Help with identifying this injection

here's another shot

Hello Mike; I can't help with your question, but I have a question.

In your picture a bolt is running through your valve cover.

My question is...Is the bolt just threaded into the valve cover?...or is there a nut Inside the valve cover & if so...is the nut WELDED to the inside of the valve cover?...Thanks!,...Mark

I will add...If the corresponding spark plugs in question were ALSO the same spark plugs affected by the air cleaner intrusion/coverage then FIRST PRIOR to contemplating spending MORE money.

Install the NEW spark plugs you have purchased, I "Personally" would run the engine WITHOUT any air cleaner, then get on the freeway ( after making SURE the engine runs well) & put 50 miles on the engine, return home & remove All 8 spark plugs, making SURE to label each spark plug as to what cylinder it was removed from.

NOW~!...if ALL 8 plugs look GREAT!...enjoy that HUGE GRIN!...& consider you didn't NEEDLESSLY spend $$$$$ on injectors you didn't need.

After covering the 50 miles on the freeway & having the spark plugs removed...NOW is the perfect time for the compression test.

Just make sure to wear a long sleeved shirt & gloves!...Mark

These are special tall Yates heads. They have completely different castings to accept the Jesel Rockers shafts.
It's a completelt different setup than what Ford used. More like stuff used in Nascar and Sprint car racing.
I assume this was maybe a hot setup for sprint cars back in the day.

There's like 6 or 8 allen head screws than go around the outside of each valve cover, along with those two bolts that go completely down into the head, and help hold the valve cover in place.

Again though, these are (C3L I think) tall Yates heads. Trick stuff for the day I assume.

I read they have figure-8 shaped beryllium copper valve seats. Heads like these were sold as "racing heads" with small ports, designed to then be further CNC'd to whatever specs that car/class/race required.

I know they are badass. I hope to keep them all together so next year I can go through the motor properly and have it running at 100%.

Now is the time though to drive the thing hard! It's already got it's first scratch, not so worried about hurting it, so the fun factor is a bit higher now after I get the car done. No taking it easy on Snow White.

I'm gonna do all that stuff the sweet Prince did to her after the movie ended and things went XXX.

quote:

Originally posted by 1Rocketship:
Hello Mike; I can't help with your question, but I have a question.

In your picture a bolt is running through your valve cover.

My question is...Is the bolt just threaded into the valve cover?...or is there a nut Inside the valve cover & if so...is the nut WELDED to the inside of the valve cover?...Thanks!,...Mark

Mike .. I think this is the time to drive it gently .. progressively .. not "hard." There are a lot of things that I think you need to learn so that you don't take a very expensive engine and turn it into a very expensive boat anchor. After it is completely sorted should you turn up the volume. You can't complain about the cost and then adopt a "no taking it easy" policy.

quote:

Originally posted by mike the snake:
These are special tall Yates heads. They have completely different castings to accept the Jesel Rockers shafts.
It's a completelt different setup than what Ford used. More like stuff used in Nascar and Sprint car racing.
I assume this was maybe a hot setup for sprint cars back in the day.

There's like 6 or 8 allen head screws than go around the outside of each valve cover, along with those two bolts that go completely down into the head, and help hold the valve cover in place.

Again though, these are (C3L I think) tall Yates heads. Trick stuff for the day I assume.

I read they have figure-8 shaped beryllium copper valve seats. Heads like these were sold as "racing heads" with small ports, designed to then be further CNC'd to whatever specs that car/class/race required.

I know they are badass. I hope to keep them all together so next year I can go through the motor properly and have it running at 100%.

Now is the time though to drive the thing hard! It's already got it's first scratch, not so worried about hurting it, so the fun factor is a bit higher now after I get the car done. No taking it easy on Snow White.

I'm gonna do all that stuff the sweet Prince did to her after the movie ended and things went XXX.

quote:

Originally posted by 1Rocketship:
Hello Mike; I can't help with your question, but I have a question.

In your picture a bolt is running through your valve cover.

My question is...Is the bolt just threaded into the valve cover?...or is there a nut Inside the valve cover & if so...is the nut WELDED to the inside of the valve cover?...Thanks!,...Mark

Being that BOTH the intake & exhaust seats are beryllium, it would seem that the engine is equipped with all titanium valves!
Following in that vein of logic it would also seem that your engine has titanium valve locks & retainers...NICE!!!...Mark

quote:

Originally posted by mike the snake:

I'm hoping maybe someone recognizes this injection system, and maybe know what or where I can find replacement injectors. If I take the car to my tuner, after seeing plug #1 I'm almost expecting something is up with that hole, but I'd like to know what injectors to buy, or if there's anything anyone can tell me about this injection system?

