It is very easy to determine if a regulator is working. With engine running the voltage measured on the battery must be 13.5-13.8 volts (or close to that) if it is more than 14volts or less than 13volts your regulator has failed. The regulator is not your problem from what I gather. I would take that previously overheating amp gauge and throw it as far as I could, it is a ticking time bomb (besides it provides absolutely useless and unreliable information even when it was new) Install a volt gauge in its place. Tie the 2 fat wires on the amp gauge together and use them as the + to feed the volt gauge and make sure they have a really good connection. A volt gauge will provide you with all the information you need to know about your electrical system (in respect of the charging status)
quote:Maybe voltage regulator overamping?
There is no such thing as "overamping", unless you have a short.
The Alternator can generate a higher VOLTAGE, but to burn stuff up, the circuit has to have a low-resistance path to ground.
As Joe stated, an increase in voltage might boost your current by 10-15%.
But this (relatively) small increase in current caused by the higher voltage will not be the difference between a fuse that doesn't blow, and one that blows in 5 seconds.
Electicity is like plumbing, were voltage is PRESSURE, and current is FLOW. Electricity always goes from the high pressure (voltage) side, down to ground (at least for the purposes of this discussion).
You need you get your multimeter out, and figure out how that FLOW on circuit XX (??) is getting to the drain (ground), by finding the wire or connection that has a very low, or no, resistance.
You have to figure it out by "boots on the ground", since there are a lot of wires, it is hard to help over the internet. Understanding how the electrical system really works will help you in your quest.
Good Luck - Seriously.
Rocky
Just looking at the schematics, I was a little concern that the fuel sender went to 0 ohms at "full". ie 0 ohms being a short circuit and thus a LOT of current. SO I went and checked my gauges and determined they appear to have internal current limiting resistance. the fuel and water gauges were 130 ohms and the oil gauge 82 ohms.
assuming the worst case of all three gauge senders were 0 ohms (grounded) the effective resistance of the three gauges would be 37 ohms; thus only about 2 1/2 amps
the original wiring for fuse 12 should have the brake lamps, backup lamps and a radiator fan motor besides the gauges. if these devices are OFF, then the fuse resistance should be greater than 37 ohms (working senders will increase resistance. light bulb's resistance are very low when not hot
assuming the worst case of all three gauge senders were 0 ohms (grounded) the effective resistance of the three gauges would be 37 ohms; thus only about 2 1/2 amps
the original wiring for fuse 12 should have the brake lamps, backup lamps and a radiator fan motor besides the gauges. if these devices are OFF, then the fuse resistance should be greater than 37 ohms (working senders will increase resistance. light bulb's resistance are very low when not hot
Finally found the issue!
I had recently cleaned the taillight lenses, and popped the bulbs out to check for corrosion.
The rubber/plastic shielding on the wire going to the brake light had moved over enough to short against the bulb housing, causing a dead short.
After messing and checking the right taillight and wiring, I went to the left one and found the culprit. Shrunk wire shielding.
I used that liquid black tape stuff, and also put a piece of silicon model airplane fuel line around the bad area, so it's impossible for this to happen again,,,,at THIS spot.
The wiring on the car is ancient. As the car is not restored, I'm going to just run end enjoy, and fix as necessary, any more wiring issues (knocking on wood).
I had recently cleaned the taillight lenses, and popped the bulbs out to check for corrosion.
The rubber/plastic shielding on the wire going to the brake light had moved over enough to short against the bulb housing, causing a dead short.
After messing and checking the right taillight and wiring, I went to the left one and found the culprit. Shrunk wire shielding.
I used that liquid black tape stuff, and also put a piece of silicon model airplane fuel line around the bad area, so it's impossible for this to happen again,,,,at THIS spot.
The wiring on the car is ancient. As the car is not restored, I'm going to just run end enjoy, and fix as necessary, any more wiring issues (knocking on wood).
glad you located the problem
so it wasn't "running", but foot on the brake was blowing the fuse
so it wasn't "running", but foot on the brake was blowing the fuse
Apparently, yes. The two do go hand in hand with me while driving.
I'd caused the short by messing (cleaning) the lenses and reflectors) but didn't notice the fuse pop til I hit the brakes. Also, it took a few seconds for the fuse to blow, momentary brake taps didn't pop it.
Also, it seems some fuse locations were switched around by the previous owner, which made things extra difficult, had me looking in the wrong places.
I'd caused the short by messing (cleaning) the lenses and reflectors) but didn't notice the fuse pop til I hit the brakes. Also, it took a few seconds for the fuse to blow, momentary brake taps didn't pop it.
Also, it seems some fuse locations were switched around by the previous owner, which made things extra difficult, had me looking in the wrong places.
Thought I had the issues licked, but with the headlights on, when I hit the brakes my right brakelight and taillight go dead.
Otherwise, all works OK, although the right side brake light glows dimmer than the drivers side.
Now the throttle is sticking, I think the pedal/cable is hanging up on the console side cover (which I had off while troubleshooting the electrical issues.
Now, a throttle blip lasts a full second, and is scary. Normal easy driving all works OK, but the throttle should be issue-free IMO, so now there's one more thing to deal with.
This car is getting the best of me.
I'm tempted to throw a cover over it and forget I bought it for 6 months, come back at it with a better attitude.
Presently, it's one thing after another, and I'm having trouble keeping up.
Otherwise, all works OK, although the right side brake light glows dimmer than the drivers side.
Now the throttle is sticking, I think the pedal/cable is hanging up on the console side cover (which I had off while troubleshooting the electrical issues.
Now, a throttle blip lasts a full second, and is scary. Normal easy driving all works OK, but the throttle should be issue-free IMO, so now there's one more thing to deal with.
This car is getting the best of me.
I'm tempted to throw a cover over it and forget I bought it for 6 months, come back at it with a better attitude.
Presently, it's one thing after another, and I'm having trouble keeping up.