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118 replies

Clutch adjustment?

P peterfenlonMember
quote:
Originally posted by No Quarter:
Peter, are you near any of our Pantera friends in the UK?
Roger Brotton's shop can surely help you: I'm sure you'll get it right in the end, despite our help, but Roger has seen and done it all, and can maybe save you some time/iterations, either by advising you, or by having your car in his garage?



Better than getting depressed...


I would not want to send the car to Mr Brottons shop when I can do the same as he can.

Being able to pay for mechanical work is out of the question when it is a hydraulic problem,. and I wouldn't think I could afford to pay for such services.

Today I have put a pry bar on the clutch actuating arm and when giving it the old heave ho the clutch releases fine enough to get a ten though feeler between the flywheel and plate.

I have after all my other problems a bleed problem. and I will sort it especially with the help of more experienced owners, NEVER NEVER give up, one day our Billy!!!!!!
P peterfenlonMember
Good news at last.

after bleeding the system again then screwing the slave cyl rod to the rear of the slave cylinder.

I now get a 10 thou feeler in between the flywheel and clutch driven plate, with 13mm of slave cyl travel!!!

I can easily select gears again with ease.

I don't think I have any clearance between the TOB and the clutch arms, and have asked now for a longer throw slave from Roland Jaekel.

I hope this solves the problem.

The archangel Gabriel flew low over the house last night, when I get the new slave I hope she can land for a cup of tea.!!
P peterfenlonMember
Doug, your avatar reflects my feelings today.

JFB your right there isn't a recognised distance but there are so many anomalies with this awful system that it isn't surprising.

Mikael
I disconnected the ERKit, and in truth the measurements I am taking aren't exactly precise, but the slave travel appeared identical.

But your right I don't care I just want a working clutch.

All Posters, thank you for your assistance its what the club is all about, so a happy new year to you all.
P peterfenlonMember



Goodroc pics for you
the ERKit now dangling and disconnected and the ordinary rod fitted.
The slave cyl, after bleeding I (by hand) screwed the piston fully rearwards into the cylinder, but could still rotate the pin holding the slave rod to the actuating arm, so very little pressure would be on the release bearing.

When I get a new longer throw slave more room will be available for adjustment.
It Does seem that AIR was my problem or one of them, but I must say I like your motorcycle.
best wishes to all for the new year too regards Pete.
noquarternoquarterMember
Hi Peter

Sorry to go on, and I know you'll soon have a new slave, but two concerns based on your slave picture:
1. The stop bolt is not in use, it should be
2. The ring thingy is shown to be a little to the right versus the clevis pin, indicating the clevis pin is not big enough to fill the ring, creating a gap

Sorry to repeat myself, but please run through the 4 steps I posted early in this thread, it deals with both.
goodrocgoodrocMember
Peter you probably also need to rotate the slave about 90° in the bracket so that the bleeding point is the highest point!

Even if you feel that some of the things mentioned are not important, they are! It is precission engineering and the whole clutch is already marginal from the beginning with 100% original and correct parts. So NO shortcuts.....
P peterfenlonMember
quote:
Originally posted by goodroc:
Peter you probably also need to rotate the slave about 90° in the bracket so that the bleeding point is the highest point!

Even if you feel that some of the things mentioned are not important, they are! It is precission engineering and the whole clutch is already marginal from the beginning with 100% original and correct parts. So NO shortcuts.....


Goodroc I can assure you the bleed nipple IS at 12 o'clock the highest point available.
jfb05177jfb05177Member
quote:
Originally posted by Peter Fenlon:
your number 2 point I do not understand?


I summerized Mikeal's instructons
quote:

1. Master:
. a. (W/O ERK) pedal should be adjusted so at rest it’s between 0-½” closer to the driver than the brake pedal.
. b. with the pedal fully pressed down, there should be at least ½” gap to the firewall/carpet
2. Clutch axle arm:
. a. should be 90 degrees when the clutch pedal is half pressed down.
. b. check that there’s free movement, the arm or the bolt/nut doesnot rub on the ZF
. c. proper size clevis pin
3. Slave return bolt:
. a. Temporarily remove the spring.
. b. move the clutch axle arm rearwards, and feel for when it hits the resistance of the clutch.
. c. While holding the arm in that position, turn the screw so that it almost touches the bracket, leaving a 2mm gap.
. d. Reinstall the spring
4. Slave rod:
. a. take out the clevis pin and by hand press the slave rod all the way up in the slave.
. b. then release 1mm.
. c. adjust the length of the slave rod so the clevis can be put back in


his point #2 is about setting the arm 90 degress to the slave's bore

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noquarternoquarterMember
quote:
I summerized Mikeal's instructons
quote:

1. Master:
. a. (W/O ERK) pedal should be adjusted so at rest it’s between 0-½” closer to the driver than the brake pedal.
. b. with the pedal fully pressed down, there should be at least ½” gap to the firewall/carpet
2. Clutch axle arm:
. a. should be 90 degrees when the clutch pedal is half pressed down.
. b. check that there’s free movement, the arm or the bolt/nut doesnot rub on the ZF
. c. proper size clevis pin
3. Slave return bolt:
. a. Temporarily remove the spring.
. b. move the clutch axle arm rearwards, and feel for when it hits the resistance of the clutch.
. c. While holding the arm in that position, turn the screw so that it almost touches the bracket, leaving a 2mm gap.
. d. Reinstall the spring
4. Slave rod:
. a. take out the clevis pin and by hand press the slave rod all the way up in the slave.
. b. then release 1mm.
. c. adjust the length of the slave rod so the clevis can be put back in

Beautiful JFB! Guess being a writer I put too many words in between the important info...
joulesjoules"Racing is Life, anything before or after is just waiting" - Steve McQueen
Peter,

Do you have a stock master cylinder or aftermarket?

I believe that your clutch actuating arm may be one spline off, it looks as though it should be one more toward the rear. You have taken up all the slave rod adjustment to it's shortest, which should not be the case.

If you remove the helper return spring how much play do you have? If that is more than a couple mm then the first portion of your slave travel is purely taking up slack until the throw out engages on the clutch diaphragm. All you want is for it not to ride on the diaphragm, which is what the stop screw sets.

Happy New Year,
Julian
P peterfenlonMember
Hello Juliian,

the actuating arm is at the rearmost position.
there is no adjustment left on the rod to enable another spline to be reached,

I have standard master and slave from Roland in Germany. I have no free play if I remove the spring, but can rotate the pin holding the slave rod to the actuating arm, so not a lot of pressure is on the bearing.

I have now ordered a new longer throw slave which gives another 3mm of movement, this I feel will solve the problem allowing a smooth none graunching gear change and will allow space between the fingers and bearing too.
HNY to you too
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