From what can be seen in your photo, which is not much, they look like Bosch injectors. But some Delco-Remy look similar.

The part number on them will tell you what they are and what size.

But at this stage unless your fuel system has no filters i would not imagine there would be anything wrong with the injectors.

Sort out your air cleaner issues first. Then look at the quality of spark going to each cylinder.

Check out the dizzy cap and plug wires.

Run with your new plugs and see how they look.

Only after all other checks are done look at the engine management tune and individual injectors. Get your tune up man to do this.

It is not unheard of to have a bad injector but it is rare, check every thing else first.

Hi!
It could be TWM products, an early version.

Important!

You have to balance the throttle bodies so that the eight throttle open the same. You also need an AFR/lambda (in each) headers and a software to your EFI. But start balance them out. Good to here about your progress. If this would happend during Christmas/new year I would probably visit you, I have friends in Glen Ellen...
Good Luck!
SF

They’re TWM (now Borla) IDA throttle bodies. Probably 48mm or 50mm bore. On the injectors, hard to say wrt brand but they’re the typical Bosch style injectors. I wouldn’t start replacing injectors as they should be a flowed and matched set. There are many things more likely to be causing cylinder-cylinder AFR differences but if after addressing those, any injectors are still suspect, I’d still say swap cylinders with the injector first before replacing. They can be inexpensively cleaned, checked for flow, and impedance by any injector service shop which there are many……much less expensive than replacement of one or all.

Your set up is most likely an early Pantera Performance System because it has outboard fuel rails and moreover, the air cleaner is a dead giveaway. Most IR EFI is speed density or N-Alpha (some say Alpha-N) control scheme. If the former, it will have a small vacuum plenum with a Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor attached. I’d also need to see a picture of the linkage as this can be the source of many such problems. You should buy or borrow a synchrometer (commonly used to tune Weber carbs) to check the flow balance cylinder to cylinder first of all, because if it’s mechanically not adjusted to for balanced flow, you won’t (practically) be able to tune away that condition.

Does it have a large vacuum tap on one runner for the brake servo? Many of the early PPC systems did and if so, this can wreak havoc with pressure sensor and tunes.

I believe it was suggested in one of your earlier threads but if you haven’t already you should download and save your BIN file (tune). This a priority 1 action. Also go to Haltec and download the manual for your system, read and compare the available features to what is active in your program. The suggestion not to fiddle with the tune program is sage advice. I would also advise you do all the above before you consider turning it over to anyone to modify the program and state of tune. If they have no experience with IR EFI on a sbf there will be a fair investment of time ($).

There could be/will be other sensors on your system, TPS, tach (maybe crank trigger), IAT, CLT, Lambda/O2, other safety cut offs……just depends on how much effort was put into enrichment schemes for warm up, and load sensing.
Your ECU may also be capable of logging data from all these sensors. IR EFI tuning is not a trivial matter and there are many things that interplay and no two engines behave completely the same. Kirby’s program has made the rounds but he would tell you the same thing.

Best,
Kelly

I would suspect your distributor is not installed correctly and this is a timing issue. This is an EFI car and the distributor should be locked out (no vacuum or mechanical advance). Also, it should have been phased when installed, not just dropped in at TDC. Since the Halteck ECU is controlling the timing you need to identify which ECU you have. Then take the time to READ the installation and setup instructions to make sure the distributor is set correctly.

TWM I believe. Injectors have identification on them.

Why are you talking about tearing this thing apart? You had a distributor drive pin break. It's corrected now.

Start it up and drive it. Your paranoia is making this thing drag out needlessly. The problem I think may be that an MD is prescribing medications. Screw that. Find a Pusher.


Titanium valves on a street car are not a good idea. The valve stems will quickly wear against the valve guides. No one in their right mind would build them into a street car.

The better ones have their stems teflon coated. They last somewhat longer but you will have remnants of teflon in the engine.

All that engine needs is a high quality valve. Many are hardened stainless steel alloys these days. Faria once was THE valve to have but they no longer make their own.
They repackage from various international contractors who build the valves to manufacturer spec.

Doesn't matter.


