As all know, there are numerous metal cooling pipes from the radiator on back to the engine. Were these painted, and if so, what color?
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Rust! 
Seriously, I don't know if they were painted from the factory. I cleaned mine up and painted them just to protect them.
Most folks replace them with stainless.
Seriously, I don't know if they were painted from the factory. I cleaned mine up and painted them just to protect them.
Most folks replace them with stainless.
I was considering that. Maybe I will REconsider that. It's the owner's money, not mine. I was told It is "difficult" to remove the under body tubes with engine in place and was not loving the idea of cutting the old and new pipes to accomplish the task, but "ya gotta do what ya gotta do" !!!
Coolant tube kits are available with either two long tubes, or with four shorter tubes (plus the other tubes).
John
John
I have the shorter tubes and don't remember this to be a problem installing with the engine in, which is when it was done.
It would be well advised to change to stainless now. You don't want rust flakes clogging up the radiator.
In reply to the other radiator thread, you need something to bleed the air out of the radiator at the highest point.
If your replacement doesn't have provision for this, Moroso has an inline aluminum splice in with a radiator cap on it.
You may be able to plumb that into the system, even if you need to tap in a bleeder valve into it. Others have gone this route. Not me though. Not yet anyway.
It would be well advised to change to stainless now. You don't want rust flakes clogging up the radiator.
In reply to the other radiator thread, you need something to bleed the air out of the radiator at the highest point.
If your replacement doesn't have provision for this, Moroso has an inline aluminum splice in with a radiator cap on it.
You may be able to plumb that into the system, even if you need to tap in a bleeder valve into it. Others have gone this route. Not me though. Not yet anyway.
@ jp1490 Yup. Seen that. Interesting range of pricing from the different vendors. Hmmmm.
@ Doug Understood. The interior of the two most forward pipes is absolutely clean. When I dumped the coolant, it was perfectly clean green liquid. Nothing foul came out of the old rad when I fully dumped it. It all looked like it was changed the day before. Amazing, actually. Obviously, I will have to cut the stock pipes under the body. As for the bleeder, I will have to find something that fits in the threaded bung in the top right of the new rad.
@ Doug Understood. The interior of the two most forward pipes is absolutely clean. When I dumped the coolant, it was perfectly clean green liquid. Nothing foul came out of the old rad when I fully dumped it. It all looked like it was changed the day before. Amazing, actually. Obviously, I will have to cut the stock pipes under the body. As for the bleeder, I will have to find something that fits in the threaded bung in the top right of the new rad.
quote:When I dumped the coolant, it was perfectly clean green liquid. Nothing foul came out of the old rad when I fully dumped it. It all looked like it was changed the day before. Amazing, actually.
Yup, same thing with mine after sitting for 25+ years.
John
The nature of these cars is to do work on them, then put them away and not look at them for a long time.
I would think that powder coating the originals inside and out would be fine but as for me, everything should be stainless 304 if possible.
As far as prices go, when you see Wilkinson with the fuel pickup assembly for 169, and Hall for 250, that tells you Hall is buying it from Wilkinson. The same prevails for every thing else as well.
Wilkinson is the source of most of the original replacement parts but Hall had a lot that he bought back in the day from US dealers.
Yes, you need to be an educated buyer.
I would think that powder coating the originals inside and out would be fine but as for me, everything should be stainless 304 if possible.
As far as prices go, when you see Wilkinson with the fuel pickup assembly for 169, and Hall for 250, that tells you Hall is buying it from Wilkinson. The same prevails for every thing else as well.
Wilkinson is the source of most of the original replacement parts but Hall had a lot that he bought back in the day from US dealers.
Yes, you need to be an educated buyer.
Getting educated quickly. In the case of this car, the owner will again drive it lightly, and at some point, the car will be put aside or sold as he won't be able to use it.
Going to replace the pipes. Hall and Wilkerson are at $475. PIM is showing $375, so waiting for confirmation on that.
Not going to attempt the rear ball joint boots so the arms will go out to Steve at "Ps by W".
Going to replace the pipes. Hall and Wilkerson are at $475. PIM is showing $375, so waiting for confirmation on that.
Not going to attempt the rear ball joint boots so the arms will go out to Steve at "Ps by W".
What is ironic about all of this is when these cars were new and under Ford waranty most of these parts were available next day from the Ford warehouse.
It isn't surprising to me though that Ford dropped the cars as fast as they could.
At that time I think they were not even required by the FED's to keep parts for 5 years.
It isn't surprising to me though that Ford dropped the cars as fast as they could.
At that time I think they were not even required by the FED's to keep parts for 5 years.
Ford has orphaned more than the Pantera. Example - Australian Capri.
I made my own aluminum cooling pipes, bought a mandrell bender just for this job.. 
Still have to make the pipes entering and leaving the cannister, cannot do this till the engine is back in place, will need the correct sizes.
Also took out the stock interior heating tubes and made aluminum pipes for this, it saves approx 40% weight
Cannot post 2 pic's in one posting, so i will do 2 postings.
Still have to make the pipes entering and leaving the cannister, cannot do this till the engine is back in place, will need the correct sizes.
Also took out the stock interior heating tubes and made aluminum pipes for this, it saves approx 40% weight
Cannot post 2 pic's in one posting, so i will do 2 postings.
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NICE job. Impressive.
Paulus; I plan to do my cooling tubes like you did. Can you say what alloy of aluminum you used, and if it was tempered or not? Rodney
Paulis,
Those look great. What brand and type of bender did you purchase?
Devin
Those look great. What brand and type of bender did you purchase?
Devin