Got all the reservoirs/hoses, clutch, and brake master/booster removed. No fluid coming from booster so master brake did not leak into it. Will probably go with rebuilding brake master (found a kit), new clutch master (since I don't know what was installed), and new clutch slave. Whatever was used as the clutch master required different spacing on holes in dash. Hard lines look ok...a little blue corrosion to clean off clutch line.
WOW! That's one mess and a half for a clutch master!
See if you can dig up Jim at Orphan Auto (OH?) for a new assy. He sells these to roundy rounders as clutch and brake cylinders!
EDIT:
HERE IS INFO FOR ORPHAN AUTO- JIM 1-937- 554 - 6 000
This cylinder is described as: " 3/4" Bore, Center Valve, Remote Reservoir"
You will likely need to reuse your original pushrod. Aprox $75-85 Feb/24
Advise if you need a pic' of what the original should be.......or search the forum.
Original markings on #878 Clutch master: EHEB-7707 and #310680 CC3
Rebuild Kits: Raybestos CMK1936 (1983-88 Jeep Eagle, 84-86 Jeep Truck & Wagon applications) Girling SP1995/2 MANY Triumph TR2 TR3 TR4.
Specific Seal# 64673407 First replacement part I ever found for my Goose! Popped out of the 3rd box of seals I was looking thru in the auto parts store! BINGO!!! I'll take it! 1996 or 1997!
JUST IN!!! While looking for the above seal, which is usually all that needs replacing I found this exact seal in a LUCAS SP1967 kit on eBay for about $15!!! It has extra parts, like reservoir cap and washer, but barring the ability to get the SP1995/2 kit, this would do the trick for you and it's cheaper and new!
Gotta run!
Steve
PS: I wouldn't mess with the booster, unless your car has over 100k miles on it! 
It is a Bendix copy and IIRC it is a bugger job to do for that style. The "other" Ford style "banded" version is easier to rebuild....but not used in our cars! 
...you know, its just great to be halfway there (!) And also good news that the old holes are hard to fill in , replacing with an original clutch master will be easy enough... Good luck on the booster rebuild, the one in 1076 was new, decades ago at least (!) On my Ferrari 400i, I used some guy in Oregon who was pretty affordable...Lee
Here's what I am looking at for clutch master on ebay:
DeTomaso Mangusta 3/4" Bore Center Valve Girling Style Clutch Master Cylinder
That's the one!!! Good chance it is from Jim.
SEE NOTE A COUPLE OF POSTS UP FOR MORE INFO!!!
"Giring style" means made in China, which all in all are probably a better bet than rebuilding a 50 year old one..! https://www.ebay.com/itm/28560...p;LH_ItemCondition=3
or even $14, free shipping...geez..!
Got new clutch master coming and slave soon thereafter.
Have Bonaldi Brake Master (#1405996 in casting, and #140595 23mm on large end nut) detached from booster. No fluid in booster so apparently seal was good to master.
Got circlip off end with piston, however, piston didn't want to come out pulling with hand. Does it make sense to put cloth on piston and pull on barrel with pliers to get it out (one plier blade in piston barrel and one outside)? I did have lock bolt in rear input loosened.
Large nut on opposite end from piston wouldn't budge.
Anyway to do it with the air pressure??!!
Will give it a shot.
@muttsjet posted:Will give it a shot.
Literally…💥
Hmmmm! Now I don't remember!!! I am thinking that this all comes out the end with the nut!!!!!
Give me some time to dig up old pictures........
DON'T PULL ON ANYTHING YET!
Look for pic's of blown out Pantera cylinder for clues. Same or darn similar!!!! 23mm also!
Edit:
OK after thinking about this some more, and unable to locate my old M/C hard copy prints on the computer....ugh.... I believe that the snap ring on the plunger end comes out, and then the large washer which simply exposes the end of the piston. Normally there was a large black rubber seal over the plunger shaft and fit into the recess also, covering the snap ring and big washer....but not retained by anything....but friction. I don't believe that these seals are available anywhere....
The large nut will be an issue. You may need to walk it into a machine shop where they can clamp the M/C securely in a proper precision vice, then using a 6 point socket of the proper size and a breaker bar to try and pop it loose. I don't think there is a rubber o-ring on it....but rather a brass-ish washer......to seal it up.
Heat may be required to heat up the casting to cause it to expand a tad. You might try that. A ship may use an inductive heater to warm up only the area you need warmed...... anti-sieze on threads upon assembly!
If your outside temp is in the single digits, you may want to bring the master cylinder indoors and set it next to the fire.......! Work on it on a warmer day?!
Steve
Well, nut on end would not budge even in vice with breaker bar, so, banged on washer on piston end and it finally broke loose. This brake master is a Bonaldi Benditalia 1405996 (found on casting)/140595 23mm (found on end nut). It was apparently used on 208’s and some 308’s. You can see from the pic it consists of 3-23mm and 1-29mm seals. Found these seals as well as the seal plugs for reservoir lines at Dino Parts in GE.
I guess you could call it a good bang...up job!!!! Glad you got it apart!!! Sorry for the bad recall.......!
Cheers!
Steve
Interesting, I had not seen the screw used to limit the rear circuit piston--had only seen this pin before via the rear banjo screw itself.
Switched to suspension/brakes/steering after pulling brake and clutch masters from interior.
Any suggestions for sequence for removing entire front drivers suspension?
Attached pic is of drivers front brake caliper. Has #1266 embossed on it and it consists of 2 large 60+mm/2 3/8" pistons...CR type. At least one of the two pistons appears to be rusted in place (soaking in Kroll oil now). May be able to blow the other out with compressed air.
pic of caliper
Once you get the shock/spring out, it doesn't make much difference how you do it.....no tension. Pop the ball joints loose from the spindle and remove it first, then the a-arms are easy peasy. Unless of course something is rusted in place.......!
Easy does it!!!
Lower nylon-ish bushings will likely have some play in them. Even in new ones.......grease with some sort of synthetic grease...
Upper bushings are Heim joints....and should be tight...... Grease them with a tapered needle bit on your grease gun, and install new dust booties....
Ball joints should be replaced with more modern cast pieces vs multi-layer steel pieces which were designed to fail.....!
Gettin' there!!!!
Steve
...all the suspension, is, well, pretty much how it looks. I was able to get replacement Nylon bushings for the front from Hall Pantera, the poly bushings in the rear are probably something you will have to make or have made. The heims and their boots are easier than they first look, the instruction to start by threading the Heim via the small hole seems counter-intuitive (but it works! Stick the threads thru the small hole, screw into the insert, and like childbirth somehow the bootie magically stretches as you pull the heim joint into place).
Getting the right ball joints is a long battle, M!ke is the last guy who found a solution...
(btw, fascinating to see the text on the inside of the caliper?!)
I went with the Delphi TC76 ball joints. It required sanding the casting bumps smooth and putting in the freezer overnight, then heating and greasing the mounting cup... It's a tight fit, but it works and the parts seem well made and quite solid
MH
That is WAY more work than I remember doing on the similar looking BJ!
There is an upper and a lower for the Fiat 124...... I don't know which one.... but I bought mine from the factory a million years ago and there was no fussing.....
Others have been thru this same search....
We need the ability to "flag" or group/save posts of such significance....???? Websters??? IDeas???
STeve
