As it turns out, I don't think I needed to spend the inordinate amount of time getting disc off hub unless I am missing something. Anyway, three of the four bolts came out and the fourth will require getting the rest of the drilled out bolt out and then making sure threads are still good.
Got spindle nut off using a variety of tools to push out the two crushed portions of the nut. The nut was a normal clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen.
Now that I got it off, please tell me just what I have. In the outboard pics looks like the nut attached directly to the bearing component and I could easily remove bearing by just pulling it out. Was there supposed to be some sort of seal? Inside the top was the female portion the bearing sat in. How do I remove that component? Are these components Timken LM67048, LM67010? Where is seal 4117608?
Inboard pic is back of disc. Nothing came out of the back like the front side. I assume the ring at the top must be the seal. How best to remove? Inside the inboard part of the hub, I didn't feel the same male and female Timken parts like I did on the outboard. Can I assume once the seal (4117608??) is removed I'll find the the male and female bearing components just like on the front? Are those parts Timken LM11949, LM11910.
I've scene online how to pack bearings. Got it. How about the inside of the hub? Do I fill it with bearing grease completely before reinstalling on spindle?
Have read various versions of this on the forum, but when reinstalling, the hub/disc goes back on the spindle and the nut goes tightens onto the spindle. What is the best technique for tightening and torquing the spindle nut? what are the various torques applied during tightening process and what is the final torque on the nut before putting the cap back on?
Thanks for the assistance. Never done this before.
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Knocking out the bearing races is rather easy but it takes some finesse to install the new parts without damaging… same holds true for the rear seal…
in your case, I would probably suggest to go to a Automotive shop and let them change the races, give them the inner bearing may be packed and pop the rear seal in as well..
You probably may be able to watch and wait for it…
I personally like to use a press to install… it is doable to take the old race or/and a socket and a hammer…
whatever you choose… always support the hub do NOT use the studs to support the hub!!!!!
OK you are correct about your statement of disc/hub.
Your bearings did have "no lack of grease"!! Good thing, but better to be safe than sorry! We were on a tour in France with a guy that had just bought a "fully restored" Pantera.....that suddenly locked up a front wheel.....upon some roadside mechanical work we discovered NO GREASE in the wheel bearing! Car was towed to nearby shop for further work. I suggested that they check the other side just to be safe....... Yup, NO GREASE there either!!!
SO, you've got grease. There must have been a seal some where in all that grease.....clean things up a bit and look at the bearings and races for blueing or wear streaks......odd wear....... The bearings and races could actually be in very good condition!
Your bearing/race numbers will be stamped or etched on the inner races of the bearing and the outer side of the races. If you are doing it by hand, as set of bearing "pushers" comes in handy....... or a brass drift/punch of sorts..... Softer material prevents damage to the races...... You WALK them out if using a drift....a little at a time.....you don't want to damage that aluminum carrier. Otherwise a bearing puller or similar on a press to pull/push them straight out is best.
Grease on!!!
Steve
Got components (all inline with corresponding parts manual page) completely apart with the exception of the two races and inner spacer. Will use Steve's technique on races. How best to get inner spacer sitting on inner race out?
Also, although it appears to create a good seal, does rubber o-ring around hub need to be replaced?
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That rear (inner) race looks really nice as does the outer one! I don't think I would mess with trying to take them out! You risk damaging the hub.
I don't recall what I had to do to take out the spacer. It isn't much of a piece and it may have simply come out with the race when I pushed it out.
You mention o-ring....do you mean seals? (I don't recall an o-ring....but I'm old and it is excusable to do so!)
Since you have the seals (?) put the new ones in....with a little grease on the lip. Pack some extra grease in the middle of the hub but do not pack it fulllllll! It needs room to expand a little. It will level out.
I can't tell real good about that outer race from the pic, but it looks like no boogers and an even contact pattern consistent with the portion that doesn't come in contact with the bearings.....not a lot of mileage on them!
In my case, the synthetic wheel grease that I used failed me......so I only go with the Molybdenum filled "Ford wheel bearing grease" from o'Reilly's for all of my wheel bearings. I know that there are some synthetics that are really really good.....I just haven't come across them yet....
