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Can anyone confirm?

#2 leads to the reservoir

#1 I believe heads to the clutch actuator which is located next to the clutch.

There doesn't appear to be an existing line, just a lonely banjo left abandoned on the solenoid. I suppose the next step is to have the proper line made by the hose shop.

Would it make sense to rebuild the solenoid since it's all apart? I'd hate to find out a rebuild is needed AFTER it's all put together.  Perhaps there is a way to test it on the bench?

I hope to share some more progress in the near future. This thing has been sitting in the garage for way too long.


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  • girling
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You are correct, the inlet is the far end https://www.pegasusautoracing....ion.asp?Product=3502 . The fitting for the banjo goes to the hard line to the slave, you could use another banjo with a very small barb for the inlet (since the reservoir hoses are very small diameter). 

If in doubt, good news is that the Master cylinder is easy to find.  My car came with a 0.625" (Girling 625), replacements on Ebay are dirt cheap (as little as $18 for Chinese copies) and match the 0.75" that you have, or 0.625 or 0.70"...Lee  


Last edited by leea


These are easy enough to take apart and check least clean out any crunge in it from old DOT3 fluid (likely....).  This is a Girling .750" (CV center valve?) piece and seal kits are still around. Same kit was used up thru the mid 80's on Jeep trucks. You can also order entire units from Euro parts dealer back in OH.  He previously had them available on eBay for very reasonable money.

If you have the ability, I'd reline the original with brass/bronze....and then rekit. I did this with my original aluminum cylinder, but I believe the replacements are cast iron so perhaps not such a big deal....  Can't tell which you have.......

...and be sure to use DOT4 Castrol (Girling compatible) brake fluid when refilling!



Last edited by mangusta


I believe that your drawing is correct now that I look at it and a couple others....   Not having car to stick my head in and look is the pits!    

I always thought that the pressure port was at the end.....not the middle!  Like  brake M/C.   But I guess if that end port is blocked off during the piston stroke, you won't have fluid going up into the reservoir!   Seems backwards....... but I found other drawings showing similar with reservoirs at end port!


I owe scifi a correction!   He was originally asking about a slave cylinder and somehow this got off track to the master?   The use of the term solenoid is a bit offputting, but perhaps correct in other areas of the planet?

Slave cylinders are a Maserati, Fiat Multipla  Girling piece, (.750" bore).   The Fiat X1/9 uses a mirror image casting that if installed on the GOose, needs spacers to keep from compressing the bore!     I bought them new, to use the innards for rebuilding mine!   There are at least three different rebuild kits, each with unique pistons and seals......but should be fine in our cars.

The master cylinder is also a Girling (.750" bore) that is still sold for short track racing cars!  Roundy round dirt cars.....    Gentleman in OH still sells them on eBay as such.  No need for Chinese junk when you have good quality Girling bits new!!!    Hopefully Girling did not go to the dark side for their manufacturing......!!!!          Kits for these cylinders were found under a mid 80's Jeep truck listing.   I still have 3-4 of these kits available......  They do not work in a Pantera......

Hope this clears the muddied water a bit!

These clutch pieces should be simple to find with very little digging! THANKFULLY!!!    Although the availability of the rebuild kits is drying up quickly!


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