Help with headlights??

Measure the voltage with the headlight installed. If it drops well below 12VDC when the lights are turned on, you may have a bad connection in the circuit that is not allowing enough current to flow.

OOPS - sounds like you measured what I asked.... Now to find the problem.

Sorry - this is a detail follow the wire type check. Do the high beams work?

Rocky

One high beams does...the other not..but I've had them working previously...

quote:

Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
..but I've had them working previously...

Exactly. You've disturbed the connectors which typically get corroded. I'd check all the various connectors and clean them if necessary. A contact cleaner should do the trick. And as always, check the grounds.

Check the on / off switch and the Hi / low beam switch - both can cause problems?

Made a right mess of it, whilst testing the headlighs I managed to turn them off, the lamp was'nt fitted so jammed in the housing when the lights retracted, so now they still don't work but it's no biggie 'cos you can't see the f..ers anyway

quote:

Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Made a right mess of it, whilst testing the headlighs I managed to turn them off, the lamp was'nt fitted so jammed in the housing when the lights retracted, so now they still don't work but it's no biggie 'cos you can't see the f..ers anyway

Lol. Sorry to laugh at your expense but that's funny!! I feel your pain!!

quote:

Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Made a right mess of it, whilst testing the headlighs I managed to turn them off, the lamp was'nt fitted so jammed in the housing when the lights retracted, so now they still don't work but it's no biggie 'cos you can't see the f..ers anyway

Oh God! I'd try to help but I'm not good with the headlight assembly.

I have some stick on bullet hole decals on the buckets but I'm thinking of putting real ones in them? What da' think?

Well Elvis shot his...I think I'll kick mine to death

Ok...got the headlights popping up and down, both full beams working but only one dipped beam, Power is leaving the fuse box and the lamp is working so it's a problem between fuse and lamp , I suspect a bad connection at the switch but can't see how to remove the housing around the steering coloum ..anyone any ideas?

quote:

Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Ok...got the headlights popping up and down, both full beams working but only one dipped beam, Power is leaving the fuse box and the lamp is working so it's a problem between fuse and lamp , I suspect a bad connection at the switch but can't see how to remove the housing around the steering coloum ..anyone any ideas?

There are four 8mmX 1.25 bolts holding the steering column the chassis. Remove the two that are closest to the steering wheel completely and loosen the other two. There is a small screw coming from each side on the column itself. One is a sheet metal screw and the other is a machine screw. Remove those and the two plastic covers will come off.


Ron

I had that happen and fixed the problem by cleaning the wire harness for that particular headlight. I found it behind the splash shield in the wheel well

quote:

Originally posted by Pishadeperro:
Ok...got the headlights popping up and down, both full beams working but only one dipped beam, Power is leaving the fuse box and the lamp is working so it's a problem between fuse and lamp , I suspect a bad connection at the switch but can't see how to remove the housing around the steering coloum ..anyone any ideas?

the on/off and hi/low switched provide power (gray wire) to the all four fuses for the headlamps. so when on low, if you have power across fuses F5/6 then the problem is the wiring from the fuses to the headlamps

Not meaning to steal this thread but on my headlights when the ignition is off you can turn on the headlights for as long as you want and no problem. Key on and the fuse blows in 10 seconds. So I'm sure it's in the ignition switch, but what and where?

quote:

Key on and the fuse blows in 10 seconds.

I assume it's fuse #10 that blows?

Disconnect both wires from the headlight door motor and try again. If the fuse does NOT blow, then the problem is in the motor.

John

Who's! What happened to the diagram..all I can see now is a red circle with a line thru'...what's all that about?

more than likely you need to "sign in"

Here is the link to the original full size
http://www.panteraplace.com/El...AND%20DOORS%20P1.pdf
and a link to all the electrical drawing
http://www.panteraplace.com/page107.htm

Thanks for your help...I'll have a go at it tonight..

If you have power to the fuse then it is not the switch. There is a connector in the wiring harness behind the headlight bucket in the fender that gets corrosion and causes the problem you are having. You need to remove the tire and wheel and also the splash shield to get to it. A good cleaning of the contacts in this connector should do it.

River Rat

Your problem is likely in the motor that raises the lights than in the ignition switch. Maybe a broken gear in the assembly. All the ignition switch does in this case is allow power to the motor for the raising mechanism. Most likely the motor itself but maybe a bare wire grounding somewhere.

The buckets raise ok...it's one side full beam that I've lost...I have voltage there but it disappears when I connect the headlight....

Expanding on Forest's note: the hot wire for the headlight switch goes to an isolating grommet/vibration mount 'thing' that I've had trouble with. The motor must run isolated from ground. The actual motor wire is only about 3" long, then it plugs into the isolater. Which is bakelite and often cracks. Once cracked, the wire either opens (no power to the motor) or shorts (blows fuse). I had one that cracked and soaked up enough water that it sizzled when the key was on and the light switch was activated.

The simple fix is to remove all the grommet/isolater parts that hold the wire to the back of the motor case, connect the motor wire to the loom wire, tape or otherwise insulate the connection and zip-tie the combination to the motor body to prevent vibration from harming the very short motor wire. This may not be all of your problem but I assure you- its worth doing!

It's not the motor!!...the lights raise and lower fine...it's the full beam on one side..both dipped beams work fine..and I even have power for the full beam..just not enough amps to power the light

Two possibilities that come to mind.

1. The bulb is bad.
2. lose spade connector in one of the many plastic connectors between the switch, relay, fuse panel, and headlight.

For what it is worth I chased #2 for months but finally found it after pulling every connector apart and removing the female spades to check them.

Steve

1/ kick car to death
2/ shot myself
3/ buy a Miata

May have to change the order

quote:

1/ kick car to death
2/ shot myself
3/ buy a Miata

May have to change the order

None of the above needed. Follow a process of elimination along with lots of patience.

Finally...I've. Fixed the headlights!!....onto the next fault now......

Well done. What were the final fixes?

I agree. Its not nice to ask for advice and the simply say you fixed it. What was the problem? Do say.

It was the connection under the light bucket...I removed the front wheel to find it

Good work! I didn't even realize there was a connector there, but it makes sense that there would be one....


Rocky

Just gotta free the heater controls now, changing the way the indicators flash is going to be beyond me so I'll leave that to the professionals but can't move the car yet as it's still not registered, waiting for the insurance company to get a new windscreen made and fitted as it was cracked in transit, it going to be another 6-7 weeks...doh!