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I've changed the headlights for RHD ones...but can't get them to work...so I changed them back to the originals and they don't work either now...I have 12 volts at the plug but once the headlight is plugged in the voltage dosapears..I've removed the fuses and cleaned them and the carriers but to no avail..anyone gotta a clue?
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Measure the voltage with the headlight installed. If it drops well below 12VDC when the lights are turned on, you may have a bad connection in the circuit that is not allowing enough current to flow.

OOPS - sounds like you measured what I asked.... Now to find the problem.

Sorry - this is a detail follow the wire type check. Do the high beams work?

Rocky
quote:
Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Made a right mess of it, whilst testing the headlighs I managed to turn them off, the lamp was'nt fitted so jammed in the housing when the lights retracted, so now they still don't work but it's no biggie 'cos you can't see the f..ers anyway


Lol. Sorry to laugh at your expense but that's funny!! I feel your pain!!
quote:
Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Made a right mess of it, whilst testing the headlighs I managed to turn them off, the lamp was'nt fitted so jammed in the housing when the lights retracted, so now they still don't work but it's no biggie 'cos you can't see the f..ers anyway


Oh God! I'd try to help but I'm not good with the headlight assembly.

I have some stick on bullet hole decals on the buckets but I'm thinking of putting real ones in them? What da' think?
quote:
Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Ok...got the headlights popping up and down, both full beams working but only one dipped beam, Power is leaving the fuse box and the lamp is working so it's a problem between fuse and lamp , I suspect a bad connection at the switch but can't see how to remove the housing around the steering coloum ..anyone any ideas?



There are four 8mmX 1.25 bolts holding the steering column the chassis. Remove the two that are closest to the steering wheel completely and loosen the other two. There is a small screw coming from each side on the column itself. One is a sheet metal screw and the other is a machine screw. Remove those and the two plastic covers will come off.


Ron
quote:
Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Ok...got the headlights popping up and down, both full beams working but only one dipped beam, Power is leaving the fuse box and the lamp is working so it's a problem between fuse and lamp , I suspect a bad connection at the switch but can't see how to remove the housing around the steering coloum ..anyone any ideas?


the on/off and hi/low switched provide power (gray wire) to the all four fuses for the headlamps. so when on low, if you have power across fuses F5/6 then the problem is the wiring from the fuses to the headlamps

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If you have power to the fuse then it is not the switch. There is a connector in the wiring harness behind the headlight bucket in the fender that gets corrosion and causes the problem you are having. You need to remove the tire and wheel and also the splash shield to get to it. A good cleaning of the contacts in this connector should do it.
Expanding on Forest's note: the hot wire for the headlight switch goes to an isolating grommet/vibration mount 'thing' that I've had trouble with. The motor must run isolated from ground. The actual motor wire is only about 3" long, then it plugs into the isolater. Which is bakelite and often cracks. Once cracked, the wire either opens (no power to the motor) or shorts (blows fuse). I had one that cracked and soaked up enough water that it sizzled when the key was on and the light switch was activated.

The simple fix is to remove all the grommet/isolater parts that hold the wire to the back of the motor case, connect the motor wire to the loom wire, tape or otherwise insulate the connection and zip-tie the combination to the motor body to prevent vibration from harming the very short motor wire. This may not be all of your problem but I assure you- its worth doing!
Two possibilities that come to mind.

1. The bulb is bad.
2. lose spade connector in one of the many plastic connectors between the switch, relay, fuse panel, and headlight.

For what it is worth I chased #2 for months but finally found it after pulling every connector apart and removing the female spades to check them.

Steve
Just gotta free the heater controls now, changing the way the indicators flash is going to be beyond me so I'll leave that to the professionals but can't move the car yet as it's still not registered, waiting for the insurance company to get a new windscreen made and fitted as it was cracked in transit, it going to be another 6-7 weeks...doh!

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