I got a new switch for the headlights after the toggle appeared worn out and headlights weren't working anyway. My old one said "Lights" on it, the new one has the picture of a light with the beam marks coming from it. I assume the new one I have is from a later model. Does someone have a picture of the wiring to this type of switch, or can take a picture of it? The good news is my headlight motors work and raised, with the lights, the bad news is they won't go back down. That and the running lights only turn on when I have the switch all the way over in the 3rd position, whereas I believe they are supposed to turn on at the middle position of the switch like they did before. I tried hooking up the wires exactly like the previous one, but the spades were in a different arrangement. I'm pretty sure the wires are just on the wrong spades. If pictures are needed I can provide them, but I just need someone to show pictures of their switch with the logo of the headlamp on it.
Original Post
Thank you! I will take a look at that when I get home tonight, would be nice to fix this headlight issue once and for all so I can install the Pantera Electronics Headlight Controller sitting here in its box. I just wanted the headlamps to function correctly before I added more variables to the equation.

On a side note, this may be something I can find in the manual, but how is the high/low beam operation supposed to work on the car. The headlights haven't worked since I purchased the car, so bear with me. From what I understand the switch has 3 positions. Off, parking lights, headlamps. What actuates the high/low beams?
Turn signal stalk activates the high beams. Push towards the dash for high. Pull back for lows.
Doug M
Ha, jb beat me to it by 2 minutes.
Those wiring diagrams from panteraplace are fantastic. I,ve printed off every one of them.
You will love the headlight controller. Works great.
I installed the quad light conversion and the controlled over the winter. The great thing with the controller is it unloads all the heavy current from the switches.
No, I don't have the fan control. I wired mine to operate manually. I got a heater fan switch with 2 positions and mounted it in the bottom slot that was unused. Wired the switch to 2 new Bosch relays. Draw fan power direct from the battery. Works great.
BTW, I also installed their ATO fuse panel. Beautiful piece of work. Should be seriously considered for an upgrade.
Doug M
Yeah the Pantera Electronics ATO fuse panel was the first thing I did before trying to tackle all the electrical gremlins, and immediately the electric fans started working again after swapping it in. That sold me on the Headlight Controller. If you read about the features it provides to the stock system, it just makes sense to get it.

I just didn't want to plug it in without having a working system first.
jbl490, I wanted to thank you, I copied your diagram and took it down to the garage and changed the wiring over and bingo everything was in working order. The only thing left is to get the motors to go back down now. I'll do some more searching on the site, but I think I found an article that said to clean the micro/limit switches.
quote:
I copied your diagram and took it down to the garage and changed the wiring over and bingo everything was in working order


I love it when a plan comes together. Big Grin

Before you take anything apart, try putting a jumper wire across the down limit switch. It is the rear switch with the green and brown wires. The headlight switch must be OFF, and the ignition switch must be on (ACC or Run). Then connect the jumper wire across the two switch terminals. You should be able to do this with the wires connected to the switch. Otherwise, connect the jumper to the wires. Also, try to wiggle or tap on the switch or press on the switch arm before trying the jumper.
Another thing people don't realize is, you can DISASSEMBLE the two headlight limit microswitches and clean the contacts. Oxidation on the internal switch contacts sometimes causes odd effects. Radio Shack spray contact-cleaner or equivalent will shine them up. The stuff also works on the OEM fusebox contacts and inside the various multiconnectors, all of which have corrosion issues.
Thanks for the info, both of you. The previous owner said he had done just that, cleaned the contacts and then after a few years back to what it is doing now. Will be nice to know I can drive the car and not worry about making it home before dark Wink I missed a great looking small town festival worrying about making it back on the ferry and then home a few weeks ago.
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