As I said, those air cleaners were made to a K&N filter that existed. No longer exists? Typical of K&N.

You want a "molded air filter". The base of it needs to have the shape of your air cleaner.

I doubt you can mold your own sufficiently to rigidly follow the shape?
IF you are going to try to use an existing round filter than you are going to HAVE to drill the base of the air cleaner and use sheet metal screws through them and into the molded base of the air cleaner to hold it to shape.

Even so, you are rapidly approaching a solution that is not going to allow you easy access to the TB's. There is not much room left for you under the roof to get these air cleans on and off. EVERYTHING that you do with the top of the engine HAS to be able to "kick down", i.e., easily disassemble. piece by piece.

A much simpler solution at the moment is just to take them off and run the car that way until you have the engine tuned.

Then deal with the air cleaners. You have too many parameters to deal with at one time right now.



You call this vehicle Snow White. I call IT Froggie. Froggie isn't going to pluck his magic twanger and disappear because the throttle bodies are naked even though he does fit the description of a sadistic pervert?


Engine has a mis? Comeon? My 28 year old son is this way. He is the CPU EFI king. He never heard a long duration, "moderate" overlap solid lifter cam run...until he heard mine(s). Thinks I have an EXHAUST leak because of the 180 headers and straight through mufflers?

Because I have 13" at idle, he thinks there is a vacuum leak? I'll show him 13", I have that all the time...that's the way the engine idles with that type of a cam. PERIOD. "O'Lord...they have eyes yet they do not see!" Amazing.


I'll say it again, there are many people who simply do not understand the nature of this kind of an engine. For those, try a Prius, or a Previous, a Vitara or is that a Viagara? Does this sound like you? I wonder? Gee-zus!



Oh, and to add to what Al just said, this CPU sounds suspiciously like an earlier Haltec that does not control the ignition advance. On that system, the distributor is mechanical and independent.
Get the number off of it and go to their website. The manual for it should be there and downloadable.

Thanks for the tips guys.

First off, I guess I'm sounding like I'm anxious to fix a thousand things all at once that I don't know anything about.

Believe me, I'm just happy to have the engine running again.

I'm now in the "ask questions and learn about my car" stage.

I am in no way going to touch anything. The car runs well, I'm going to drive it and enjoy it.

I also overstated my intentions to "drive her hard" I'm just excited, just went through a month and a half of hell, and I do plan on having a little fun with her.

I have one of those flow meters so I can check the flow at idle.

I DO have a large vacum line coming off one runner (for the brakes I suppose).

Looking at things, I suspect my Haltech only controls the injection, not ignition.

Sorry if I came off sounding like I'm wanting to fix a thousand things at once. The car is new to me, I have a total of a couple hours on it, so for a good while I'm just going to be in "drive it, observe, and learn about my car" mode.

I thank you guys for the advice.

I'm a decent mechanic, and know enough to get myself into trouble sometimes, but I do also have good sense, so please don't be mistaken, Snow White is in good hands, and will be properly cared for. What I can't do, or don't know about, I will seek advice from people who know the information I seek.

I'll tone down the "I'm gonna punish her" comments if we can keep the name Snow White, I'm not too partial to "Froggie".

My first intentions are to fix the obvious things that aren't right, like the air cleaners.

I believe if the element I have coming fits the air cleaner system I have, I'll be able to make the other side fit perfectly and the entire air cleaner system should come off and on as designed.

If the new element doesn't fit, then I have a 1.5" space I need to fix on each side of my elements. This I can easily fix by "sewing" together the elements with thin wire and a spacer of the correct material.

I'd be interested in hearing about what CPU is in the car?
I do know that several people I know of that were using various Haltec's went to the Fast CPU's. Not necessarily on Panteras.

They told me that they did find them easier to tune.

That isn't a recommendation on my part,i.e., to change anything, just expressed curiosity.
I try to keep learning on these things.

I am not sure why a CPU that controlled both ignition and fuel would have any need for a distributor that has either an mechanical advance or a vacuum advance? I don't know how that would work?



I've often said that I want to go digital on the induction (EFI) rather than analog (Webers) but the combination of enthusiasm and finance hasn't yet matched up.

Plus for me it's just the thing of a new challenge and I have an operating system now. "If it isn't broken, don't fix it" should prevail?



I don't have time for drugs. I just understand why the scenario exists. I'm not sympathetic to either prescribed or self-prescribed. It's simply a matter of good choices and bad ones in life.



