ignition wires with 180° headers / fuel regulator

I use straight ends. How are you routing the wires?

Hi Husker,
Seems that the wires are too close the pipes !
Do you have any pictures ?
Kind regards
Philippe

Consider using some heat sleeving on the wires, there's really good stuff on the market.

Julian

Excellent point Joules. Headers and wiring by Ron McCall.

#2

I ran my wires under the headers. Keeps them well out of the way and out of sight. You will need a cut to fit type of kit to accomplish this.

thanks to all.

What about pressure regulator ? I would prefer a 2 way (no return) low pressure regulator ...
Prices start from $30 to $200 ...

Any good advice, a pressure gauge would be nice onto
Regards
Philippe

For quad Weber carbs and a stock mechanical fuel pump, a 7 psi pressure regulator is not really necessary. For EFI at 45-65 psi, a regulator- with a return- is necessary for best results. If you decide to use a regulator, flow rate is as important as the output pressure; cheap regulators typically don't flow enough fuel and the system goes lean.

Hi Bosswrench, I have bought an Aeromotive high quality fuel pump which needs a regulator ....

here's what I found ...

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/nex-15952

My A3 heads are a little different then the iron heads but I have a set of "Ford Motorsport" 7mm silicone with 90 degree ends that fit the best with those headers.

So considering that set is about 30 years old, I'm not sure where you would find them.

These are the bright blue coverings. The heat doesn't seem to bother the silicone wires at all.

Doug do you have a pic?

A pic of them installed or a pic of the wires uninstalled? Not anything to see installed. They are covered by the headers.

Hi gentlemen,

Any good fuel filter advice please, shall I really have to install a 100microns then a 10microns too ?
Regards
Philippe

The 100 micron filter is to protect the pump without impeding suction and goes between tank and pump. A 10 micron filter goes between the pump and carb. Some carbs have filters installed by the manufacturer inside the inlet.

Julian

quote:

Originally posted by "72 GTS:
Hi gentlemen,

Any good fuel filter advice please, shall I really have to install a 100microns then a 10microns too ?
Regards
Philippe

Use the Fram HPG-1 canister or the Summit Racing version (which is cheaper).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fram-H...AOSwHPlWf3nq&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit...047675.c100005.m1851

I use the custom set of"Taylor 409's", their 10mm silicone and have a 90* boot. On the filter I use a in line 100 micron Trick Flow Summit number Specialties TFS-23004 - Trick Flow® TFX™ Inline Fuel Filters their is no mounting required, this filter on my car is just ahead of my electric fuel pump and a second after the pump. both filters are relatively easy to get to and I clean the primary one at each oil change.

I've been using the Ford Motorsport/Racing wires for thirty years or so. They don't wear out. You
replace them because you get tired of looking at them.

This is the current set. 9mm, 90 ends, silicone. They can go right on the headers. The heat doesn't matter.

These are black, say Ford Racing on them.

The 90 degree ends tuck right into the heads.

I will say though that I think the 7 or 8mm blue silicone wires fit easier because they are thinner and bend better.

Those are still here in the box.

Box

thanks to all of you

Hi gentlemen,
I've almost placed all the parts I need in the "Summit" shoppin cart , but what about sealing the fuel fittings (3/8 threated fitting to pump for example) ?
Regards
Philippe

I always use teflon tape.

Husker thank you,
Are those universal fittings conical ? will try this product https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ptx-59235

because they say the Teflon tape isn't compatible with fuel (?).
Philippe

On a pipe thread fitting, there is a "pipe dope" that is gasoline compatible.

It's on "the shelf"next to the regular stuff.

You do not use sealer on a flared seat fitting. The flare is what seals it.

In many cases I converted to a tubing cap, a ferrel and a flared tube. This is what they look like.



You can do the same thing with the fuel pumps. These are just plumbing threads on one side to JIC flares on the other.

I find them easier to deal with.

These tubes are all cap, ferrel and flared seat.



You CAN use teflon tape on the plumbing threads but the "pipe dope" also will lubricate the thread as you assemble it. It will help on your mating of "dis-similar" metals.

The internal threads on the mechanical fuel pump are very easy to strip out and the casting they are in will crack if you tighten them too much...which isn't much torque at all.

Too much teflon tape will over stress that casting.