cooling plumbing coating

My tanks and tubing are powder coated.
Not inside. Don't know if it's a dumb idea, but I wouldn't do it.

Doug M

Powder coating them is probably going to cost about $300. that seems to be the going rate for everything I send in to get done.
Personally I'd save the money and go with the stainless. Then you never have to worry about them again.

I agree with Doug, PI has stainless at a reasonable cost delivered to your home. I went with them. Powder coated the over flow bottles on the outside and all looks good. Go with stainless, my two cents.

I have had most of the engine bay plumbing coated with aluminized ceramic material that is used on headers. Both Panteras now have at least combined twenty years and roughly at least three engine out/in procedures. The aluminized ceramic seems to be impervious to rust and maintenance free. IIRC, it is supposed to be bound to the surface to the tune of 10000 psi. Just like headers they easily coat the inside and outside. Do it once and forget it. Probably your nearest Jet Hot could advise you on pricing. My numbers are 10-15 years ago.

Chuck Engles

I had my tanks jet hot coated, bad idea. The process was hot enough that it caused the neck to become "de-soldered" off the tank. In order to re-solder it I would have to use heat which would have discolored the tank. Replaced it with a stainless tank. The other tank worked okay until it rusted from the inside out, replaced it with a stainless. No more worries.
Powder coat is not as hot as jet hot process, but it has to be sprayed, then baked. Don't think you could spray the inside top. You would need to do inside and out at the same time I believe. Go stainless, be done.

I sent my tanks out and had them chromed. That was 28 years ago. So far so good. Eventually the original steel tanks will rot through. I'll let you know how they work out for me?

In order to "high temp" ceramic coat, like on headers, the item needs to be able to stand 700 F degrees.

That's around the temperature +/-, that 50/50 lead solder will melt.

The stainless tanks which are 304, will virtually last forever.

Gentlemen,


I am referring to the pipes and not the tanks where the aluminum ceramic treatment would definitely cause problems. FWIW.


Chuck Engles

quote:

I am referring to the pipes and not the tanks where the aluminum ceramic treatment would definitely cause problems. FWIW.

If your pipes are in sound condition with no corrosion, you could powder coat the exterior to make them pretty. But I don't believe you can properly powder coat the inside of the tubes due to the Faraday Cage effect. And if you spray the powder through the tube without a static charge, you have no way of ensuring a consistent even coat on the entire interior surface.

Jet Hot type header coatings may work well, but for the cost of employing one of these processes I think you can buy stainless pipes which will last far longer.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I sent my tanks out and had them chromed. That was 28 years ago. So far so good. Eventually the original steel tanks will rot through. I'll let you know how they work out for me?

In order to "high temp" ceramic coat, like on headers, the item needs to be able to stand 700 F degrees.

That's around the temperature +/-, that 50/50 lead solder will melt.

The stainless tanks which are 304, will virtually last forever.

The temperature is actually much lower. not looking to nit/pic, just clarifying ...Mark

Solder is a metal or metallic alloy used, when melted, to join
metallic surfaces together. The most common alloy is some
combination of tin and lead. Certain tin-lead alloys have a lower
melting point than the parent metals by themselves. The most
common alloys used for electronics work are 60/40 and 63/37.
The chart below shows the differences in melting points of some
common solder alloys.
Tin/Lead Melting Point
40/60 460ºF (230ºC)
50/50 418ºF (214ºC)
60/40 374ºF (190ºC)
63/37 364ºF (183ºC)
95/5 434ºF (224ºC)

I'm looking for aluminum tubing with fins, that would dissipate the coolant temperature FASTER than any other piping!.

This looks rather promising!!!...Mark

https://www.google.com/search?...53D43468%3B500%3B400

quote:

Originally posted by 1Rocketship:

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I sent my tanks out and had them chromed. That was 28 years ago. So far so good. Eventually the original steel tanks will rot through. I'll let you know how they work out for me?

In order to "high temp" ceramic coat, like on headers, the item needs to be able to stand 700 F degrees.

That's around the temperature +/-, that 50/50 lead solder will melt.

The stainless tanks which are 304, will virtually last forever.