Snow White has no personality nor human characteristics other than those you give IT.

A Pantera in particular can have too much versatility and sometimes that's what causes issues that didn't exist with it before.

I know about that. I live it too.

You're almost done. Keep it going.

I'm spending today putting the car back together, after running it once or twice more on the jacks to double check for leaks.

Does anyone know where I can find either the expansion tank cap, or the seal for the cap?

We pulled mine off and it looks terrible, needs replacing.

We put a piece of plastic between the decaying seal and cap so it would stop dropping more pieces of decayed seal into the tank.

quote:

Originally posted by mike the snake:
I'm spending today putting the car back together, after running it once or twice more on the jacks to double check for leaks.

Does anyone know where I can find either the expansion tank cap, or the seal for the cap?

We pulled mine off and it looks terrible, needs replacing.

We put a piece of plastic between the decaying seal and cap so it would stop dropping more pieces of decayed seal into the tank.

NAPA. It's just a 16 psi cap. MotoRad T-16. Just clean the sealing surfaces of the tank. Make sure it mates correctly at the top and bottom and you're done.

I would pressure test the new cap and the system first, just to make sure the entire thing is ok.

Pressure testing the system at this point will also help you pump the air out of the system and top it off.

This all works for me. It should work for you too.

No need to call NASA on this one...unless you want to add more drama?

quote:

Does anyone know where I can find either the expansion tank cap, or the seal for the cap?

Depends on whether your bottles/tanks have US necks or the Euro necks. Might give Roger a call and ask him since he probably changed the bottles at some point. Or, just take your cap down to the local O'Reilly Auto Parts store and compare it to other caps. You may find a part number on it that will allow you to determine what it's from.

Roger texted me a while back, right after I talked with him about the metal bits, and that was also when he told me "oh yeah, I had a rocker failure a while back. I thought I got all the pieces out, but I guess I missed some apparently, sorry"

A few minutes later, I got a text saying he was having problems with his house, and wouldn't be available to help me any more.

Again, I'm refraining from typing what I'd like to type. I bought the car AS IS, and I have no recourse, so it's all on me.

It would have been nice to know more about the engine though. I did ask him, looking at him squarely in the eye, and asked "Is there anything I need to know about this engine? Has it had any issues?" and he said "no, it's been perfect, low miles, should last you a long time with proper maintenence, have fun"

SO, needless to say, I am not looking towards Roger as a resource any more. He's told me he won't be available to help me anyways, and I don't want to start anything negative.

I'm happy I have the car running again. It seems to be running as it did when I bought it, so I'm happy again, just 1.5 months, a broken chest plate, and a couple extra grand short.

This forum, and the people on this forum have helped me through this crisis. Thanks to everyone for their help.

You guys are all I need to keep Snow White running well.

Just out of curiosity, can you post a picture of the fuel injection ECU? Should be either a red box or a silver box depending on the era of Haltech. Both are easily accessed with a laptop and could tell you much about how the current setup is configured.

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
Just out of curiosity, can you post a picture of the fuel injection ECU? Should be either a red box or a silver box depending on the era of Haltech. Both are easily accessed with a laptop and could tell you much about how the current setup is configured.

My guess is that it is a black box and a F9 Haltech
SF

Ding Ding Ding! We have a winner!

Black F9.

I took the car for the first drive yesterday, it's back running as it was before the whole debacle.

Chuck mentioned it sounded like it has a miss at idle.

Checking with my temp sensor, I was getting some hot, and some cold readings where the header bolts to the head.

When on the road, and especially when accelerating, the car does not feel like it has a miss of any kind, just smooth, huge, power.

I'm not trying to fix a thousand things at once, (it only needed 500 to start with) but I do want to have the injection looked at.

The tune does NOT necessarily need to be changed, the car runs sweet.

I do want to hunt down the off-sounding idle (which may just be the injection lke Roger said) and also find out why the #1 plug was so black and oily.

The car is new to me, so I'm exploring the things I'm finding out about it.

I have no intentions of just taking this, or that, apart, just to see what's inside, or think i'm going to fix some phantom problem that doesn't exist, but I do want to have everything on it checked out, especially since the engine didn't turn out to be even close to what I was told it was.

quote:

Originally posted by SF:

quote:

Originally posted by PanteraTurbo:
Just out of curiosity, can you post a picture of the fuel injection ECU? Should be either a red box or a silver box depending on the era of Haltech. Both are easily accessed with a laptop and could tell you much about how the current setup is configured.

