Goose 8MA642 Refurb and Repaint

The Goose is now in the shop for repaint (will probably get it back in the fall). Based on thickness of the various layers and skin cleanup due to age, the car will be taken to bare metal and repainted. Will get all chrome components rechromed and have appropriate components powder coated. Will also be going from red to the original metallic gold (example of original color from behind seat insulation attached). In the mean time, will be performing motor rebuild to include installing correct cam (Crane Cams 363841) for IDA Webers on Boss 302; fabricating 'up and over' headers due to limited space between Boss motor and engine bay; planning how to force cool air thru just the radiator in line with other forum posts; etc).

Appreciate all the advise.

Thanx
Mark

MARK,
I suggest an adjustable, brake proportioning valve to be installed in the front brake T. They make them now to include the stop light switch.
A huge safety improvement.

Dick Ruzzin

Btw, what car is that in the May 27th post ? the proto didn't have the gas filler outside and had different headlights, I see this one has external hinges (!) so someone went thru a lot of work to make a beautiful car...Lee

Lee.

That car is "numero uno"!

Factory museum car, originally a push car...later converted to an operational car!

My DNA is in that car....
Steve

Wow....btw, there is a guy in Florida (our friend Al, the Vintage Air guy...) that has parts from this prototype...Lee

I doubt they are parts from THE prototype. They may be similar but the prototype is alive and well, the DeT family kept it. If I recall correctly a member here has a one piece bumper just like the prototype car.

It is alive and well. Just saw it last week, and it will appear in a upcoming book about the deTomaso brand.

Oh, and I asked about the comment about the first mangusta being a push car, and later made functional. my Aunt did not think that was correct. She did recall that for shows several engines were shown in the car, but many were just "press fitted" into the car for display. The example was there was a special photo session for Corgi when they came to photograph and measure the car for the miniature. I do know that in 1978, there was a Cleavland in the car, as I worked on it that summer.

Do you know anything about the gold Mangusta touring the track at Monte Carlo after the push car was shown in the Turin show giving Princess Grace a ride?

Dick Ruzzin

Received windshield (14802100 - 260EU), two rear doors (14802110 - 290EU), drv and pass door (14802160 - 64EU), and front bonnet (14802180 - 80EU) rubber from Cicognani today. Process was very easy and they were very responsive. Won't be installing for a couple of months so can't comment on fit yet. Shipping was 75EU. Total was 769EU.

Hi Mark, I am in discussions with them at present re the fit of the rear hatch glass. if you get a chance could you try and lay the seals around your glass as this will give a very good indication if they are correct. I know there windscreen fits correctly now thanks to Johnny Woods efforts with then. Mike

Car is in strip and paint for a few months so won't be able to check seals until they get to that stage.

Thanks Mark, I have sent them a detailed diagram with sizes and radius of edge where curved to hopefully ensure a good fit. Will see how we go.
Mike

Radiator
- status while in car was no leaks
- from what material is original goose radiator constructed
- with radiator removed from car, what is best approach to cleaning it
- for storing over the next three-to four months, should I fill with 50/50 mix to prevent corrosion
- any ideas would be appreciated

Thanx
Mark

Mark,

I didn't get the original radiator with my car, but these were built by the same company that built radiators for Fiats, or so I was told, and our old Fiat had a brass radiator.

Most that still have them, are happy with them as far as cooling goes! Providing you get cool air into the motor to begin with...!

I would drain it, rinse it out, and just let it air dry. In TX that shouldn't be much of an issue.

If you are going to have it serviced, ie professionally cleaned, a shop will server you best here as they'll have a large tank to dunk it in...save you a lot of PITA work! Have them flow test it first. If it flows fine...it doesn't need much cleaning!

Cheers! That gold is going to look nice! Can't wait to see more pic's!
Steve

get it to a radiator shop and have it inspected...mine needed to be rebuilt, lots of clogs in the fins. The wonderful news is that these brass radiators can be rebuilt...Same with the interior heater core.
You just really don't want to guess whether the radiator is cooling as it should...just too easy to have a radiator looked at professionally. Especially for a 45 year old Italian car...Lee

Hi Folks.
I am starting repainting my Mangusta 8MA1242 bought 3 years ago. It is painted red, but, as it often turns out, when peeling off that paint, the original color appeared : dark (slightly metallized) blue.
Problem is, in Denis C post from June 27,2011,this color is not mentioned. However, 8MA1242 is a late car, and, according to Pantera International, the official colour catalog of the early Panteras features a "Bleu sera met. n°033.8.012" from Glidden (Industria Smalti e Vernici, Milano).
Would anyone know if that colour was also used on Mangustas ?
Thank you for your advice.
Jean

Radiator .... took to shop to have cleaned and they saw some sodder that needed to be prepared. They did the work and tested it today. They called saying the core has pin hole leaks and can be rebuilt for about $600 ... what are your thoughts ... go with an after market modern radiator (and if so what is best make and model for mangusta), or get the original repaired?

Thanx
Mark

Mark,
I'd say it's $600 of one or $600 of the other....!!!

The originals are alleged to be fantastic radiators.......

I put a new aluminum one in ONLY because my original was long gone and mounts were already modified (not to great standards..), not to mention all the fan stuff was cobbled together too.....so it wasn't like I was "changing" anything from stock.

I would like to see the original style maintained if possible. But that's me.

If they can get you the same style of core, with all the fins etc, that would be great!!!!

Fans could probably use help however. At very least, take originals out, lube the bronze bearings with oil, and seal up any air leaks around the radiator so air doesn't bypass it!
(thanks Dick!!!)

Steve

Radiator ... the rest of the story ... the radiator shop can recore the original brass and copper radiator for $625 (takes about 3 days since one of the 2 or 3 core plants left in the states happens to be in Fort Worth -- near where I live). They said I could go with either the original inline tubes with flat pins, or for a 20% increase in cooling for same price, go with staggered tubes and louvered pins maintaining original look. They indicated that unless someone got down and was looking at the core, the radiator would look the same since they are reusing the original tank components. What do you think -- upgraded original? Original? Or modern radiator?

Thanx for you help
Mark