Building a Gr4 replica

You can have his brakes, I'll "borrow" the wheels Too bad I'll need to cut the car though....

Maybe I should wait to see what kind of engine goes in, and steal - uh...borrow - that instead :-)

quote:

Originally posted by Push1267:
They are massive and according to the Team they gave them quite an advantage over the competition on brakes.

I believe that. The surface area of the brake pads is almost double that of the stock pads.

I was quoted $1900 for a front pair of the 18-4 aluminum "Girling" calipers but I doubt that they would fit the stock 8"x15" Campis.

The Aluminum Cobra/GT40/Mangusta calipers are available too but I don't see the point of spending that much money for single piston calipers.

Wilwood Ultralites are looking pretty good. 1/2 the price and fit the wheels. Like I said, "taste great, less filling".

These Allied's are sure pretty though. Too bad the brake dust is just going to eat them up alive?

Yes, I agree these calipers are primary for historic racing where you have to comply with regulations.

You can have several sets of Wilwoods for the price of one set of these Lockheeds !!

Below is another piece they developed - airintakes for the rear Windows. They bought the commen "ear-intakes" from the UIS vendors, and after deaming them "useless", they developed their own. They have two outlets, one for a closed airbox for the Webers, and the other for cooling of the fuel-tanks, one each side. I have the moulds for both intakes and airbox.

Here as they sit on the car - still need some trimming.

quote:

Maybe I should wait to see what kind of engine goes in, and steal - uh...borrow - that instead :-)

Well, I haven't gotten very far with the engine. Only thing I know for sure is that it has to be an iron head 351 C - and it will be dry sumped. FIA won't allow me to use alloy heads and block.

Just started looking into the placement of the motor - how far can I move it forward and how much can I lower it.

Too bad for me, good for you

Won't be the engine I will steal, as I have my mind set of a an alloy block and heads :-)

Need to rob a bank first though...lol Might need a fast car for that - can I borrow yours when it is finished? ;-)

Hey Push... those ducts are some cool pieces.
Would it also be feasible then to use one of the duct tubes to run to the rear brakes..?? Do both sides have the dual tubes?

Rob, both scoops have two ducts. I suppose one of the ducts could be used for cooling of the brakes, but I'm not sure airflow is effective enough along the sidescoops.
I do have seperate scoops they designed that sits underneath the car and direct air to the rear brakes. Same principle as the original Gr4 cars, but different design.

I've started on my aluminum doorskin project - just like the Gr4 cars had. Started on the driver side door by pulling the steel doorskin of a perfectly fine and rustfree door !! :-).

Here's the door without the skin (great Picture, right?). Note the side protection bar.

Here's the door after removal og the side bars and some hitten lightening of the door frame where possible.

The door skin need to be shaped to fit the doorframe, so don't attempt to mount these skins without access to a crimp/streatcher Tool. I did quite a bit of Work on the skin to make sure it would fit in the door opening and follow the contours of the fenders.

Here crimping the rear face of the skin.

More "persuasion"

Door ready for the skin!!

Jep - it fits!!

Then, slowly bending the edges with a hammer.

Rear seam in progress

Bottom part

Top of door need to be pulled into place. Top seem is joined with rivets that are slightly countersunk

Finished. Total weightsaving in metal alone on one door (including some drilling of the hinges) is 5 kg (11 lbs)

Some minor finishing to fit the car. Pretty happy with the result