Skip to main content

Greg, I am continually impressed, this is going to be a solid, straight car that will live for another 100 years… Yes, the gussets were added pretty late, somewhere around 8ma1050. The (2) holes in each were swaged.
The copper rivets were esp used whenever there was any contact between steel and aluminum—for example, the steel braces against the carpeted aluminum engine covers, or the cast air intakes on the engine wall sides (terminating near the battery on the left and jack), or a few on the hood. Galvanic corrosion esp between the gullwing engine covers and the steel chassis is common on the Goose, and requires electrical isolation (paint and/or tape when the surfaces are crimped together) and use copper rivets…otherwise, moisture and dissimilar metal creates a battery (!) Lee


Missed one point when I was looking..... the lower mount for the inner rear a-arm Unibal joints....  As built that "H" shaped piece is held only to the rest of the chassis on one side of the "H".

As you have added the other upper reinforcements in the rear suspension area, I would consider building the rear side of the "H" up to the frameworks.  BUT, that area of the long arms going to the rear of the frame looks different from what I remember seeing.......  I have not heard of any of these breaking off.......but, what do I know!  Perhaps others with early cars can chime in!!!   Need to do a little sleuthing to see what's what here!

Found a couple of shots of my rear engine bay showing "mid production" build!



Images (2)
  • engcomp0410strip19
  • engcomp0410strip20
Last edited by mangusta

AAAAGH!  BOOGER WELDING ABOUNDS....or as I also call it "worm welding" if you squeezed a worm a few times to get piles of poo like you found!!!  Now, you also say that some of this may have been from prior "repairs" due to offroading experience........  BUTT, I have seen pic's of factory welding that looked very similar to what you have!

Then there are other cars, that have really proper nice welding throughout......   My car had beautiful welds, but I never knew where the factory ended and prior owners "clean up" and restore or "show car" efforts!

You had asked about the numbers and frame markings near the serial number.....have never seen the format that you have here!   "Normally" you find some sort of a star then an 8MAxxxx and another star.......but your car being only the 42'cnd ish car built..... things were probably sort of fluid......!!!

Outstanding progress!!!!



Mangusta414Mangusta415Mangusta416Mangusta417Mangusta418Mangusta419Mangusta420Mangusta421Mangusta422Mangusta423Mangusta424Mangusta425Mangusta426Mangusta427Mangusta428Mangusta429Mangusta430Mangusta431Mangusta432Mangusta433Mangusta434Mangusta435Mangusta436Mangusta437Mangusta438Mangusta439Mangusta440Mangusta441Mangusta442I finally made some time this last week to rebuild one of my Mangusta doors. As you can see I didn't have a lot to work with but I found a small section of one of the two doors that I could use a profile gauge on to make a pattern. So after bending up the lower door repair and making the two corners I could then start on making the outer lower skin. I had the door on and off about a dozen time to tweak the gaps and then tack weld it together but it's pretty close. A little more adjustment here and there and I can then take the door off again and finish welding it.


Images (29)
  • Mangusta414
  • Mangusta415
  • Mangusta416
  • Mangusta417
  • Mangusta418
  • Mangusta419
  • Mangusta420
  • Mangusta421
  • Mangusta422
  • Mangusta423
  • Mangusta424
  • Mangusta425
  • Mangusta426
  • Mangusta427
  • Mangusta428
  • Mangusta429
  • Mangusta430
  • Mangusta431
  • Mangusta432
  • Mangusta433
  • Mangusta434
  • Mangusta435
  • Mangusta436
  • Mangusta437
  • Mangusta438
  • Mangusta439
  • Mangusta440
  • Mangusta441
  • Mangusta442
Last edited by Greg Kalmes

Add Reply

Link copied to your clipboard.