It idles fine with AC on at any speed and RPM until it gets over 200 210 on the guage. What is the normal running temp for these cars?
Let’s assume you have six owners answer the question and you get six different numbers. How does that information assist in troubleshooting your problem ?
A number is just that, just a number.
as outlined above, there was a Ford TSB outlining the installation of a resistor to change the gauge reading. Does your car have the resistor? We don’t know. If you compare your numbers to someone else’s numbers, do they have a resistor in their wiring? We don’t know. And it really doesn’t matter.
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if you can park and walk away from a heat soaked engine without audible water boiling and overflowing from the expansion tank, it is very unlikely you have any cooling issues.
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you have asked this question at least once before and I still, please excuse me, don’t understand why it is a pertinent bit of information🙁🙁
Larry
Well true it may not be the direct cause but if a reaction happens everytime, there is some relationship. I am enquiring what that relationship might be.
I drive and when temp guages goes over 200-210 I experience stuttering and the car dies. Car will not restart until 1/2 to 1 hour later. I must assume there is heat involved because it would take that time to dissipate. I smell and see no radiator fluid escaping. It mainly happens at stop and go traffic. If ac is on it happens faster. Just like Dragnet, " Just the facts ma'am"
The temp may be a normal temp for this car. I don't know. I was just curious what that's suppose to be since they are suppose to have a 180 thermostat?
If it's normal temp, then the heat is causing some other problem i.e. coil, fuel heat issue ect. Even if it's high temp not sure how overheating would cause stuttering ect. But, that's why I have you. Or Y'all like we say to ask questions.
So here are my thought:
1) check coil for spark after it was up to 200-210. replace coil if none. Cheap. If it works, bingo
2) doesn't work insulate fuel lines more.
I thinks that's a place to start.
Your right on that. Part number even! Thanks!
Also check the routing of the fuel lines, maybe it has been modified and is going too close to hot elements such as the exhaust headers.
Do you have an original ignition with points or an electronic modified ignition? If electronic, where is the ECU which can also be heat sensitive?
Chris,
It seems to me, your problem is more likely due to driving time than temperature and my first guess is the ignition coil. It's pretty typical of a bad coil to work OK for a certain period of time, then crap out as it gets hot. Do you happen to have an MSD CD ignition box? If so, that could also be the culprit. Like I said in a previous posting, when the car won't start, pull a plug wire and see if you have ignition.
Let me add here, although it doesn't create overheating, there are only two temperture senders that are accurate. They are the Ford versions, stamped either Autolite or Motorcraft.
ALL OTHER AFTERMARKET senders are reading 20 degrees hotter then the actual temperature and if you have the 230 gauge, it can peg the dial inaccurately. It doesn't seem to matter who made them? It seems to be an engineering mistake of setting the sender with the wrong data.
All things considered with "cooling issues", this just complicates things and sets you off looking in the wrong places.
Thanks for the info! I'll check that too.
From Pantera Place: http://www.panteraplace.com/page205.htm
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Do you have an update on this issue for all of us that have tried to help you?
Larry
Hello everyone,
Thanks for your help. Here is the update. Carb and fan combo. They are original fans that had been rebuilt maybe 10 years ago. The left one was not running at all. The right was on its way out. So they have been replaced with Spal. The carb was in poor condition. Whoever had the car prior, had bent the lingages to do whatever they were trying to do. It was a Holley 1460. Changed it to the Edelbrock. I haven't driven it yet. Should get it back this week and I'll let you know. But yeah, probably a combination thing.
Hi Chris,
Hopefully the corrections/modifications you made will help, but I'm concerned your real problem is vapor lock. Get one of those Dust Off aerosol cans of "keyboard duster" (or whatever they call it) used to blow dust out of a computer keyboard.
If the car sputters and dies again and exhibits the same symptoms in which it won't start, shake up the can of keyboard duster, turn it upside down, and spray your fuel pump, fuel line, and carb bowls and base. This will instantly chill all those components and end a vapor lock. You should then be able to restart your car.
If that doesn't solve the problem, spray your coil to cool it down and see if it starts then.
Good luck, and keep us posted on what happens.
I do think your right. There probably is some vapor lock occuring as well. Looking into that. After running it and shutting it down, it takes about 20 min to restart easy unless you hold the peddle down for 20 sec. Has a new coil as well.
Update on cooling, cooling, cooling.
Turned out to be several things. Usually is. Tough to point the finger at exactly on thing. But, seems to have totally solved the problem.
Carburator: It was junk. Holly 1460. Someone had bent the linkages, used different bolts and nuts in the linkages, messed with the chokes and basically locked the secondary open all the time. Plus, it was old and needed a rebuild. I replaced it with a Edelbrock Performer. Also reworked the fuel line a little.
Radiator fans: One was not working and the others output was minimal. They were replaced with 2 Spal fans and I closed off the vents in the hood. All the sensors were checked and including the temp guage. 90 + day with the AC running it won't reach 200 in heavy traffic.
Coil: I replaced it without checking it cause it cost more in time ect that a new coil. Also found a wire that went to the coil that was broken in halfish. Coil was not getting enough power to the plugs. Replaced plugs also because the carb issue fouled them beyond use.
Car runs awesome! 43500 original miles. Thank you for everyones help.