.. 2 self locking nuts a side… evenly turned in, piece of cake!
on the front I did the same thing (didn’t loosen the 2 other bushing caps) just with only one bolt from the bottom up because there was enough room for the second one, but he was enough guidance to pop the cap on and install the second bolt from the top down.

I am sure there are quite some cross threaded cap bolts out there - this is a nice way to prevent it!  Unless you are lucky enough to be a mutant with a remote eyeball and 3 Hands and Hulk Hogen strong 💪 .

That swaybar trick is a good one!

a minor upgrade while I have everything apart…

one side, milled the thickness of the thick shim..

I think I took more off of mine than one shim thickness, but you have to have additional shims for the other side to make up the amount you remove…

Do you have a mill in your garage?

Rocky

New shim

sadly have no mill in my garage!

I had three skinny and one thick shim in front of the ball joint

I used that total measurement, and got one shim water jetted and the amount of the thick original shim milled off on one side of the ball joint.

this shim represents how much got milled off!

the new package!

if I would have all the tools in my garage I would be so much faster!

Original shim package

Nice work!

Looks like you’ve got it figured out!  And have skilled machinists you can call on!

Rocky

@rocky posted:

Nice work!

Looks like you’ve got it figured out!  And have skilled machinists you can call on!

Rocky

It takes a village to get everything right…

over time I became friends with many of the people who have business like machine shop, water jet, upholstery, brake/ fuel lines, powder coating .. and so on. Without them, things would take a lot more time… I know enough to be dangerous but to learn all their skills and get the tools to do the job … forget it… I’m already to old for that..

I am very grateful for all the people I can call on when little me is just not enough!

And we always have good and fun times

this forum with all the people who already did what I am doing right now is such a wealth of information… I’m reading and reading…. Picking things that I think may be an improvement and may add my own twist to it.. I love to do some crossover’s from my time working on  airplanes and motorcycles..and spending time working on the project is therapy for me..🤪

This job is done…everything torqued and plugged the last hole

it took a bit longer because this job got combined with the 6 piston wilwood brake kit.. and that is completed as well.. https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...sc-conversion?page=3

next I’m going for my external fuel filler mod https://pantera.infopop.cc/top...rnal-fuel-filler-mod

thank you for all your help… 🙏