My guess is that it is a black box and a F9 Haltech
SF

Those plugs might just be oily because you were turning the engine over without combustion.

Are you running a PCV system? You might want to take a quick look at that. See if there is excessive oil build up in the lines. (indication of "excessive" engine cranking)

There was an indication Roger was in the engine a lot with spark plugs. It may have been something he was looking at also?(three different brands of spark plugs)

Sometimes something like the oil on the plugs, a few plugs or one plug are false phantoms that you are chasing. Get the car to where you can take it for a 25 mile cruise out and back. 100 miles would be better.

Let it cool off, then look at the plugs again. See what they look like.



Also, aluminum heads don't like having their plugs changed when they are hot. They tend to strip out spark plug threads OUT OF THE HEADS.

The "Ford" race heads (of which these are) are better but I still use a little anti-seize on the threads.

Sometimes that is not easy to do since there will be some black carbon on the plug threads and you can only put enough anti-seize on the plugs to lube them a little without the stuff getting all over everything and you certainly don't want it getting into the combustion chambers.

If someone else has a better way to coat the threads of the plugs, I'd be interested in hearing their methods.


As far as the rocker arm failing, Roger's reaction is not an unusual one or particularly deceptive on his part. When you deal with an engine of this nature, you become a bit cavalier on dealing with VERY minor things like a failed rocker arm.

Failed Jessels are very common. For what they cost they should be bullet proof in my view. That was the reason they were put in their to begin with.

Take Jessel off of your Christmas Card List, not Roger.

This new set of plugs I installed dry, no anti-seize. I was very careful to torque them with enough force to hold them in, but I didn't overtighten anything.

Every plug slipped in and threaded in perfectly with just the tippy tips of my fat fingers, so I hope I'm OK in not using antiseize

quote:

Originally posted by mike the snake:
This new set of plugs I installed dry, no anti-seize. I was very careful to torque them with enough force to hold them in, but I didn't overtighten anything.

Every plug slipped in and threaded in perfectly with just the tippy tips of my fat fingers, so I hope I'm OK in not using antiseize

Every time Ford redid that series of heads they made some kind of a small improvement.

My heads are an early set of A3 heads and even use a different spark plug type.

Using anit-seeze on plugs is a real PITA. If you can get along with out it, that's to your advantage.

Anything that seems to get onto the threads including engine oil can act as a "crazy glue" because of the heat.

Irregardless, the heads still prefer to be cold in order to release the plugs easily.

Wow, an F9. I havent seen one of those in ages. It will be difficult to get a computer that software will run on. It will require MS-DOS. Unless you find a tuner experienced with that specific system you are likely to hear some griping about tuning it. EFI systems have advanced drastically over even the last ten years much less the 13 or so that this ecu was made. It will do the job but I dont know if I would ever expect absolute perfection. I do hope you can find someone that can make heads or tails of whats going on.

quote:

Originally posted by mike the snake:
This new set of plugs I installed dry, no anti-seize. I was very careful to torque them with enough force to hold them in, but I didn't overtighten anything.

Every plug slipped in and threaded in perfectly with just the tippy tips of my fat fingers, so I hope I'm OK in not using antiseize

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/...ppages/antiseize.php

This is the anti-seize you want to use. Never use the thick stuff because it will eventually build up in the treads.

Yes, use antiseize on spark plug threads.

A stripped spark plug thread in your cylinder head will ruin your day....


.

I agree completely.

These plugs all came out, and the new ones went in, with THE smoothest feeling, unless the next time I remove the plugs and they feel different, or come off differently, I'm going to leave them as-is.

It did not appear the old plugs had antiseize on them either.

We will see, I'll act accordingly when the plugs come out next time.

I took the car out for it's first "aggressive" drive. Nothing anyone I know would really call aggressive, but I did rev it up a bit, I wanted to check the oil pressure at higher rpm's, it stays around 60-70- above 2000-3000, I never held the rpm's higher than that long enough to read the gauge.

I did rev it to 4 or 5000 once or twice, shifting from 1st to 2nd.

The idle is funky, but it doesn't run like it has a miss, it just kind of sounds like it at idle.

No matter, that's how it ran when I bought it, and when Roger gave me the test drive, he didn't baby it at all, and it straight hauled ass then. Still does now!

quote:

Originally posted by Aus Ford:
Yes, use antiseize on spark plug threads.

