Camshaft Selection

Dave,
I guess it depends how BAD you want your car to be, eh? The only advice I would offer with your limited info on the rest of the engine specs is to go with a 1500-5500 rpm cam, especially if the engine is still pretty much stock.
That will allow you to pull that kitty outta the hole and yet have some nice smooth top end.
Let us know what you go with in the end.
Mike

Unless you intend to run in a specific competition, I suggest Ford/SVO's hydraulic cam for the 351-C, p/n M-6250-a-341. This is a 214/224 degree @0.050 lift, 0.510/0.536b lift w/107/117 degree lobe centers. I found it to be a good overall cam for street engines, and Larry Stock also runs it in his Silver State car. Given the rash of failures of distributor drive gears from badly-cut cam gears, I elected to stay with the factory cam, sort of...

Your right about needing more info.. Have been in the meantime contacting different mfg. and they all ask about the compression, carb, etc. I have the TRW forged 10:2 pistons running with a 600 double pumper. Outside of roller rockers I am running stock components with a Edlebrook preformer intake. I know I will never see any duty past 6 grand as most of my driving is around town and to events. I rebuilt this engine last year and have about 4,000 miles on it when I rounded out number 8 cylinder exhaust lobe. Everything checks so I must have gotten a defective camshaft. Fun fun but I will soon learn how difficult it will be to change a camshaft while the engine is still in the car.

Appreciate everyone's emails and more importantly the specs they are running and why. This last cam that went lame was a bit mild for my taste anyway with a "510 lift at .050 Right now I am trying to educate myself on everything about cams

Dave

I went with "Comp Cams" "292" Degrees duration (advertized)and(symetrical)with .560" lift (also symetrical. Means The Intakes and Exhausts are exactly the same) Many recommend duration and lift that faver the exhausts. I have not installed it yet. I am still building the "4 Bolt" Cleveland. Yes! I faver the "underdog". It will be running 62.3CC (before polishing), Closed Chamber Heads with flat top pistons and one large valve relief. It looks like 10.0:1 to 10.5:1 Compression ratio "on paper", But remember that is "Static". I plan to bring it back down just a little, to 9.6:1 to 9.9:1, using the cam duration, thick head gasket, and polishing open the combustion chambers, etc. This cam Should have a pretty nice lope at idel, without being "hard to live with". Regards, Marlin.

I inherited a Competition Cam hydraulic setup, don't know which particular cam was fitted. It's got a nice rumpity-rump idle, pulls hard throughout the rev range, and generally makes me happy.

The only problem is most Comp Cams for the 351C are single pattern and the 4V heads have a poor intake to exhaust flow ratio and need a dual pattern cam with more exhaust duration/lift for best power. So, when the time comes I'll be going with a custom cam from Cam Research.

Bob Eaton

just for info crane grinds most of fords cams.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by MARLIN JACK:
Hey Marlin,

Appreciate the insight.. Your probably the first to hit upon what I have been reading about with respect to "static" compression. Have you come across any good literature to help explain more regarding optimal opening and closing degrees, duration, ramp up rake, lift... ? I am hoping for something to help bring together based upon the basic flow of our heads what would be appropriate. Is there software to help diagnose this?

Dave

Desktop Dyno can be had for as little as $15 if you look... It'll allow you to plug in different cams and plot the result in terms of HP and torque. Likewise with other engine specs....

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Charlie McCall
1972 DeTomaso Pantera #3847 (for sale)
1985 DeTomaso Pantera GT5-S #9375
"Raising Pantera Awareness across Europe"
http://briefcase.yahoo.com/gt5s_1985

Dave, as well as having a desktop "Dyno" (I don't, Not yet). Here is a list of books You should look for and read before buying the pieces for your rebuild. Knowing what you have in your engine now; ('74 Pantera 351 Cleveland Cam: Dur. 280 to 290 Degrees. Lift .481" Int. and .490" Ex. (This can be found in your PANTERA Technical Manual)) Will help you decide how far you want to go, and in which direction, When you modify and Beef it up. These are the "Bibles". 1. How to rebuild Ford V-8 Engines. HP Books (Cleveland) 2. Muscle & Hi-Po Engines, FORD 351C & BOSS 351, Brooklands Books. (Cleveland) 3. The best of HOT ROD magazine, High Performance Small Block FORD Engines. (Cleveland and a lot on Windser) 4. FORD (parts counter cataloge) RACING performance parts 2001-2 5. ( The BIBLE By the Masters) Sunnens's Complete cylinder Head and Engine Rebuilding Handbook, by John G. Edwards. (professor of Engine Technology). If you can't find them at the bookstore, they can all be found on EBAY under 351C and 351 Cleveland. Good luck with it, and have fun building that personalized ENGINE all yourself. And always remember!! There are ELECTRIC "MOTORS" and then there are INTERNAL COMBUSTION "ENGINES"!! NO EXCEPTIONS! All the best, Marlin. P.S. With the exception of the #1 book, "How to rebuild FORD V-8 Engines", Most of the other books deal with FULL-ON, ALL OUT RACING ENGINES, that will NEVER see the street. Know the difference and build acordingly.

[This message has been edited by MARLIN JACK (edited 10-31-2002).]

One last thing, when you do this cam change in the car, now is a good time to have a new Water pump, roller timing set, Damper balancer, front timing cover seal (should come in the set of cover gaskets), cam thrust plate, all waiting and ready to go in at the same time! Regards, Marlin.