Steve
Got outer race pounded out without any problems or damage...inner race not so much...due to the shape of the hubs inside cone shape, cannot get my drift to sit on what appears to be a much smaller lip on the inner race than was available for pounding on outer race...any tricks to getting the inner race out (I am assuming the spacer will come out once the race moves it)...would this cheap 3 jaw bearing puller from amazon work?
The three jaw sounds like over kill....... A set of bearing mandrels could be in order....but a crap shoot there also to get the exact size you need! IF you have a metal lathe you could cut one to size or simply make one....... Goose tool #241......
Either a finer tipped punch (gently grind your old buggered up punch flat (if not already!) on a fine grinding wheel!)...go easy on it tapping it out..... OR just haul your two hubs down to a machine shop and see if they have a set of mandrels that will fit inside the hub directly on the small race sticking out....and they can then press them out.
It's always something......!
Steve
For 14 bucks for no fuss, home delivery tomorrow, and knowing I'm going to need the same thing on the other wheels, this puller will be part of my "frustration reduction act". And, unlike the "inflation reduction act", bet it'll work!
At least only you are frustrated… high Inflation is worldwide!!!
Absolutely correct! Hope that's true. Car rebuild, heavy mnx frustration, I wouldn't wish on anyone. However, feel fortunate to be able to have that frustration!
@muttsjet posted:Absolutely correct! Hope that's true. Car rebuild, heavy mnx frustration, I wouldn't wish on anyone. However, feel fortunate to be able to have that frustration!
I’m fighting my electric for 2 weeks now.. it’s just 😵💫🤯😳
And they call this a "hobby" !!!
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Here we go
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"Frustration Reduction Act" only worked at 30% level. 3 jaw puller could not attach to bottom of inner race, amount of lip showing minimal... will use on other outer races...amazingly, the 44mm bushing driver I used from the Bearing Race and Seal Bushing Driver Install Set to install the outer race fit the top of the race perfectly but the angle of the recessed portion did not match the race...could have ground it to fit but then it would have been rough insert against race...turned it upside down centered race and pounded it in just fine.
Did you try warming the aluminum hub to around 375F ?
On Monday, June 3, 2024 at 01:19:03 PM PDT, The De Tomaso Forums <alerts@crowdstack.com> wrote:
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"Frustration Reduction Act" only worked at 30% level. 3 jaw puller could not attach to bottom of inner race, amount of lip showing minimal... will use on other outer races...amazingly, the 44mm bushing driver I used from the Bearing Race and Seal Bushing Driver Install Set to install the outer race fit the top of the race perfectly but the angle of the recessed portion did not match the race...could have ground it to fit but then it would have been rough insert against race...turned it upside down centered race and pounded it in just fine.
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On Monday, June 3, 2024 at 01:19:03 PM PDT, The De Tomaso Forums <alerts@crowdstack.com> wrote:
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New Reply By muttsjetM
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| Goose 8MA642 Refurb and RepaintMReply by muttsjet
"Frustration Reduction Act" only worked at 30% level. 3 jaw puller could not attach to bottom of inner race, amount of lip showing minimal... will use on other outer races...amazingly, the 44mm bushing driver I used from the Bearing Race and Seal Bushing Driver Install Set to install the outer race fit the top of the race perfectly but the angle of the recessed portion did not match the race...could have ground it to fit but then it would have been rough insert against race...turned it upside down centered race and pounded it in just fine.
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Got a freezer you can put it in over night? Perhaps some mild thermal expansion/contraction will help...
MH
Can someone help us keep the players straight?
Muttsjet - 8MA0642 Car Done?
Lee - 8MA???? Car Done?
Mike - 8MA???? Car Done?
Maugusta - 8MA???? Car Done & Sold?
Thanks…. Hard to keep straight, but I know this thread is for you, and not me…
Rocky
8MA642 - back from paint after 9 years and totally stripped down...right now, as first part of project, replacing/rebuilding all clutch/brake/[suspension at least in the front for now] components and installing new lines...am working my way front to back...multiyear project