A stripped spark plug thread in your cylinder head will ruin your day....


.

quote:

The idle is funky, but it doesn't run like it has a miss, it just kind of sounds like it at idle.

That could be a product of the cam in your engine.

As Bosswrench pointed out, your engine used to shake like a wet dog at idle, until Roger put the Quella EFI on it.
http://pantera.infopop.cc/eve/...201075456#4201075456

I think it's the injection (hopefully) because above idle it runs smooth and sounds perfect with big power.

Idle is kind of a tame tick-over, and just a hair above idle induces a minor shake like it does have a miss, but again, once beyond that throttle-wise it runs smooth and sounds excellent.

My intention is to run it for now, but I think there's some fine tuning that can happen.

Engine seems happier revved up above 3000 for sure. Basically, if I drive it like a kid with a new hot rod, it runs and sounds great.

Why not post a sound bite of the engine idling and running? Many here are capable of identifying what you are hearing.

I'll see if I can get a friend to help me post a vid.

Unforutnately I don't know how to post vids, just something I never learned.

The idle may be due to ignition timing as well. Sometimes with ITB's that have no idle control provisions we have to use the ignition timing to control the idle. Sometimes this can cause fairly low timing numbers at idle when hot as the ECU is pulling timing to reduce idle speed.

Disregard the last comment. The F9 is a fuel only controller.

Stickt throttle is due to either needing a new or lubed cable, or something within the linkage as the engine heats up.

There's a bridge across the two banks of the injector banks (these are Tall Yates Heads) that I assume keep them from moving when the engine heats up.

There's a custom center galley cover because each injector bank is separate, they're not joined into a manifold.

I put some more miles on the car today, it runs sweet. Except for having to blip the gas every once in a while to get the idle down, it runs great.

I have yet to really go full throttle, the motor is kinda scary powerful, so I want to take things in stages. So far it's been a little bit of freeway and mostly in traffic, but the car runs well, so I'm not touching anything for a while.

I'm just going to drive it, put a hundred or so miles on her and then check the plugs.

#1 was black and caked moreso than any of the others, so I suspect a low hole on #1, just a gut feeling.

It could also be the way the old air cleaners were fitted. For me it's drive it, enjoy it, and read the plugs in about 50 miles.

My guess is it's hard to get all 8 butterfly valves to open exactly, so my idle, and Juuust off idle "miss" i'm feeling, may be just due to that, because once above idle everything runs smoothly and runs sweet.

If you are having a potential sticking throttle situation I'd be inclined to fix that ASAP. It might decide to stick at some other position than idle. Just a thought.

Thank for the tip lol.

Yeah, it's not really "hanging up, as in it's not dropping immediately to full idle rpm's. The idle hangs a few hundred rpm's high sometimes and needs a throttle blip to get it to drop fully down to idle rpm's.

I'd feel if the cable were really "hanging up", and I suspect either replacing it, or lubing it should help (if that's what's causing the occasional high idle.

Throttle cable is on my list of things to check, replace, or lube.

It's fine as it is now though.

I'll be consistently working on this car forever I expect.

IMHO the cable shouldn't 'need lube'

lube attracts & holds dirt / debris, further aggravating the issue

the cable should operate smoothly clean & dry otherwise it's shot

disconnect both ends & exercise it, see how it feels

check for alignment / angle issues at both ends, or possible routing change over/under something for smooth operation

"I'll be consistently working on this car forever I expect"

probably, it is an old car that's been messed with some

I agree, the nylon liner should be enough for smooth operation.

The cable routing presently I think can be improved a little (it doesn't make a smooth gradual bend) and when I address it I'll probably replace it at the same time.

It's not an issue though, it's not "hanging up", in fact I think the idle staying a couple hundred rpm high might be more linkage and heat related. The split manifold coupled with aluminum heads (to me) means a lot of movement between cold and hot.

Again, it's not an issue, just something i'll need to look at and fine tune out.

quote:

Originally posted by 4V & Proud:
IMHO the cable shouldn't 'need lube'

lube attracts & holds dirt / debris, further aggravating the issue

the cable should operate smoothly clean & dry otherwise it's shot

disconnect both ends & exercise it, see how it feels

check for alignment / angle issues at both ends, or possible routing change over/under something for smooth operation

"I'll be consistently working on this car forever I expect"

probably, it is an old car that's been messed with some