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The engine is pulling a steady vacuum reading.  There is very little fluctuation.

I replaced the blue plastic plug in the manifold with a brass plug.  The blue plug was not tight.  I also replaced the thick carb gasket with a normal gasket.  The dieseling did not change.  Normal advance on this engine 16 degrees.  I tried decreasing that to 10 degrees and no help.

The best way I have to stop the engine at this time is to turn down the idle screw until it stops running.

After putting in the normal carb gasket the throttle cable and linkage are dragging on the manifold.  Hence the reason for the thick gasket.  It looks like I will go back to it or use a spacer and two gaskets.

Finally some improvement. I set the idle timing much higher (simulating vacuum advance) and adjusted idle mixture screws to maximize vacuum. The dieseling is almost gone. Here are the settings for the Progression Ignitions distributor:

Thus at idle there is a lot of advance and as soon the throttle is blipped the advance drops to around 16 degrees and gradually increases with RPMs.

Attachments

Images (2)
  • mceclip0
  • mceclip1

The Y axis KPa.  I think it is vacuum in reverse sequence (or something like that).  101 is butterflies closed and 20 is WOT (wide open throttle).  At startup timing is reduced to 10 degrees making for easy starts.  This distributor is somewhat like having 1/2 of EFI.  It has a MAP sensor.  It is now my default distributor and I really like it.

I was baffled by the dieseling and have not seen anything like it before.  My hunch is cam profile is involved.  I increased the advance for low RPMs from 23 to 25 (and adjusted idle mixture on the lean side) and the dieseling stopped entirely.  Next week I will get Tommy Hodges and Wilkinson involved and maybe get some insight.  This is Wilkinson's car.

I am even more impressed as the distributor uses vacuum as a timing input.

Seems to me as if it gives you a very flexible, and predictable programming ability, for something that once only had a few variables (and they were dependent variables, like the timing curve) that you could control!

Interesting stuff!  Thanks for posting that screen capture!



Chuck

It is important to note on this posting that all Panteras came with vacuum advance and that ignition timing is set with the vacuum canister disabled. As John Taphorn mentioned, timing advance is normally set at 16 degrees. If you check the timing again after reconnecting the vacuum canister you will see that advance is much higher, probably in the low to mid twenties at idle. I spoke with Progression Ignition about this a while back and they said their software does not automatically emulate this characteristic. They said if you want such just go back and add eight degrees to the first two columns in the table except for the ones that support startup (those remain at 10). It was not until yesterday afternoon that I made this adjustment and the dieseling stopped. This particular engine requires the extra the advance normally supplied by a stock distributor to avoid dieseling. I have worked on other engines that did not diesel with the default table. It is now apparent to me that eight degrees should be added to the default table idle columns when using this distributor. I think Progression Ignition software should have a check box labeled “Include vacuum advance in idle columns” and it should default to yes.

my 2 cents if you have not done it already is to check timing. Find out if you did not assemble the engine, if the cam was degreed. If it was then your pointer should be correct if not you could be off and making a pointer is easy so you are not chasing your tail in the middle of a forest which sound like you are or were there. Start at the basics.

In my experience, Cleveland head engines like a lot of initial advance. Boss 302's use 16°. If you are running iron heads you just want to limit the total to less then 36°.

Aluminum heads only need about 32°total but will tolerate 36°.

Most aftermarket cams I've used will only give you around 14 inches of vacuum at idle. Having only 14 is not an indication that something is wrong.

"my 2 cents if you have not done it already is to check timing."

Using the timing light on the balancer, the readings from the timing tape match the electronic distributor display.  I think the timing (rotation of the distributor) is correct.  Next week I will check with Tommy Hodges about the cam degree.  He assembled the motor.   Perhaps that is a factor in this engine needing a lot of vacuum advance at idle.  

The engine is running well and the dieseling is gone.  I am happy with it at this point.

Last edited by stevebuchanan

The dieseling problem is completely fixed and the engine runs well.  The fix was to increase timing below 950 RPM's.  It is easy to do with this electronic distributor by making table changes (I wish I knew that earlier).  Once idle timing is increased then the butterfly openings can be reduced and idle air mixture can be leaned.  These changes were enough to stop the dieseling.

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