Good Lord......that looks like one hell of a motor !!
quote:Originally posted by PanTTera:
Here Chuck (as Mike said "he is the mang") won't let Mike hit it with a hammer until tomorrow's battle of the pan/oil pump..........
You've been warned...don't let me catch you now young man or else!
Everyone has jackets on in there. Good Lord it must be down into the 50's? How can you stand it?
quote:Originally posted by PanTTera:
Out with the old, in (soon) with the new..........
would you say if one is doing a rebuild that a removable cross memeber is a MUST do?
(the other impression I am begining to devolp is maybe that Pantera ownership is something that is too late for me
)quote:Originally posted by JFB #05177:quote:Originally posted by PanTTera:
Out with the old, in (soon) with the new..........
would you say if one is doing a rebuild that a removable cross memeber is a MUST do?
(the other impression I am begining to devolp is maybe that Pantera ownership is something that is too late for me
It isn't a "required" modification, it is a convenience thing just for this kind of a situation. It makes dropping the pan much easier.
Too late? I already fixed the passenger seat so I can fit into it comfortably.
I just need to find someone to drive me around in it.
My sons are of no use for that UNLESS you like to be on an 8 or 9 hour ROLLER COASTER ride...all down hill!
Oh geese...there goes my stomach again...butterfly flashbacks!
Engine rebuild, or crossmember cutaway (as we are doing) isn't impossible.
It took an evening to chisel and sawzall and old crossmember out, still have grinding to do.
I'd say removing the engine/trans is similar to removing that of most cars (if that's the goal) maybe a little harder.
Chuck warned me Pantera ownership is a love/hate thing. I just hope I'm getting the "hate" part out of the way first, so there'll be lots of love after this!
It took an evening to chisel and sawzall and old crossmember out, still have grinding to do.
I'd say removing the engine/trans is similar to removing that of most cars (if that's the goal) maybe a little harder.
Chuck warned me Pantera ownership is a love/hate thing. I just hope I'm getting the "hate" part out of the way first, so there'll be lots of love after this!
quote:would you say if one is doing a rebuild that a removable cross memeber is a MUST do?
It's not necessarily a "must do," but it is a very good idea. Otherwise you can't remove the pan with the engine in the car. And, it's a LOT easier to remove the cross member when the engine is out of the car than doing it upside down from the ground underneath the car.
It also allows you to install the lower chassis stiffening kit which mounts in the same location.
My acr already has a large frame brace that removed in a minute.
Chuck and Roc came back this afternoon.
Chuck FINALLY got the oil pan and oil pump off.
I found a chunk of magnetic crap in the pump, causing the pump to freeze up.
There's two dents in each lobe of the pump rotor, but I suspect those may have gotten there when I cranked the engine over by hand.
It looks like a chunk of magnetic steel got stuck in the pump on startup after changing the oil.
I don't think the pump even made one revolution.
The oil pan has a lot of residueand leftover oil due the baffles. Tomorrow I'll pour that through screen and see if there's a bunch of chunks in the oil.
The jury is still out. I've found magnetic chunks in the oil pump that locked it up. Small enough to make it through the screen, but it takes the smallest piece of crap to stop that pump.
I'm too exhausted to do anything else tonight.
Ill spend tomorrow checking out the pump and the oil in the pan.
Chuck and Roc came back this afternoon.
Chuck FINALLY got the oil pan and oil pump off.
I found a chunk of magnetic crap in the pump, causing the pump to freeze up.
There's two dents in each lobe of the pump rotor, but I suspect those may have gotten there when I cranked the engine over by hand.
It looks like a chunk of magnetic steel got stuck in the pump on startup after changing the oil.
I don't think the pump even made one revolution.
The oil pan has a lot of residueand leftover oil due the baffles. Tomorrow I'll pour that through screen and see if there's a bunch of chunks in the oil.
The jury is still out. I've found magnetic chunks in the oil pump that locked it up. Small enough to make it through the screen, but it takes the smallest piece of crap to stop that pump.
I'm too exhausted to do anything else tonight.
Ill spend tomorrow checking out the pump and the oil in the pan.
That is bizarre.
When you say "magnetic" do you mean the particles themselves are magnetized ? not just attracted to a magnet like iron filings ?
I would find the oil bottle you filled the engine up with and cut it open , see if your new oil was contaminated in any way.
I cant imagine where "magnetic" particles could come from, there is nothing in the engine that is magnetic.
The only thing may be some thing like a magnetic sump plug if it had one, but the magnetism should hold that together.
Very strange.
.
When you say "magnetic" do you mean the particles themselves are magnetized ? not just attracted to a magnet like iron filings ?
I would find the oil bottle you filled the engine up with and cut it open , see if your new oil was contaminated in any way.
I cant imagine where "magnetic" particles could come from, there is nothing in the engine that is magnetic.
The only thing may be some thing like a magnetic sump plug if it had one, but the magnetism should hold that together.
Very strange.
.
Also maybe an optical illusion, but are you able to press that piece of metal through the screen? Doesn't look like it.
(I've never before seen the bracket that stabilizes the pick up, is that and the complexity/potential loose bolts really better than 3 spot welds?)
(I've never before seen the bracket that stabilizes the pick up, is that and the complexity/potential loose bolts really better than 3 spot welds?)
Hello Mikael; I was thinking the EXACT same thing in regards to the oil pick up stabilizer!quote:Originally posted by No Quarter:
Also maybe an optical illusion, but are you able to press that piece of metal through the screen? Doesn't look like it.
(I've never before seen the bracket that stabilizes the pick up, is that and the complexity/potential loose bolts really better than 3 spot welds?)
Also appears that the nuts are not nyloc.
I agree a "simple" tack weld would be a MUCH simpler solution & eliminating the potential for various components of the stabilizer to come loose...Mark
The support on the pick up is great just needs nyloc nut from the hardware store and safety wire on the 4 pump bolts. The tack weld is better than nothing. Pressed in pick ups can fall off at high RPM , you look threaded .
I am surprised that got through the pick up screen. Might want to look that over real well.
I would get a new heavy duty pump drive the old one has taken a few hits and it will be cheap compared to doing this again.
When you get past this Garth is right about the chassis brace kit. Best up grade I ever made, you can feel the added rigidity in the seat of your pants. Only question is , does the rear tub still fit? Mine was long gone when I got the car. All the vendors sell a version. Got mine from Precision , try to buy stuff from all the major shops.
If you need to arc weld on the car , please protect all the electronics!!!!
I am surprised that got through the pick up screen. Might want to look that over real well.
I would get a new heavy duty pump drive the old one has taken a few hits and it will be cheap compared to doing this again.
When you get past this Garth is right about the chassis brace kit. Best up grade I ever made, you can feel the added rigidity in the seat of your pants. Only question is , does the rear tub still fit? Mine was long gone when I got the car. All the vendors sell a version. Got mine from Precision , try to buy stuff from all the major shops.
If you need to arc weld on the car , please protect all the electronics!!!!
Having gone this far, I should think a thorough inspection of the engine's internals would be in order, to find the source of the metal bits. I'm thinking cam - dizzy gear set, or perhaps a shard from a broken dizzy drive pin. Good luck, and good to see you got the help you needed.