heater valve question

I did this: pantera.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/7890077274/m/6391075316/p/1

Peter, there are two different production valves. One uses a bent rod, the other has a flat metal arm. Both leaked internally from new. The leverage of the cable dashboard controller is such that it can be adjusted to either be (almost) completely shut off and only half open when heater/defroster is needed, or (factory setting) to open completely but be 1/3 open all the time. This is why it's important to add a ball-valve shut-off to both in and out heater lines, as the valve sees some pressure all the time and the supply hose(s) can rupture at high rpms. When (not if) this happens, the car completely fills with steam and mist, opaquing the windows and usually broiling an ankle. If this happen at high rpms, you are blind and in pain at high speed.

If you meant the valve is externally leaking, both types use a tiny o-ring inside to seal the open/close shaft. Some U.S. vendors stock it but your best bet is to buy a kit of high quality Viton fluorocarbon o-rings from a hardware store; Harbor Freight sells a kit. There should be a proper size o-ring inside, and the kits only cost $15 USD for 50-100 o-rings of different sizes.

Try this link for Larry's fix.

http://tinyurl.com/heater-valve-repairs

John

Peter,

Here a link to download an Image Resizer Utility

It will put the utility your right mouse click menu.

Steve

Hello Folks
My computer skills are dismal the pics were "Zipped" as per Steves programme but they were still 1150 KB which exceeds the 270KB allowable.

My bent rod valve I have now got the seals out the seal around the rod is a lip seal allowing the water to hold the seal tighter around the rod, an O ring wouldn't work I don't think.

Larry your fix looks excellent but how is the rod sealed is there an olive in there?

Thanks to all for the assistance.

quote:

Originally posted by Peter Fenlon:..but they were still 1150 KB which exceeds the 270KB allowable....

another method to resize is to use the MS Paint (should be included with most MS operating systems) then use the Image > Stretch/Screw. for a 270:1150 reduction, use 23% for both V and H

Tightening the compression fitting packing nut packs the teflon valve stem packing material around the rod for a watertight seal. Be sure the rod is polished smooth and clean. Rough spots will cause a leak.

Don't go too tight or the rod will bind and the 'heat' control lever won't be able to move it.

If it weeps later on, tighten the packing nut a little more.

Peter,
With my Windows7/Thunderbird email system, picking any photo and emailing it to myself allows me to choose various sizes.
Your mileage may vary........

information about posting pictures is available here:

posting pictures

A question: Is there a way to replace that short heater hose section .. the ankle scalder .. without draining the whole cooling system? Mine doesn't leak but it is old so why take any chances.

Robbie

Thanks to George I seem to now be able to do what 5 year olds take for granted and post a pic. To go back to the explanation, seals now visible, but I cannot source the teflon seals that Larry has kindly posted, I have bought a London Taxi valve and am trying to modify that, if success flu I shall post the results. Also my chassis is covered in a Crud of some sort had a scrape this afternoon and was pleasantly surprised to find good paint beneath, there is a good ending, but only sometimes.

Robbie, you can try removing the firewall access door and pinching both the heater line hoses closed with Vice-Grip pliers, but no guarantees it will stay perfectly dry under the dash! Have rags handy.