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I have changed the fuel pump twice this year. I can do it no problem now. Anyway I even added a pressure gauge before the carb the last time. So it sat for over a month again, I try to start it and again no gas to carb. There must be something else going on with this thing. I will do the regular check of fuel lines, and blow down the line to the tank to listen for bubbles and possible crud. I sprayed some carb cleaner in the carb to fire it up (no problem) and to see if it owuld suck some gas in the line. Nope.....Am I overlooking something simple?
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Do you have the kind of pickup from the tank that is through a banjo fitting on the top of the tank, or a pipe that comes out of the plate that contains the wires for the sender?

If the former, then disconnect the banjo fitting and make sure there are no goobers blocking the small orifices in that connection. They can trap sealant or rust particles very easily.

The other possibility is that if this car sat for a long period of time with a low fuel level, then the pickup tube may have developed a pinhole due to corrosion. Frowner
Its a mech pump. Has the plate with wires on top of the tank. I had it working fine 2 months ago, or so I thought. Filter is after the pump. I will check for blockage in the fittings. If the pickup has a pinhole leak, that would require to remove the tank? That would suck but thats life. I will post what I find out this weekend.
The early cars had a pickup tube that extended into the tank with a banjo fitting on the top. The fuel sender was just that. On the later cars the pickup tube is part of the fuel sender unit. The pickup tube on the early cars develop pin holes as they corrode which causes the fuel pump to draw in air and fuel which will starve the pump. There is also a filter sock on the end which can be removed by "mechanical means" without removing the tank. The simple fix is to replace youe fuel sender with a later model (available from vendors, although other cars use a very similar design). You can leave the old pickup tube installed. Makes for a good return if you use fuel injection.
Attached a line to the top of the tank and blew through it no problem. Attached the fuel line again and made sure everything was tight. Cranked over the engine 3 different times. Looked at the fuel pressure gauge I put inline a while back and it reads about 7pds. So that looks like its working to me. Next I checked the carb, Dry inside. Pumped the carb a few times and no gas. The 2 squirtersarenot squirting. Taking it off to clean it in an hour or so.
Cleaned the carb of all the green. That was the problem again. Yeah must be from water or moisture. Tried to take out as much of the old gas as possible. I siphoned it out best I could. Added some Heet in case there was some still in the tank. Started up no problem. Now if I could just make sure all that crap is gone. Best way is to drive it some but really cant drive it all that much right now. Thanks for the help. Least I know what the problem is for next time.
The green stuff is undoubtably copper salt- a reaction compound between copper/brass and water or acids. The fuel tank drain plug is likely age-welded in place and may need drilling out. The vendors usually have replacement plugs; an air-impact gun set on 'medium impact' and patience as it chatters away on its socket for a few minutes, sometimes will loosen tight plugs without damage to either plug or tank.
Given your problems so far, I'd completely empty the tank however you can, run a shop-vac hose in thru the filler or sender hole for a few hours to dry it out, flush it with alcohol to remove the last traces of water in tank seams, then proceed as if you were restoring an old car's tank. Expect perforations in the welded fuel-out line if its a pre-'73 tank. This will eventually cause you to run out of gas when the level gets to the lowest corrosion hole in the line. Changing to a late fuel sender with integral fuel-out spigot cheaply cures an inaccessible perforated line. It is a true bolt-in mod; one of a very few.
Well I let it sit again for 2 months and no gas. I really think theres a problem with the fuel pickup tube/sender. So Im going to start on replacing it. Was reading about the war about the side window. Guess I will try to do it without removing it first. I think the rubber around the window might be old as dirt and could be a problem. I will take pictures since I never found and on here yet. Almost positive theres a hole in the pickup tube Pump is good, theres just not as much gas in the tank and I know if I add enough above the hole it will pump some gas. My gas gauge has been stuck on empty too so its an all around fix I hope.
You have the early gas tank (like me) and the pickup was replaced or updated at some point with the newer type.

The tubes are steel and they will rust through with a pin hole size so small it's tough to find.

The original pickup hole needs to be plugged. It is allowing moisture into the tank every time you wash the car.

Most likely the newer pickup has holed through also.

If you are going to let the car just lay there for long periods of time, best to do it with a FULL tank of gas.

Those rust holes tend to appear at the level the gas was at for extended periods.

Wilkinson has new pick ups/senders for $169.95. He is the sole importer of that part and if you want to pay more to another vendor like Hall who sells it for $230, and gets it from Wilkinson, it's your choice.

I JUST went through this with my car. It is the pick-up TUBE IN THE TANK. Wink

http://www.panterapartsusa.com...l.cgi?prod_id=09003A

Incidentally with these corrosion issues apparent in your tank, you should slosh it, then tefflon coat the inside of the tank.

The tanks rust out too. A new steel one is $995 and a stainless one is $1100, but you need to pull the engine out to change it.

I sloshed and tefloned mine in 1986. I was just in there with the procotology scope I borrowed from the OR and the teflon is still in place with no sign of rust anywhere. No polups either!

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