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Good evening,

I'm typically a glass half full type of guy but I must say I'm livid after buying this brake upgrade kit and curious if others have had the same issues.

I have an early 72 pre-L and just spend $4200 on the kit.  So far, I've had to make .250" bracket spacers in addition to the included spacers to get the e-brake to work.

I moved onto the front this evening and found that the rotors have a clearance issue with the factory backing plates on the spindle.  I'm hoping that I can just remove them, and all is good.

I have an email into Scott, but he won't be very happy with my feedback and doubt I will get a response.

I haven't got to the master cylinder and brake line plumbing yet, so I expect more of the same fitment issues.

At this point, I would not recommend this kit.




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I put this same kit from Scott on my 72 Pre-L Pantera last year and they work great.

I believe the directions that came with my kit said to remove the backing plates for the front brakes.

More than happy to share any pics of the SAAC kit on my car or to answer any questions you might have if it will help.

Feel free to send me a PM if you would like and I can send you my phone etc...

Scott was amazing to deal with when I did my kit so I'm sorry you're having some problems.

I did have to go with larger rims than factory but was told that might be the case. The real issue was the e-brakes just rubbed on the inside of the rear rims and I didn't want to grind down the e-brake calipers to make them work. Scott warned me ahead of time that that might be an issue and I was planning on going with larger diameter rims to get better options for tires anyway.

I kept the factory master cylinder on my car but I replaced the factory proportioning valve with one that I brought from Larry Stock @ Pantera PArts Connection that had the guts removed. Had to send back my original to get a core charge back but it saved me from butchering up the factory brake lines.


Last edited by Oakster

Good Morning,

I would like to apologize for the ranting email, and I was not attacking Scott.  I also sent Scott an apology this morning.

I now see the dust shields need to be removed.

I still have the ebrake issue and will try to figure out why I'm needing the quarter inch spacer.

I've been working on this nights and weekends so I could have been more patient and called Scott during the week.


Hopefully I will have an amazing experience soon.

I have the complete Wilwood front/back setup. Calipers, rotors,+ebrake and M/C + proportioning valve.

I see my error of not removing the front dust covers after reading a 3rd time. *Embarrassing*

The issue now is the ebrake is extremely tight on the inside brake pad even though I have the pistons fully compressed.  It is so tight that I can't turn the rotor by hand and the outside ebrake pad isn't even touching the rotor.

There is basically no clearance after I tighten the ebrake bracket to the spindle. I made a .250" metal spacer to recenter everything.  I know this isn't needed so I have to be doing something wrong.  Seems pretty simple but no cigar yet.

I plan to remove the ebrake tonight and have a fresh look at it.




Images (1)
  • Ebrake Spacer Pic

Thanks Larry,

Scott had me make some measurements and we are working thru it now.

It appears there is something different with my car, as it doesn't have the standard rotor to spindle clearance, which is most likely why I had to fabricate rear spacers.

I've moved onto the fronts now and have similar clearance issues though not as drastic.  I'm having to add .070" washers between the caliper and spacer to center the pads properly.

Strange days indeed.


They are Wilwood hats and rotors.

I had to remove the rear axles to put new wheel studs on and starting to wonder if I put the rear assembly back together wrong?  I took pictures and reviewed the parts manual before putting back together.  I guess it is possible that the original owner could have had the assembly apart in the past or changed something.  The car was in storage for 35 years before I got it and was last on the road in 1985.

I'm considering removing the rear assembly and driving to Scott to compare to one of his, since I'm only 2hrs away.


Looks like the problem is solved.  I misinterpreted a step in the instructions and pressed the spacing washers on the wrong side of the rotor hats. 

I'm taking everything apart and repressing wheel studs to correct everything.

Thanks for Scotts and everyone's help.

If anyone has the rear axle nut tool for sale I'm interested.




Also, don't be afraid of torquing the axle nut really tight!. I checked the SAE  for torque notes and that size nut in mild steel strips at around 1200 ft-lbs! So I use 400-ft-lbs on my axles. A long time ago I bought a two-piece 0-600 ft-lb Snap-On torque wrench for this and other outrageously tight  jobs. Found on E-bay cheap 'cause you don't use them often. Weighs 12 lbs.

Thanks for the info.  I've had the nuts off once and know about the L and R threads.  The RF spindle actually has left-handed threads too.

I will hold off on the Loctite since it doesn't seem to be used for this job.

I took the axle nuts off with the Milwaukee impact with no problem the first time.  I was thinking I could use the impact first and then go back at it with my 600lb torque wrench.  I'm not as strong as I used to be so hopefully the 4ft wrench will give me enough leverage. 

I have a fixture setup using the original hubs.  Hoping to put the wheel studs thru it and tighten the lug nuts the back side.  Just hoping the vice will hold everything.



@jwelch68 posted:

Does anyone have an opinion on using an impact on the nut?  I have Milwaukee 1/2 drive that specs 450ft/lbs fastening torque and 650lbs busing torque.

I've done quite a few for one vendor and that's how we do them, crank the air up to 150 psi and use a high torque impact wrench. You can actually audibly here the sound change once it's fully seated and tight.

Last edited by joules

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