Ignition Switch Update

Gary,

Your initial post said you couldn't get the key inserted all the way into the lock. The new lock barrel from Graham naturally solved that problem.

The 'spring back' action comes from a spring in the electrical portion of the ignition assembly - the unit with the wires that is held to the barrel housing with two phillip head screws. Once it breaks, it is done. It is a spiral spring with an 'arm' at each end - probably not replaceable unless you happen to have a 'springs are us' store in your vicinity.

Fellow PIBB member Garth recently bought an NOS unit from Blitz Capri at a cost of $134.

I have several of these units, used, available for purchase.

Email me or give me a call.

Larry

559-281-3497

quote:

Fellow PIBB member Garth recently bought an NOS unit from Blitz Capri at a cost of $134.

Actually, I think I paid $145 plus $10 s/h from Blitz. But I think they now want $165 + s/h for the same part.

The first thing you might try is to take your old one apart to determine if the spring broke or merely popped out of alignment and is no longer doing its job. But, that's a real PITA!

Instead, buy one of Larry's used ones. It will cost a lot less and be a simple swap.

Best of luck!
Garth

FWIW - I finally got around to installing the new switch last night. Below is a pic of the old switch and the new switch. I had to cut the connector off the new switch and strip the ends of the wires to mount it to the Pantera's ignition terminal block.

Garth,
Did this fix the issue with the cylinder not popping back out ?

quote:

Did this fix the issue with the cylinder not popping back out?

FWIW, I wasn't having a problem with the cylinder not popping back out. My problem earlier this year was smoke rising from the dash - never a good sign. I traced it to the ignition switch. So, I replaced the lock tumbler which did nothing for the Lucas smoke feature, then realized the smoke was coming from the insulation on the wire on the back of the electrical switch component (pictured above).

The next step was to rebuild the electrical component according to the instructions at Pantera Place (http://www.panteraplace.com/page125.htm). I did this and life was good... for a few months.

Then, the "run" position on my switch started to not always run. There was a dead spot. And, over the next couple months, the dead spot seemed to increase in size and the "sweet spot" where the engine would continue to get juice became more and more elusive. My starting routine was to click the switch into the "run" position and wiggle it around until I heard the fans come on, pump the gas once, then turn the key to "start" and step on the gas once more as the engine popped to life. Then, I would release the key back to the "run" position and frantically try to find that "sweet spot" again before the engine died. Sometimes I hit it just right and no one could tell anything was amiss, but most of the time it would take 2-3 tries before I could keep it running. And once when I was going down the freeway I went over an expansion joint which was enough to cause the key to slip out of the sweet spot and the engine died - good thing traffic didn't come to a sudden stop because a non running engine means no power brakes. Anyway, I quickly reached for the key, moved it around in the "run" area, and brought her back to life (I never pushed in the clutch).

Anyway, to answer your question, the electrical switch does not play a role in popping the lock cylinder back out. That function occurs within the lock cylinder or within the pot metal switch housing.

Cheers!
Garth

quote:

the electrical switch does not play a role in popping the lock cylinder back out. That function occurs within the lock cylinder or within the pot metal switch housing.

Actually, it all takes place within the lock tumbler. That's if I understand correctly and you're referring to the way the tumbler mechanism gets depressed further into the housing before you can turn the key. If you're referring to something else popping back out, the I've misunderstood.