Skip to main content

Have my new Windsor 427 stroker and ZF installed.I would like to finish the front of my engine using a GM12si 100 amp alternator and also installing a Sanden SD508-134a a/c compressor.Has anyone done this and could you share the problems you encountered with this old
man?I have used Pantera vendors and would like to sincerely thank them for the excellent parts and their advice!
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Pantera-Electronics makes a kit for the alternator.

http://pantera-electronics.com/gm12sialternator.htm

You need a seat adapter for the rotatory compressor. Other than that it is strait forward and an easy bolt in.

Most of the vendors who sell the compressor also carry the adapter too.

While you are doing that work you might want to consider having pulleys made that will move the accessories back 1-1/2 inches?

Then you can almost eliminate the bubble in the bulkhead cover and move the passenger seat back all the way.

Then a real human being could be carried comfortably in the passenger seat for much more than five minutes without needing a chiropractor.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by r mccall:
Any interest in a set of 180 deg headers/
mufflers for your car?
I purchased the 180 exhaust several months ago,but not at the point of installation yet.
I have moved the a/c condenser to the front and still fighting that battle!!Do you know of a vendor that might offer a way to close the existing exhaust ports?
quote:
Originally posted by charlie hahn:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by r mccall:
Any interest in a set of 180 deg headers/
mufflers for your car?
I purchased the 180 exhaust several months ago,but not at the point of installation yet.
I have moved the a/c condenser to the front and still fighting that battle!!Do you know of a vendor that might offer a way to close the existing exhaust ports?


Which ports are you talking about?
quote:
Originally posted by r mccall:
Doug, I think that he is talking about the holes in the body where the original exhaust exits.
Plippe: PM sent on 180 deg headers


I suspect that Ron but wanted to hear from him.

There are at least two types of headers. The original type was on the Gp4 cars and they exited through the stock locations.

The current batch that caters to customers desire, runs the exhausts through the A/C condenser hole.

It's best to install the headers first and run them a while before you start patching the holes in the car.

They tend to be very loud (although you don't hear it much in the cabin) and you loose all of your trunk in the back.

the reason I say this is that there are those who found they could not live with the new exhausts and went back to stock.

This is a picture of an original Gp4 car (Warren Toppe's) with the "as delivered exhausts". They are exiting through the original locations.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • factory_group4_2824
Incidentally you don't necessarily have to loose the entire trunk, but modifying the fiberglass trunk liner isn't simple.

This is mine. I can't fit even the collapsible spare in it anymore because of the humps for the mufflers.

I'm working on getting the carpet right so you are seeing the adhesive along the edges of the cuts.

It is white in the picture.

The tub is about 3" deeper near the condenser, shallower by about 10" near the entry of the exhausts and about 14" shorter BUT it fits and I have more than some luggage space. Soft luggage is in order here now, and DON'T carry your ice cream and frozen groceries home from the market in there now. Wink

Attachments

Images (1)
  • shortened_trunk_2
Geez. I am thinking culinary activity. You could cook meat back there on a reasonable drive. We do an annual Pig Roast in Space City each year for the Pantera owners. I am thinking we throw a small pig in the back and in about the time it takes me to get to Gray's Ranch, about 90 minutes, it ought to be about medium temp. It would certainly smell better than the typical Pantera exhaust.
LOL! I'd have to run a meat thermometer back there when it's finished?

There is a 3" clearance between the trunk and the pipes and the side that you can't see gets lined with heat reflective kevlar.

I doubt that your average production vehicle today has that much room between the cats and the floorboards? About an inch is what I sampled.

The quick release Dsus fasteners the factory uses to hold the tub in place serve two purposes. One is to keep it place for safety reasons, including a roll over and two, the fiberglass needs to be pinned into place OR ELSE the heat warps it.

Don't believe me, run around with your trunk tub not button up into place for a few weeks then come back and try to get the Dzus fasteners to connect.

The tubs tend to warp and you will find that the correct left to right dimension is 54".
After it warps, the dimension will be 52-1/2". The Dsus fasteners will now miss their mounting by 3/4 to 1".

What this all means is there is heat natural to the rear trunk lining anyway.

If you are ever in the market for a used tub, make sure you check that it measures 54" wide. Apparently a lot of cars never had the Dzus reinstalled after engine work and they are warped pretty badly.

I definitely will test the temperature but I would still keep ordering my brick oven pizza from Carlo's. Wink

For a time shortened/modified tubs were offered by Hall. Cheap too. $250. Considering the time to do this, that was a bargain?

The insulation looks like this. It ain't cheap stuff. Spin-off from NASA.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • Kevlar_insulation
Last edited by panteradoug
quote:
Originally posted by JTpantera:
Well, maybe you can attach the insulation with velcro. That way you have the option to use it as an oven. :^)


Nah. I'd take out the tub and tie the pig to the headers and roast him. The headers are ceramic coated so they won't stain.

The mufflers are loud too so I won't have to listen to him screaming? Wink

Actually I don't care much for pork. I like beef better but I'd have to change the rear shocks and springs to handle the weight?

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×