wiring the diff bolt

Yes- IF the ZF is out of the car! The two long crossbolts used to brace the ZF bearing side- plates run into numerous parts of the chassis, body and exhaust while being withdrawn, making it harder to remove the bottom cover without pulling the trans, than simply removing the box and doing the work on a bench. We use a socket called a 'crow-foot' on a torque wrench to tighten to specs; the wrench size depends on the bolts used.

A 'kit' of predrilled U.S-made gr-8 bolts from Pantera vendors will save you a giant amount of aggravation and result in a stronger bolt. Stock bolts were hardened all the way thru the shanks and heads, resulting in lots of broken drills and an inflexible fastener even if you succeed. The serrations under stock bolt heads are also useless as the ring gear surface is as hard- or harder- than the head serrations meant to dig in and help lock the bolt. 0.032" stainless aircraft safety wire available at any race shop or airport in the world is fine; some earlier ZFs were factory-wired using much larger, stiffer wire than is commonly used even in pro-racing. But all this IS worth it!

Here are some useful links:

http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...0045562/m/5040088763
http://www.panteraplace.com/page10.htm
http://pantera1998.blogspot.co...y-wiring-part-i.html
http://pantera1998.blogspot.co...-wiring-part-ii.html
http://pantera1998.blogspot.co...wiring-part-iii.html

And my own experience safety wiring my ZF is attached at this link since the file is too big to upload here.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bkli...20Transaxle.pdf?dl=0

Thanks for the very good information, I will have a summers running and do the job over winter, with fingers firmly crossed. Peter.