The temperature is actually much lower. not looking to nit/pic, just clarifying ...Mark

Solder is a metal or metallic alloy used, when melted, to join
metallic surfaces together. The most common alloy is some
combination of tin and lead. Certain tin-lead alloys have a lower
melting point than the parent metals by themselves. The most
common alloys used for electronics work are 60/40 and 63/37.
The chart below shows the differences in melting points of some
common solder alloys.
Tin/Lead Melting Point
40/60 460ºF (230ºC)
50/50 418ºF (214ºC)
60/40 374ºF (190ºC)
63/37 364ºF (183ºC)
95/5 434ºF (224ºC)

I'm impressed. Someone actually reads my posts?

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:

quote:

Originally posted by 1Rocketship:

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraDoug:
I sent my tanks out and had them chromed. That was 28 years ago. So far so good. Eventually the original steel tanks will rot through. I'll let you know how they work out for me?

In order to "high temp" ceramic coat, like on headers, the item needs to be able to stand 700 F degrees.

That's around the temperature +/-, that 50/50 lead solder will melt.

The stainless tanks which are 304, will virtually last forever.

The temperature is actually much lower. not looking to nit/pic, just clarifying ...Mark

Solder is a metal or metallic alloy used, when melted, to join
metallic surfaces together. The most common alloy is some
combination of tin and lead. Certain tin-lead alloys have a lower
melting point than the parent metals by themselves. The most
common alloys used for electronics work are 60/40 and 63/37.
The chart below shows the differences in melting points of some
common solder alloys.
Tin/Lead Melting Point
40/60 460ºF (230ºC)
50/50 418ºF (214ºC)
60/40 374ºF (190ºC)
63/37 364ºF (183ºC)
95/5 434ºF (224ºC)

I'm impressed. Someone actually reads my posts?

Ohhhhhh, I must be the "1"...Mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akLB6x1SGxQ

another cooling question. the parts book show a top radiator vent going under car back to swirl tank for ('74 >5899). Mine had a short vent hose going to the main return 1 1/4" tube.

what is the diamater of that steel pipe and is the fitting diameter at the tank restricted?

I would like to also ask this question to anyone that has added the top of radiator vent back to a surge tank what size was used.

as for coating the tubes and tanks, a local radiator shop wants to look at mine and he said he might be able to clean them up and apply inteneral protectant.

I just want to have my plans for fixing the swirl to vent to a surge and have the expansion tank converted to accept vents and drain to pump suction as a surge. I was wondering if 5/8" for the top radiator vent was approaiate to stay with similair hose as heater

[/QUOTE]

I'm impressed. Someone actually reads my posts? [/QUOTE] Ohhhhhh, I must be the "1"...Mark

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=akLB6x1SGxQ[/QUOTE]

Oh, it's you?

quote:

plans for fixing the swirl to vent to a surge and have the expansion tank converted to accept vents and drain to pump suction as a surge. I was wondering if 5/8" for the top radiator vent was appropriate to stay with similar hose as heater

On mine I (MarkIV/4280) used standard barb fittings and 5/8" radiator hose for the bleed from the swirl tank to the expansion tank. The fittings welded into in the tanks were whatever was convenient (5/8" Pipe?) to provide that nipple.

The hardline from the radiator was smaller, maybe 3/8", that was because of the bends, and having to run and restrain it. It has to run all the way under the car, up the back bulkhead, and around behind the passenger-side frame sill to get to the Overflow tank.

As you are just bleeding air, what you need is a constant flow, not massive volume.

In my opinion, 1/4" line would work, but 3/8" was the better choice.

Rocky

Rocketman, replacing the big steel water pipes with aluminum is another of those "upgrades that really aren't". A few people in the past used 1-1/2" copper tubing for your same reason, and found that so much heat came off the pipes, the gearshift and console actually burned them. On the prototype Pantera, the water pipes ran inside the console above the floor, and it was quickly found the car could not be driven for very long due to heat buildup in the cabin. The pipes were lowered some 6" and insulation added to the inside of the console but even then, if the shift boot fails, the heat from a stock setup will drive you out of the car in Summer!

Stainless steel pipes actually transfer heat worse than mild steel and corrode not at all, so besides ducking maintenence issues by using stainless, the car stays cooler inside.

quote:

Originally posted by Bosswrench:...heat came off the pipes,...heat buildup in the cabin...

At one time I was thinking about using this stuff, maybe I should
http://www.grainger.com/produc...nctionCode=P2IDP2PCP

I've even run hot water heater hose insulation like that on the section under the car to lower cabin temps.