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quote:
Originally posted by Chris Wilson:
Hmmm i thought camber was to do with wheels! head scratch.

looks nice though Mark.

quote:
Originally posted by Mark Charlton:
quote:
Originally posted by Chris Wilson:
silly question, but what is an adjustable rear camber bar?



This?:



This does. It braces the rear structure so the rear camber can't change.
Chris, there are a number of designs sold but the best IMHO is Hall's square steel adjustable bar. This is currently the only commercial bar that has long ends that socket into the welded fender pockets, to take the cornering loads in the bar, not thru a pair of sheet metal tabs with slotted oversized holes & undersized bolts.
The Pantera usually has relaxed it's rear suspension such that the rear camber adjustment is maxed out and is still around -2 degrees. And while this is good for cornering at high speed, it's bad for inner-edge-wear on our ever-more-rare & pricy rear tires. With radial tires in 275 or larger widths, zero or minus 1/2 degree camber is a good compromise between cornering and edge wear.
So by being patient and adjusting a LITTLE pre-load via the adjustable camber bar, over a period of weeks you can usually progressively tease the rear suspension back to zero camber without issue. NOTE- if you get impatient and try to brutalize it back to zero all at once, you usually buckle one or both fender panels.
Thanks Jack.

This something ill look into on my next trip stateside so i can check them out and talk to a couple of you that have them.

thanks all for the info. never stop learning.

cheers Cj

quote:
Originally posted by Bosswrench:
Chris, there are a number of designs sold but the best IMHO is Hall's square steel adjustable bar. This is currently the only commercial bar that has long ends that socket into the welded fender pockets, to take the cornering loads in the bar, not thru a pair of sheet metal tabs with slotted oversized holes & undersized bolts.
The Pantera usually has relaxed it's rear suspension such that the rear camber adjustment is maxed out and is still around -2 degrees. And while this is good for cornering at high speed, it's bad for inner-edge-wear on our ever-more-rare & pricy rear tires. With radial tires in 275 or larger widths, zero or minus 1/2 degree camber is a good compromise between cornering and edge wear.
So by being patient and adjusting a LITTLE pre-load via the adjustable camber bar, over a period of weeks you can usually progressively tease the rear suspension back to zero camber without issue. NOTE- if you get impatient and try to brutalize it back to zero all at once, you usually buckle one or both fender panels.
quote:
Originally posted by Rocky:
It is really interesting, but I have my car up on jackstands now (for brake work) and what was once a tight spreader bar has noticable play...

I assume it will tighten back up when I put it back down on the tires...

Rocky


OK but can you recall ANYONE asking about why his car was cracking through the mounting tabs in the inner uprights? I can't.

By the same token, have you heard of anyone ask about erratic handling caused by rear camber changes while driving the car? I can't.

I definitely can understand this becoming an issue on a race car like a Gp4 with 13" rear wheels and race tires mounted, but the fix isn't that extravagant of a solution.

The Mustangs are considered semi-monocoque. Certainly the rears are completely monocoque.

All the additional bracing on them is in the front to reduce toe changes under hard cornering, and the bracing isn't that extravagant.

Yes you can improve the rear of the Pantera, but it is largely just for a comp car of some sort. Autocross is one of the conditions you could improve for, but just regular street driving, it isn't even close to being necessary.

The alignment is done on the ground with normal loading on the car. Set the pre-load on the bar then and leave it alone. Everything that happens to it after that is irrelevant.
Last edited by panteradoug
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