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Depends on how much work you want to do. These I believe use the existing holes from L bumper.

Amerisport split bumpers.


Otherwise there are the original bumperettes which come in 2 styles, rounded or squared ends. They require body work to fill the holes left behind when the L bumper is removed however. There is a company that manufactures them in stainless but I've heard there may be fitment issues.

Ah. Then you're set. Originals are a bit pricey and I've seen fewer and fewer for sale. PIM has them in carbon fiber. Pantera Parts Connection has them in fiberglass. He also lists some originals but I don't know if they're actually available. The aftermarket metal ones come in SS, painted black or raw but they're pricey, $1200 or so. And I've read they require manual fitment to get them right.

I refer to that style of front bumper as the eyebrow style. They were installed on Panteras  sold in Europe but were meant to incorporate the turn signal pods on the rubber bumper cars.

it appears you have removed your front light pods along with filling the bumper holes. What are your plans to incorporate driving and signal lights ?

The impact bumper was not required in Europe but they didn’t want to have to fuss with two different stampings  for the front valance. Thus  the eyebrow bumpers mounted above the light pods  

I am not as familiar with the rear bumpers but I think they were  also the European approach for the L model cars. I’m quite sure more than one vendor offers these both  in fiberglass, I think finding them in metal is difficult.


Thanks everyone for the info and links.

I'm assuming the small bumpers are more decorative than anything else. This may be a dumb question but has anyone who's car is equipped with the small steel bumpers been hit lightly? Do they offer any protection to the body or does the body just get pushed in beneath the bumper? Assuming black bumpers, might fiberglass bumpers be better at absorbing a light hit, sort of being sacrificial being easy to repair and repaint?

I'm probable over thinking it but that's were I am with my project.

Is there any advantage to steel over fiberglass?

larryw and Joep, Any photos will be much appreciated. Thanks!


"it appears you have removed your front light pods along with filling the bumper holes. What are your plans to incorporate driving and signal lights ?"

They were removed before I got the car. Are the pods factory welded on or screwed on? Were all US cars fitted with the pods? Sorry for all the questions. This is my first involvement with a Pantera. What learning curve, especially since I bought the car completely disassembled.

Not sure about the driving and signal lights yet. I need to sort out these details before the car gets painted. Headlights are stock with a quad bulb conversion.




The early cars with the chrome bumpers mounted the front parking/signal lights into the chrome bumper housing.

when US DOT mandated the impact rubber bumper, the front valance stampings were modified to incorporate separate light pods which were welded into the structure. The actual light assemblies were the same for the chrome bumper and light pods.

most US Panteras that swap back to EYEBROW chrome bumpers just retain the pods for the signal lights.

if the original chrome bumpers are selected then the pods would be removed and filled as in your current car

I have for sale the used pods in the photo. They were removed from a front valance, being cut off at their meeting point and I believe could successfully be grafted back onto your valance.

It is possible the vendors have new old stock light pods, also.

or you can devise an alternate approach for your signal/running lights.



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Last edited by lf-tp2511

The speakers are AMT line arrays with separate dipole woofers. We design and build the AMT drivers in-house.

The AMT arrays cover the frequency range from 120 Hz to 24 KHz which is unique to my design. The dipole woofers (subs) cover the range from 25 Hz to 120 Hz. It's an active system using digital crossovers and comes with advanced room correction. Our AMT arrays are so efficient that they can be powered by low power SET tube amps having only 1.5 watts but can handle 120 watts and can reproduce SPLs over 120 dB.

Here is a pic of a Pantera with body colored bumpers. They aren't the Amerisport bumpers but it will give you an idea how they might look painted the same color as the car. I'm sure these are custom, one-off, bumpers.


The Amerisport bumpers were designed to cover up the holes left by L bumpers, without any bodywork or paint.   


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I am pretty sure the Feature member car of Michel Savard's at the top of our forums page is wearing Amerisport Bumpers painted body color on his 74.  I know there are more pictures of cars done that way on here, but I have not had any luck finding the appropriate thread for you.

As many have said the red 5s pictured bumpers are not proper in any way. To me they look homemade.

Here is one thread.  There is a black car with them and Ed Pike's red car with them painted body color part way down the discussion.

In this thread toward the bottom it show's George's car and another members side by side for a comparison of Amerisport vs Early Euro style.

Personally, I like Kirk's bumpers (in black or dark colors) for not modifying body work.  With your body work already modified it may be just as easy to continue the 71 small bumper process with turn signals integrated in the bumpers.  My favourite are likely the Euro late style with body integrated turn signals and separate bumpers.

Good luck.

I think the body front section is in stock shape except for all holes being filled and turn signal pods removed (by previous owner). The right side front corner was in great original shape and the left front corner needed some very light repair. We did tweak the valance ends a little.

Seems to be several bumper choices. Thanks everyone for sharing info and photos.

It is from Dennis Quella in Castlerock, Colorado. It is what he calls his GTS, no-holes spoiler. He offers it in fiberglass and ABS plastic, I chose the latter for its better flexibility and durability as some driveways will undoubtedly catch it from time to time.

it is basically flat, with rolled edges on its perimeter. Mounting is done by attaching to the front valance through the rolled lip.

I install mine to give 3 1/2 inches of ground clearance. I know of one vendor who finishes the installation with a bead of smoothed black silicone at the spoiler to valance joint, but that is totally unnecessary and adds many hours to the inevitable replacement as plastic hanging from the bottom of the car does not have an indefinite survival quality. I find I typically get five years or so before a replacement is needed.

I believe the cost is currently $125 plus shipping. he will supply a package of small 6-32 nuts and bolts and washers, but I find sheet metal screws to be a better approach.

I have found over the years that fitment is generally pretty good. My placement puts it just at/slightly below the grill opening in the valance. Two screws first in the center and then install three or so screws per side once you have determined the final tilt/angle for the best fitment at the edges of the valance.


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