Anyone know which goose this is?
Anyone know which goose this is?
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I can say that they have called it a "1968". I can say the rear hubs are unusual looking to me. I can say that the grille inside the front lower scoop (below the actual grille) is unfamiliar to me. I am used to seeing no grille mesh in there.
The grille there is correct, the intercrimp was used in 3 places (between the headlights, between the brake lights, and at the front spoiler opening. The lower intake I think I've seen in both diamond cut and (mine, pictured) square cut (at 29" wide).
Much of the suspension in the car here is unfamiliar to me--esp, the front A-arms seem only out of tube-section, and on my 8ma1076 the construction and gusseting is different. One picture suggests that the last time the car was on the road it hit something low, the original left A-arm bent, the wheel broken from the inside out...
The front brakes may be replacement as well (at least, I don't know if Girling had the giant screwdriver slot (!) But otherwise, yes, its a first generation car at least (dash is switches down). Someone spent a lot of time on this car before (with lightening holes in the rear suspension bridge?)
Girling rear calipers on Mangusta were manufactured with 2 hole cover. Other applications had the coin slot cover. I believe the rear upright has a rear brake rotor hat in it (rotor per se is not there). A lot of rust on that car.
Denis, what do you know about changes on the A-arms? I see what you mean, here is a picture of an upright in Ebay Spain, vs. the 17/3 12/3 cast iron pieces on '1076, vs. the aluminum 2-piston pieces used front and rear on '1046. It seems the answer on a Goose is "all the above..."
I’ll let Steve chime in. I know he’s said later cars had reinforced lowers but that is all I can recall.
Those hub carriers look like mine but the surfaces look crudely done. I wonder if it is a copy?
EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW THAT:
>THE DRIVE AXLES ARE LIFT-A-LOFT PARTS. probably also used by other manufacturers of heavy equipment. Much lower in cost i am sure than from suppliers.
I decided to call the body shop and ask for the VIN, worst they can say is "No" right? Turns out the goose belongs to the shop's owner Greg Kalmes and the car is 8MA584. Greg and I spoke for close to half an hour, nice guy. He's a member on here, just hasn't been very active. Hopefully he'll check in and we can help reinvigorate his project. He's got a way to go and knows it, but he owns an auto shop, so as we say in Texas "God willing and the creek don't rise" he'll get her back on the road some day.
Did anyone else notice the roof? Greg is trying to find evidence to this being a full factory sunroof. He says it looks very nicely done and appears to be original to the car, but hasn't been able to find any records of such an option on the production models.
The sunroof is 8MA766 appears to be a two piece unit
My Mangusta is 8MA584 and is listed in the DeTomaso registry. I have repaired the nose section and the tail section and will be starting on the installation of the new rocker panels and floors soon. Here are a couple of pictures of the inside of the removable sunroof as well as some of the work that's been done so far.
Greg, we've been watching the car That sunroof is unique. the prototype Goose had a glass roof, I don't know if it was removable. Is there any provision around the sunroof for a water drain? The brown car was a birthday present from Dean Martin to Ricci, but is listed on Provamo as a modification by Fantuzzi. If anybody possibly has pictures of the latching mechanism on that car's Targa roof that look the same, great...but otherwise, you may just decide if you like an open top (!) At least, its unlikely to find factory information on the car for the sunroof, and if your car really preceded the Martin car proving an relevance to the factory may be tough...Lee
More pictures of the restoration work on my Mangusta (8MA584) posted today on the DeTomaso Registry.
I am just curious. What are you doing about the steel/aluminum corossion problem?
Dick, if you are referring to the engine covers it will be awhile before I get to that part of the restoration. Right now I am concentrating on rebuilding the structure to get some strength back into the car. I have fabricated the new rocker panels and floor braces and I will be starting on that part of the car soon. But as far as the aluminum corrosion goes I suspect I will have to cut the lower several inches of the engine cover sheet metal off and fabricate new repair panels for those areas.
The hood is also aluminum, like the engine covers it is a sheet of aluminum pop riveted to a steel frame. Add salt and water and you have a battery.
There s published information by AUDI addressing this issue as they ahave done aluminum bodies on steel frames. If you could do something to prevent the erosion that every Mangusta will ultimately have that would be great for your car.
Dick, The front hood on my car appears to be corrosion free, it's just the rear engine covers that have some issues. I will be sure to do some research before I tackle that particular problem. Thanks for the tip about the information from AUDI. I will look for that.
Water splashes up from the wheels, hits the engine cover then slides down into the seam at the bttom of the cover. The seal on the body side really does not sto it.
In the well ehind the wheel on each side I drilled a 1/4 inch hole to drain it as water would collect in there.
My car has not been in the rain since 1986. And i do not wash it with a hose.
...the drain holes there are smart. I did make drain holes in esp the rear wheel houses (beneath the battery and AC drier), unless you make holes intentionally to drain the car holes will be created for you...
And on 8ma1046 and 1076, did have galvanic corrosion exactly in the area you mention (lower edge of the engine covers, where the aluminum is crimped over the steel frame). DeT used copper rivets when fastening Al and Steel together (ex, the noise covers over the engine and the intake inlets between the rear inner wheel housing and the paper tubes...). But otherwise, the prevention is to avoid the electrical connection -- esp, paint on the steel and tape between the steel and aluminum, so they electrically are isolated. And of course, maybe only available when replacing new AL.
While you have the chance, cleaning out the inner doors, making a swimming pool internally with POR-15, then drilling drain holes for water to exit are smart. The goose is something like a roach motel for water (easy to come in, hard to leave...)--Lee