Hydraulic roller lifter issue?

I think you are mixing the cams.

The second crower cam is a 246/250;

your comp is a 248/248

the comp has a required CR of 10:1 vs 10,25:1 for the crower, so not a big difference.

The real big difference betwenn those 2 cams is the lift. The Comp has significant more lift which means its lobes are way more aggressive.

If that is what you like, go for it.

I think the tamer one, I suggested will live longer and will have more torque in the range of 2500 to 4500 which should be beneficial on the street.

And my point is, that a single pattern cam doesn't make sense in a 4v stock headed Cleveland.

@GeorgS posted:

I think you are mixing the cams.

The second crower cam is a 246/250;

your comp is a 248/248

the comp has a required CR of 10:1 vs 10,25:1 for the crower, so not a big difference.

The real big difference betwenn those 2 cams is the lift. The Comp has significant more lift which means its lobes are way more aggressive.

If that is what you like, go for it.

I think the tamer one, I suggested will live longer and will have more torque in the range of 2500 to 4500 which should be beneficial on the street.

And my point is, that a single pattern cam doesn't make sense in a 4v stock headed Cleveland.

That's why the only sure method is to try them both and pick the one that you think is best for you.

I've been doing this for over 50 years. One thing that I know for sure is that almost never will two people agree on which is the best cam.

It has a lot to do with what you expect from it and the reality of how you are going to live with it.

One curiosity that I did notice is that if you work with Ford eninges, there are several cams that have the same timing and lift events for both the Cleveland and the 427's.

Often a 113° is recommended for the 427 for the same reason. The exhaust restriction in the head.

It is kind of hard to do an "Engine Masters" comparison test by yourself for sure, but in the end result it will often just show something like a 10 or 15hp difference so particularly in a street car where ultimate hp is insignificant since you are just competing with yourself.

The same engine in a Mustang v Pantera is going to be just a little different because of the exhaust systems. If you are going to dyno, then you need to dyno through the exhaust that you intend to use on the car.

It should also be mentioned that in the case of the Pantera, the gearing in the ZF makes it more important where the torque curve comes on and how much power you are going to have in 5th.

You need the Drag Race dyno to create that kind of a comparison test. Let's call in NASA?

Even then, don't be surprised if you start modifying the exhaust? An example here would be the ability to use a 180° system in the Pantera, or even just changing the size of the header primary tubes on a "stock" Pantera or a GTS header not to mention the mufflers?

I think ultimately that yes, one of those cams pointed out here will be the selection. I'd rather have the "owner" decide rather then me. I don't want to be blamed for his disappointment. It really isn't as simple as it seems to be on the surface .

I DO NOT profess to be THE expert. Not at all. Just sharing my experiences which I do admit are limited. It isn't "Everything Everywhere all at once" but that is what often is being suggested. That is just fiction.

I have a static compression ratio of 10.6/1 and as we have 98 octane in France (I don't remember the correspondence with the index in the US, but I know that George made a correspondence table in one of his posts) I have no problem.

You can run the cams at lower CR then what the manufacturer says.

Current 93 in the US is what we used to call 102.

Current SUNOCO leaded racing gas was 103 in the pumps and was called 260 then. It was and still is purple and the fumes will knock you out with just a sniff.

Now it is referred to at the track as 106 not to be confuse with the 115 leaded racing gas that the supercharged cars use at the track.

All very confusing.

It is a shell game of sorts. It keeps moving the ball around enough to confuse everyone and thus remove the references to the older systems and remove the criticisms.

I don't know how the European rating systems compare now.

Part of what the timing of the camshaft does is reduce the cylinder pressures so not to increase the pressure to the point that it ignites the fuel without spark. Longer duration camshafts do that by design.

They make the engine less sensitive to dieseling by letting the excessive cylinder pressure escape through the exhausts.

Sometimes this timing effect is called "bleeding off compression".

Rene,

My advise to you is to get a custom made cam to suit e your particular application. Call or email Cam Motion in Baton Rouge Louisiana, tell them what you have, what you want and they will make a cam for you that you can’t go wrong. I had my hydraulic roller cam made by them many years ago, never had any issues with Morel roller lifters, 6.15”/6.20” valve lift, Pacalloy beehive valve springs, titaniun retainers, Lightweight Special Alloy Ferrea Valves, etc. Running 8 individual throttle bodies EFI controlled by FAST ECU. 620hp at 6200 rpm at 31degrees total timing. Idles at 850 rpm very smooth. CAM MOTION is one of the best cam company in the US in MHO! Furthermore, I would recommend  no other than Penngrade 1 (formerly Brad Penn) 20W-50 synthetic blend motor oil. Never, Never use lightweight fully synthetic motor oil with roller camshafts, especially if you experience fuel dilution in the oil!
Best

L

Rene,

My engine is  an all aluminum Fontana engine, 10.5 to 1.0 static compression ratio, runs on Shell 91 octane fuel with no issues whatsoever. This is the oil that I use

Here is the answer from Cam Motion whom I had provided all the detailed characteristics of my engine. It is quite close to what I had, but even more powerful:

Unfortunately at this time we do not have a camshaft core that will accommodate these specs. I can share with you what I would recommend for your application.

I use the same oil (Penngrade) as Hightech, based on the recommendation (requirement?) of my engine builder…

Rocky

And if the cam company doesn't ask, be sure to tell them where you live. My house and home driving is at 5400 ft altitude in NV and has different needs than someone living at sea level.