Dick, The front hood on my car appears to be corrosion free, it's just the rear engine covers that have some issues. I will be sure to do some research before I tackle that particular problem. Thanks for the tip about the information from AUDI. I will look for that.

Greg

Water splashes up from the wheels, hits the engine cover then slides down into the seam at the bttom of the cover.  The seal on the body side really does not sto it.

In the well ehind the wheel on each side I drilled a 1/4 inch hole to drain it as water would collect in there.

My car has not been in the rain since 1986.  And i do not wash it with a hose.

Dick Ruzzin

...the drain holes there are smart. I did make drain holes in esp the rear wheel houses (beneath the battery and AC drier), unless you make holes intentionally to drain the car holes will be created for you...

And on 8ma1046 and 1076, did have galvanic corrosion exactly in the area you mention (lower edge of the engine covers, where the aluminum is crimped over the steel frame).  DeT used copper rivets when fastening Al and Steel together (ex, the noise covers over the engine and the intake inlets between the rear inner wheel housing and the paper tubes...). But otherwise, the prevention is to avoid the electrical connection -- esp, paint on the steel and tape between the steel and aluminum, so they electrically are isolated. And of course, maybe only available when replacing new AL.

While you have the chance, cleaning out the inner doors, making a swimming pool internally with POR-15, then drilling drain holes for water to exit are smart. The goose is something like a roach motel for water (easy to come in, hard to leave...)--Lee

@Greg Kalmes posted:

Lee,    Thanks. I've been spending most of my weekends and some days during the week working on the car. I'm hoping to have the floors done within the next two weeks. I will post more pictures as I get further along.                                                                           Greg

@Greg Kalmes posted:

A few more pictures of the rust repair on my Mangusta.

awesome pictures, Greg. You are making great progress and the work looks terrific...Lee

@leea posted:

awesome pictures, Greg. You are making great progress and the work looks terrific...Lee

@Greg Kalmes posted:

Here is what 250 plus hours of rust repair and metal work and 2 days worth of sandblasting looks like........a rust free 1968 Mangusta. Now come lots of bodywork....filling, straightening, and primering. I am looking forward to it.

@Greg Kalmes posted:

Here is what 250 plus hours of rust repair and metal work and 2 days worth of sandblasting looks like........a rust free 1968 Mangusta. Now come lots of bodywork....filling, straightening, and primering. I am looking forward to it.

Greg, looks like great, solid work that is going to produce a really good car...Lee

@leea posted:

Greg, looks like great, solid work that is going to produce a really good car...Lee

Thanks Lee. I am looking forward to the bodywork phase of this project even though there is a huge amount. I will continue to post pictures as the work progresses.

Congrats on the great work. Love what I see in a world where body shops just want to do in&out insurance work. You'll find a few knowledgeable Mangusta owners on this forum should you need information.

Wow, hats off to you Greg...  You're getting to the fun part now.   Great work, I look forward to seeing your progress.

MH

@Greg Kalmes posted:

At some time in it's history my Mangusta went down in a ditch when it was stolen. As a result of the bell housing getting caught on something, most of the brackets holding it in place were broken and then poorly repaired. I fabricated some new brackets to make correct repairs and also reinforced some areas.

Greg, Those gussets will add a great deal of rigidity.  They were a production add on with the later cars. There should be a couple of "lightening holes" in them and they were fastened to the side wall with copper rivets.

Thanks for the update. love it