Hydraulic roller lifter issue?

No - I didn’t mean to do the lifter bore bushings in the car.  We did it after we pulled the engine and had the block on the drill press.

Fixturing and alignment of the block was still a bit of a set up challenge, even with the block out of the car.

I doubt if you could do lifter bore bushings in the car, you need a lot of room for the drill, the U-joint and the reamer.  And then driving the bushings  in would be another challenge.

I thought I had read that Rene had already done the lifter bore mod.

I was only saying that that’s the operation that made me think about the location of the oil gallery.

Rocky

The oil drain holes are in the middle of the block.

Yes, I have already installed the bronze liners for the tappets.
I know I could do the repair with the engine in the car, but I will save little time and I risk doing the job badly. In addition, if I have to drill holes or even if I only have to tap them, I will make cast iron debris that I will have difficulty removing, so I decided to pull the engine out of the car and disassemble it, I will be able to work comfortably and clean it meticulously. I may lose a day or two but I am not short of time.

That will be the best way.

@rocky posted:

No - I didn’t mean to do the lifter bore bushings in the car.  We did it after we pulled the engine and had the block on the drill press.

Fixturing and alignment of the block was still a bit of a set up challenge, even with the block out of the car.

I doubt if you could do lifter bore bushings in the car, you need a lot of room for the drill, the U-joint and the reamer.  And then driving the bushings  in would be another challenge.

I thought I had read that Rene had already done the lifter bore mod.

I was only saying that that’s the operation that made me think about the location of the oil gallery.

Rocky

Do you remember the diameter of the oil passage hole you drilled in the liners?

I used .060"

I have continued to inquire about this system and it appears that the cam lift would be limited to about 0.32", beyond which the lifter hits and lifts the dog bone.
I asked Ford Performance, Summit and Schneider cams about this and am awaiting their response. Do you know anything about this limit?

I can't answer that. I don't have issues with flat lifter cams.

You need to accept that the hydraulic lifter cam for performance applications is an aftermarket modification of a modification and there are going to be unexpected bumps in the road.

I feel your pain but to me this is self flagellation?

Depending on your pocketbooks, and the amount of self-flagellation you want to do….  (😎)…

I’m sure you have seen the Jesel keyway lifters…. I haven’t researched them, but they sure don’t seem like they would have a short lift limit.

But that would probably require removal of your existing lifter bore bushings.

Anyway – good luck on the path forward.

Rocky

PS. That .032” lift limit doesn’t sound right, because no one would use them if that was the case on most engines.  Is this just a Cleveland issue?

0.32'' at the cam produces 0.55'' at the valve, that's already good and many are satisfied with that.

Thanks, I didn’t work out the numbers….

Looking at my cam card, I have a .353” lift…

I thought you were talking the valve opening.

Thanks for the clarification.